On my car, I don't think I can change the pods behind the glove box, but I'll take a look.

Barring that, I wonder if there's another way to change those. I heard the dashboard has to be taken completely out. I think I would drill a big hole in the firewall before doing that if that was prudent. No way I'm taking the dash out.

1991 300d, 202k

You'd have to take a ton of stuff out of the way to get to where you could cut the firewall to get to the pods. Pulling the dash isn't difficult, just tedious and time consuming.

Sixto
83 300SD

I agree with sixto. It isn't a bad job, at least it is clean. I was changing the windshield at the same time, so it made it much easier to cut out with no dash in the way.

As well as the leaking pods, a common problem is cracked solder joints in the vacuum solenoid bank that activates the pods (located behind the glove compartment). Later 124's could be diassembled easily (screwed together) but earlier ones were sealed. I cut a few open and glued back together but then picked up a couple at the wrecker from a '94 and '95. All had bad solder connections.

If you have to remove the dash, replace all pods that cannot be accessed without removing it even if they check OK. It's too big a job to do more than once.

The dash board on a 124 is super easy to remove.

The procedure is in the factory service manual (http://w124-zone.com/downloads/MB%20CD/W124/w124CD2/Program/Chassis/68-100.pdf) but it goes something like this:
- lift carpet in passenger foot well, unplug red air bag maintenance connector (and disconnect the battery).
- remove steering wheel, captive T20 screws behind wheel need to be loosened about 10 turns, airbag drops out, unplug, set away from car with MB logo facing UP. Now with a 10 mm Allen socket and a breaker bar, have a helper hold back on wheel (put key in I position so you don't destroy the lock) and loosen big bolt in wheel hub. Remove bolt and make a witness mark between the hub and shaft then pull off wheel.
- remove lower dash cover on drivers side. First remove screws from hood latch and e-brake handles, slide out, undo cables (works like a bicycle brake lever).
- if you have a passenger air bag, get a 10 mm on about a 12 inch extension. Look up under the dash there is a big hole pointing up. Put your ratchet up there and remove the bolt. Pull out the passenger air bag, unplug, set aside. No airbag, the glove box can stay intact.
- remove light switch knob (pull hard)
- remove big nut holding light switch
- remove black trim pieces left and right of steering column (friction fit)
- remove bolt on left side of dash and the retention bracket.
- carefully pry up the trim strips on the speaker covers. Go slow they are brittle from years of sun. Remove two small Phillips screws and lift off the speaker covers.
- lay a folded towel over the speakers, at the edge of the speaker pry up to release the spring clip. Lift out and unplug speakers.
- remove A pillar trim, they are clipped to pinch weld, peel back rubber molding and carefully pry off.
- use a 4 mm hex key to loosen the bolt inside the center vents. This detaches the linkage from the "Oreo" wheel.
- remove the gauge cluster - friction fit, it just pushes out from behind or use hook tools, and unplug
- remove center vent assembly, screws at each end and then lift locking tabs in corners with pick, slide out carefully.
- remove ash tray housing (screws beneath ash bucket) and unplug
- remove wood panel around gear shift (lift carpet in tray, 1 screw, pull up, slide back)
- remove radio
- remove wood over climate controls (2 angled screws at bottom above radio)
- remove climate control/switch assembly, unplug climate control, separate switches from climate control, (leave switch assembly plugged in)
- remove 2 nuts holding dash to console
- remove bolts in speaker areas
- remove bolts behind trim around steering wheel

Ok now all the fasteners should be loose. With a helper carefully lift and rotate the leading edge so it clears the defroster ducts. Work carefully over the studs connecting the dash and console. There are lights in the wing vents and the light switch that need to be popped out (clipped in to the plastic) and the air sampling blower behind the passenger knee space.

Once everything is free then carefully ease it out the passenger door.

It sounds intimidating but it really is not that bad. I've done it about a half dozen times. Getting ready to do this again, found a dash from a 90s model with the passenger air bag that I am going to transfer into my 87 along with the interlocked gear shift. That involves stripping the interior from the b-pillars forward to exchange the wiring harness for the air bags, pre tensioners, and seat belt interlocks.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Is the 124 horribly different from the 123 or 126? The pods can be removed from those cars wit the dash installed. Tunnel carpet has to come out for some and glove box for others.

Dash removal isn't difficult. There are vids on youtube. Take pics and you'll put it back together easier.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

YES, there is major variation of design and assembly.
The W124 is TWO generations newer.

.

__________________
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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
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Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

The '90s 124s with the passenger airbag is a bigger pain.

However, I never remove the steering wheel when I pull a 124 dash, just telescope it all the way out first. It's about a 2hour job.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Great diy writeup thanks very much for taking the time to write it up! When you do the passenger side air bag installation please do a writeup on that upgrade as i would like to that on my 87 wagon,been thinking about it for quite a while but have not brave enough yet.

__________________
Red Green "This is only temporary,Unless it works!"

97 E300D 157000 miles
87 300TD ?141k? miles

It's in this thread by fellow member pwogaman, he inspired me to do this.

Hope to get to it later this week.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/321601-1987-300td-w124-wagon-dc-impound-auction-$450-ends-07-18-2012.html

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Not all 124s have telescoping steering, usually packaged with leather and memory, but you can remove the cluster without removing the non-telescoping steering wheel.

Sixto
83 300SD