Newer design tie rod end/ball joint removal tool?

[HuskyMan]

According to the drawings, does it appear that this tool would work on a W123 to remove lower ball joints and/or tie rod ends?

http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Mercedes-Audi-Auto-Mechanics/dp/B018CBCNGC/ref=sr_1_34?ie=UTF8&qid=1453387761&sr=8-34&keywords=mercedes+ball+joint+tool

drawings including tool dimensions:

http://www.zdmak.com/8302.pdf

[funola]

Originally Posted by HuskyMan

According to the drawings, does it appear that this tool would work on a W123 to remove lower ball joints and/or tie rod ends?

http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Mercedes-Audi-Auto-Mechanics/dp/B018CBCNGC/ref=sr_1_34?ie=UTF8&qid=1453387761&sr=8-34&keywords=mercedes+ball+joint+tool

drawings including tool dimensions:

http://www.zdmak.com/8302.pdf

Just from looking at it, I say no, but ymmv. Buy and try then let us know. There are 2 known tools that works that I know of. The Mercedes tool and the OTC 8149. Maybe a third tool that works can be added to the list?

[Zacharias]

It looks a bit like the OTC tool Funola references, for removing tie rod ends, which does a great job. It doesn't look as well made, however. The OTC item is a serious bit of kit, as the Brits would say.

If by any chance you are trying to find a way to replace a w123 ball joint with the steering knuckle in place, it can't be done as there is no room to use a press to install the new one.

One note: there is a third style of balljoint installation tool, which looks like a piece of pipe with a section cut out. It is designed to be used in a press. It has been reviewed positively on this forum. Can be found on eBay, but last I looked there was a typo in the header... says w213 balljoint tool.

[Air&Road]

You probably have the best tie rod tool already in your tool box.

Loosen the nut on the tie rod stud and leave it on with a few threads. Swing a big hammer with some wrist action striking the end of the member that has the female tapered hole that the tapered stud fits into. This will momentarrily shrink the taper forcing out the stud. The nut is left on because the stud comes flying out so hard that it could hurt someone or some thing.

I don't know how many tie rods I have pulled with this method over the years, bit it has been a lot. I have only resorted to a pickle fork a few times out of all of them. The hammer method is particularly useful in cases where you want to reuse the tie rod end and the boot.

Try it. You'll like it.

[mannys9130]

I've tried the hammer method and I have not had good luck on cars with old parts, or corroded parts. It usually ends up that I need to resort to a pickle fork, puller, or an air chisel.

[Air&Road]

It takes a big hammer and lots of wrist action, but has rarely failed me.

I was at an MB club event about 20 years or so ago. It was at a wrecking yard in Fort Worth. The owner had several dozen MB's in a roped off area. The club members were given a Saturday morning to remove and keep any parts they could remove. I got several things and was trying to help other folks. There were a couple of Baylor college professors that had come up from Waco that were getting 126 parts. They were trying to get a steering box from a 300SD which had no hood and no engine. It had been setting in the weather a LONG time.

They could not get the end out of the pitman arm and were asking if anyone had a puller while standing with a hammer in hand. They appeared quite doubtful when I told them they did have a puller. I described what I did above and they were still doubtful. With plenty of room for a good hammer swing, I made one good wrist hinged blow in the end of the pitman arm and it shot out of there as if gunpowder were involved.

A 2 pound hammer with a practiced wrist action will get them out with one blow almost every time. No wrist action though and it won't work.

BTW, the second year of this affair, some people came that were shop owners and picked the place clean to take the parts for profit. The owner ended the event once that happened and I really didn't blame him. There always seems to be a greedy person that will mess up a good thing.

[Zulfiqar]

The point to be noted here is "wrist action" - a long time ago I was pretty useless with a hammer until a carpenter (freind's dad) showed me how to use a hammer correctly.

The trick to pop a ball joint with the hammer is that you need to strike in a way that there should be a lot of meat on the other side of the eye, the "lot of meat" will act like a spring and pop the joint out. If there is nothing there then put a large hammer to aid you. Hit in a way that no energy is lost in vibration of rubber parts.

[Diesel911]

Here is the thread on the OTC Tool. Note don't confuse the JTC Tool which is for removing and insalling the Ball Joint into the Knuckle and the OTC Tool that is only for seperating the Ball Joint from the Lower Control arm.

Note that the OTC 8149 is actually a Pitman Arm Puller. So you may or may not be able to use it on other Vehicles.
Also Snap-on has a tool that lookds the same but is made in the USA.

Also note that OTC makes 2 Pitman Arm Pullers that look similar but one is larer then the other. Only the smaller one works on a W123.

And, as noted you need to disconnect the upper Ball Joint from the upper control arm. If the Hammer Method does not work that will take a different Tool.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/323469-lower-ball-joint-separator-w123.html

Other useful info:
Ball Joint LCA removal regular tools TUBE BALL JOINT TOOL JTC
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=179284&highlight=JTC
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/179284-write-up-ball-joints-lower-control-arm-bushings-tool-review-pics.html

[funola]

Taking a closer look at the OTC 8149, it has a flat shelf on the lower jaw, flat is necessary to fit the lower control arm. The one you are asking about will definitely not fit due the ramp on the lower jaw.

[Junkman]

So far separating from the LCA has been easy. Sometimes a BFH takes the ball joint out of the steering knuckle. Other times not so good.

What removes the ball joint from the knuckle? What installs the ball joint?

[vstech]

the referenced tool has a flat section. the taper is only for strength...

it may work on tie rods, but certainly not for the ball joint.

[BillGrissom]

Junkman,
There are several posts w/ photos if you search, particularly funola's "Redneck ball joint ...". You must remove the spindle (knuckle to truck guys) from the car. Most people flip the spindle over and beat the ball joint out using a large framing hammer. Most re-install using a large ball joint C-press like you can free rent from Autozone or buy at Harbor Freight. To use a shop press, you need a special tubular adapter (ebay, not cheap).

[mannys9130]

I have had the hammer trick work as intended a few times, but since I'm a professional I've seen it done several ways and I have done it several ways. A puller that's proper beats everything. Try the puller, if it struggles I buzz the part once with an air chisel and it comes off, no physical exertion needed. I like to work smart, not hard.

[HuskyMan]

Originally Posted by vstech

the referenced tool has a flat section. the taper is only for strength...

it may work on tie rods, but certainly not for the ball joint.

Would the taper prohibit the referenced tool prohibit it from working on the lower ball joint(s) on a W123?

I trust your opinion on these matters; therefore if the referenced tool wouldn't work due to the taper design it would seem the OTC tool would be the best one to purchase for this particular job.