Disassembly for lower ball-joints replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

i_amnt · #1 11-15-2015, 09:19 AM

My wagon has been up on jacks for too long now! It's really starting to hurt. I am refreshing the front suspension's rubber and ball joints. My only hang-up is that darned lower ball joint. I have the spindle/rotor/upper-arm assembly off and still fully assembled (minus that small arm that attaches for the tie rod joint).

I tried pounding it out with a brass drift and 3 lb hammer, but that really wasn't enough and I couldn't really get a good angle on it anyway. I've read funola's thread on burying that upper arm so the whole thing is upright and taking some good swings at a properly placed large socket. I'd like to give that a try.

I have ordered the magnetic base and digital indicator from HF, so I can properly set up the play when tightening the lock nut.

My question is- Do I need any other special tools to take off the bearing? Can I or should I not reuse them? Is there any other parts in there that should be replaced when stripping the spindle down? Do I even really need to remove the bearings? Who's the OE supplier for the bearings?

I plan on trying out the rentable C-press from autozone/advanced/whichever after I get it out. I've tried my best to search on the matter, but maybe the fact that I've never done anything to any wheel bearing ever is leaving me with a few holes in the puzzle. I have the haynes manual, but I still need to take a look at the FSM's procedure.

vstech · #2 11-15-2015, 09:32 AM

I set the spindle on a wood surface and whack out the ball joint with a large ball peen... Two whacks and it drops out.

vstech · #3 11-15-2015, 09:35 AM

As for the bearings, if they are free of wear, and show zero signs of heating, clean and repack them.

If any wear is found, drive out the races, and reset new ones in, and pack the new ones well, and load up the hub with the thick coating of synthetic lube...

DeliveryValve · #4 11-15-2015, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i_amnt

... I've read funola's thread on burying that upper arm so the whole thing is upright and taking some good swings at a properly placed large socket. I'd like to give that a try.

...

I've used this method a few times now. And I think it is the best way. Better than my bench vice, better than someone holding the knuckle for me and better than supporting the knuckle with some wood.

charmalu · #5 11-15-2015, 10:52 AM

I used Funola`s Red Neck Ball Joint removal method, worked like a charm.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/321615-red-neck-lower-ball-joint-removal.html

I posted this in that thread and copied it.

I used your Redneck removal, and it works perfect. I buried them about the depth you have yours, and had a 1/4" steel plate about 4x4" to drive against in the hole. one took 7 whacks and the other BJ 10 whacks with my Splitting mall. I used a 27mm, the flat against the BJ and a 11/16" inverted to pound on, both impact sockets.

I lucked out my Indy loaned me his MB BJ press. works like a charm. The Lemfoerders slid right in.

It is recommended to replace the lower control arm Bushing with the one for a W126.
Much beefier.

126-330-00-75

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300SD Base Sedan - Suspension, Shocks & Springs - Page 2

Charlie

sent from my pos computer

Diesel911 · #6 11-15-2015, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i_amnt

My wagon has been up on jacks for too long now! It's really starting to hurt. I am refreshing the front suspension's rubber and ball joints. My only hang-up is that darned lower ball joint. I have the spindle/rotor/upper-arm assembly off and still fully assembled (minus that small arm that attaches for the tie rod joint).

I tried pounding it out with a brass drift and 3 lb hammer, but that really wasn't enough and I couldn't really get a good angle on it anyway. I've read funola's thread on burying that upper arm so the whole thing is upright and taking some good swings at a properly placed large socket. I'd like to give that a try.

I have ordered the magnetic base and digital indicator from HF, so I can properly set up the play when tightening the lock nut.

My question is- Do I need any other special tools to take off the bearing? Can I or should I not reuse them? Is there any other parts in there that should be replaced when stripping the spindle down? Do I even really need to remove the bearings? Who's the OE supplier for the bearings?

I plan on trying out the rentable C-press from autozone/advanced/whichever after I get it out. I've tried my best to search on the matter, but maybe the fact that I've never done anything to any wheel bearing ever is leaving me with a few holes in the puzzle. I have the haynes manual, but I still need to take a look at the FSM's procedure.

(Warning not spell checked.)
Funola had a Steel Plate buried in the ground that he rested the end on and buried the rest.
There is other threads on methods of removing the lower Ball Joint.

You could simply take them to an Auto Machine Shop and have the pressed out. Might get a deal from them and also have the new ones pressed in too.

You said you were using a Brass punch/drift. It needs to be pretty thick in diameter like at lease about 1 inch but is better if it is just under the size of what you are punching out. A lot of People use a Socket turned upside down.
For something like the lower Ball Joint it is good to have a hammer with a 2-4 pound head on it and heating the outside with a Propane Torch may help but make it harder to hold onto.

It also could go better if you can get someone to voulenteer to hold it why you hit.

Bearing races can be knocked in and out with brass or somtimes aluminum Punches. You can do it with Steel Punches but you need to be extremly careful and try to tap the race out evenely.

Of couse if the race is no good a steel punch is fine.

Races can be installed with the above mentioned punches but they need to go in as evenly as possible. If you can find a Washer that covers the Race you can use a Socket as the punch or sometims just the Socket.

Diesel911 · #7 11-15-2015, 11:23 AM

If you use the C-press the Boot on the new Ball Joint needs to be removed. Get a big thick washer with an OD that will fit the top of the Ball Joint. You will need to enlarge the hole/inside diameter so it slides over the Ball Joint shaft freely.
The Washer will provide a flat surface for the C-press to contact as on the Lemfoerder Ball Joints the surface s rounded and the C-press wants to shift as you tighten it.
In the attached pic the red arrow points to where I should have put the Washer. Not doing that made the job harder for me.

In another thread someone made a Short Tube that fit over the Joint and allowed the pressing to be done on the outer lip of the Joint as is done with the Klann Press.

i_amnt · #8 11-15-2015, 04:14 PM

After doing the disassembly you see in the below pictures, I grabbed one half of the metal pieces that sit in the LCA to center the guide rod and used that to pound on with my 3 lb hammer. All I did is place the uppermost part of the arm on a black of wood, grab the spindle and take about 6-8 smacks to it and it dropped right out.

What does everyone think of the condition of the races/bearings?

More images in next post...

i_amnt · #9 11-15-2015, 04:23 PM

Looking down from the grease seal side, you can see some gouging close to the outer race.

i_amnt · #10 11-15-2015, 08:25 PM

If I remove the grease seal, will the inner bearing pop right out? I am going to order the MB grease and grease seal, the outer bearing seems fine to me, maybe one had overheated in the past, causing the marks you see on the spindle. But, maybe someone with more experience can enlighten me.

vstech · #11 11-16-2015, 06:00 AM

Yes, the only thing holding the inner bearing in is the grease seal. The inner RACE will still need to be driven out with a drift...

I use the spindle nut to pop out the bearing and grease seal in one shot...

Stretch · #12 11-16-2015, 06:09 AM

Just in case you're wondering - now is the time to replace both of the wheel bearings.

ngarover · #13 11-16-2015, 07:50 AM

x2 on replace the wheel bearings... they are cheap and your already halfway done.

I have the correct press to put the ball joints back in. Bought it new to do mine. Will let you use it for free if you pay for shipping both ways and a deposit (350). I will refund deposit when I get tool back. Message me if you need it. It's a heavy tool, I'm guessing shipping would be around 15-20 bucks. I can bring it into town with me tomorrow and check over at UPS.

funola · #14 11-16-2015, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by i_amnt

.............
I tried pounding it out with a brass drift and 3 lb hammer, but that really wasn't enough and I couldn't really get a good angle on it anyway. I've read funola's thread on burying that upper arm so the whole thing is upright and taking some good swings at a properly placed large socket. I'd like to give that a try..............

Shoot a video and post a link if you try my method. Don't forget a 4"x 4" steel plate or similar for support otherwise it may not work. It's very satisfying pounding the snot out of the rusted-in BJ and see it plob off onto the dirt.

Don't forget to mark the steel plate location if you leave it buried for future use. I didn't mark mine and only know the general location. I do not have a metal detector and will probably use a drill with a long skinny rod to find it when I need to use it again.

Diesel911 · #15 11-16-2015, 11:45 AM

[QUOTE=vstech;3541298]Yes, the only thing holding the inner bearing in is the grease seal. The inner RACE will still need to be driven out with a drift...

I use the spindle nut to pop out the bearing and grease seal in one shot...[/QUOTE]

I know what you are speaking of because I have seen it done before. How about a better description for someone that has never seen it done before..

Also I believe that with the Mercedes Spindle Nut it is possible to damage the outer bearing race if the Nut hits the race.