Little confusion on my 300SD driveshaft. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #16 11-26-2015, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clemson88

...
How about them Clemson Tigers!!!

Not bad now they fix cars too!

Clemson88 · #17 12-04-2015, 03:38 AM

I have the drive shaft in place.

On the flex disk to yoke assembly I put the washer in the wrong place. Instead of with the allen head of the bolts/screws they are with the hex nuts.

I have not put the exhaust cover or exhaust pipe back on the car yet? I have put the transmission mount back on.

Just how big a deal is this? Of course this is the new type of flex disk but those bolt heads are smaller than the nuts. Some of the heads are bearing on the disk and some bear on the yoke. One set bears on the vibration damper too.

I don't want to take the nuts off because the maintenance manual calls for new ones. It suggest they can be used only once. It's going to be a pita to replace them, I'll have to order new ones from the dealership.

vstech · #18 12-04-2015, 06:59 AM

... The washers don't go against a specific part of the bolt/nut combo... The washer ALWAYS goes against the flex disc, not against the flange.
The purpose of the washer is to evenly seat the cylinder into the yoke socket.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clemson88

I have the drive shaft in place.

On the flex disk to yoke assembly I put the washer in the wrong place. Instead of with the allen head of the bolts/screws they are with the hex nuts.

I have not put the exhaust cover or exhaust pipe back on the car yet? I have put the transmission mount back on.

Just how big a deal is this? Of course this is the new type of flex disk but those bolt heads are smaller than the nuts. Some of the heads are bearing on the disk and some bear on the yoke. One set bears on the vibration damper too.

I don't want to take the nuts off because the maintenance manual calls for new ones. It suggest they can be used only once. It's going to be a pita to replace them, I'll have to order new ones from the dealership.

SD Blue · #19 12-04-2015, 09:24 AM

How big a deal is it? That is up to you. The washer goes against the flex disc where the "flexing" occurs, even if it is ever so slight.

After going through the ordeal of severe vibration issues when a shop that "knew how to do it" replaced the carrier bearing for me, I sure wouldn't want to take that risk. I literally had to do the entire job over again. New flex discs, carrier bearing, bearing mount, centering bushings and universal joint.

With all the frustration I encountered, It's one area I would definitely be sure and dot every "i" and cross every "t" of the details. Then again, you may get away with that small compromise but I didn't want to.

The most critical areas (41-050) are the orientation of the vibration dampner to the flange (step 15) and the fitting of the flex disc inserts to the flange (steps 16 &17). Also, do the final tightening the bearing carrier mount bolts (7a) and drive shaft gland nut (3) after the car is on all four wheels. (Some have recommended a little of driving it backward and forward some to get the length of the driveshaft to adjust.)

Clemson88 · #20 12-04-2015, 11:34 AM

Ok, I'm redoing it today. Should I buy new bolts and nuts for the flex disk or are those going to be OK to use twice. It's been less than 24 hours since I torqued them.

SD Blue · #21 12-04-2015, 11:42 AM

I reused mine once and applied red threadlock. My thinking was that much more than that could cause issues due to how that style of nut "locks".

Clemson88 · #22 12-04-2015, 01:10 PM

Thank you, SD BLue, sir. I'll let folks know how this worked out when the newness of having my old car wears off enough to let me get back on the internet.

Clemson88 · #23 12-10-2015, 05:04 AM

Gentlemen, I've finished. I hadn't covered the drive shaft so changing the bolts wasn't such a nightmare. I just removed the bolts, moved the washers to bear on the flex disk and replaced the bolts. I did these one at a time so nothing could move and mess with the balance of the shafts. I used a drop of blue thread locker on each bolt so I expect no problem.

Gentlemen, this thing has clunked and banged for no less than five years. I want to thank Whunter and the other mods and professionals who contribute information and assistance on this forum. Your work here has not gone unnoticed nor unappreciated.

Stretch · #24 12-10-2015, 07:19 AM

I'm glad to hear Roy's still about behind the scenes (he hasn't posted in this thread yet) - it is a shame he's too busy to be as involved as he was.

Clemson88 · #25 12-11-2015, 06:21 AM

Stretch, I drove it around Greenville, SC last night. It's smooth but there's still somewhat of a hard shift. It doesn't clunk or vibrate that I can tell though I only took it to 40 or 45 MPH.

I'd imagine the previous owner or his tech played with the bowden cable a bit before I got it. You know how this goes, you work and work and never seem to finish.

I'm guessing the vacuum system check is going to be the first step in getting the shifting back to factory smooth, right?

Stretch · #26 12-11-2015, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clemson88

Stretch, I drove it around Greenville, SC last night. It's smooth but there's still somewhat of a hard shift. It doesn't clunk or vibrate that I can tell though I only took it to 40 or 45 MPH.

I'd imagine the previous owner or his tech played with the bowden cable a bit before I got it. You know how this goes, you work and work and never seem to finish.

I'm guessing the vacuum system check is going to be the first step in getting the shifting back to factory smooth, right?

Well I know the feeling - fix one thing to find fault with the next!

Vacuum could be your problem but before you go adjusting stuff make some measurements.

Also use the old Mk1 eye ball to check for obvious trouble such as the throttle linkages and the Bowden cable

Learning from the experience of others on the forum I would no longer underestimate the effect of new fluid and a new filter. There's a nice thread I'll try and dig out that shows before and after (fluid and filter change) hydraulic pressure measurements...

Stretch · #27 12-11-2015, 06:44 AM

...and here we go - steeleygreg was the man!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/350099-240d-potential-transmission-failure.html

(Bit of a long read but worth it - and OK the data isn't quite what you need but if you don't have it I can pass it along)

Clemson88 · #28 12-11-2015, 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

...and here we go - steeleygreg was the man!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/350099-240d-potential-transmission-failure.html

(Bit of a long read but worth it - and OK the data isn't quite what you need but if you don't have it I can pass it along)

Actually, I've had the filter for the transmission for years. I made a fairly good review of the shift problems before I started 'fixing,' the hard shift. I've replace all the vacuum pods under the dash when I replaced the interior a couple of years ago. Actually, I missed the pod behind the climate control panel, what an idiot, right?

I'm not about to jump on that one until I've changed the fluid and filter in the tranny and gone through the proper steps to check the vacuum. Start with the vacuum pump and work toward the dash, right?