OM617 Raise Up ? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ROLLGUY · #16 01-30-2016, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

No, once you cut the rubber portion of the hose off, the hard lines just slip right out - weld (braze) on the fittings and you're done.

So you are saying that even though the metal lines still need to come out, and eventually go back in, it is much easier to remove and install with them not having that extra section (rubber hose and fittings)?

funola · #17 01-30-2016, 01:52 PM

On the motor mount, you removed one big bolt from the bottom and 2 small bolts from up top? If so, the engine should lift. If it doesn't, you'll have to go around and look what's hanging it up since no one else can help you unless they are there in person. If it lifted 1/8", you should be able to slip a post card under the motor mount.

When I replaced my motor mounts, I did ones side at a time. I did undo the throttle linkage and the engine shocks.. I recall there was a post that warned against removing both motor mounts at the same time that you may have problems lining up the holes afterwards. Removing all 3 mounts (2 motor 1 transmission) at the same time is a big no no, you will have most certainly have problems lining up the holes from what I've read.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

Thanx All !

.

This is why I'm confuddled .

I removed the bolts from both motor mounts and the shocks too , the engine still won't go up more than 1/8" .

I bet I didn't remove the horizontal throttle linkage shaft but that souldn't hold the engine from raising up...

I've done this on several W-123's with OM617's before , it's a laborious and oily but not terribly difficult .

I replaced the upper hose back when I bought the car , this is the Euro. Spec. 7 passenger wagon you alls found for me , it came with a holed upper oil hose , I replaced it , it began weeping where the cooler end is crimped so I bought both new and am stuck .

I'm able to lift the car off the safety stands by jacking the engine , rocking the engine when it's raised has no effect , I don't want to stand on those delicate tin foil Euro. bumpers and ruin them .

ROLLGUY · #18 01-30-2016, 02:44 PM

I agree about NOT removing the bolts from motor and trans mounts all at once. However, it is not a big deal to remove both mount bolts and be able to get everything lined up, I do it all the time. The arms and mounts are made in such a way that they want to center themselves with the weight of the engine. If they are a little off, a tapered punch works well to gently line the arm up with the hole in the mount.

t walgamuth · #19 01-30-2016, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I know that on some engines (OM616?), there is another mount in the center under the oil pan, and rear of the crossmember. That would be the only thing that I know of that would keep the engine from raising if the two motor mount bolts are removed.

I think that is 240 only.

mach4 · #20 01-30-2016, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

So you are saying that even though the metal lines still need to come out, and eventually go back in, it is much easier to remove and install with them not having that extra section (rubber hose and fittings)?

That's correct....at least as I've been led to believe. As you know my configuration is a bit different, but I remember removing the lines from a 617 in an SD chassis in the junk yard no problem.

If the lines are bad anyway it's no biggie to cut the hoses to double check.

Junkman · #21 01-30-2016, 10:24 PM

I converted to braided cooler lines on an 84SD. I thought one of the metal lines would never come out or go back in. It was a huge pita even with the rubber section cut out. I don't remember working with the entire hose that I didn't convert to AN being as difficult.

There is a cross member that may be holding the engine. I don't remember whether the cross member is bolted to anything except the floor. Completely removing the rubber part of the engine mount and the entire engine shock was my final strategy. Having all out of the way and jacking the engine up to max height saved a lot of messing around.

Clean the threads and install the motor mounts loosely to get all of the bolts started. You want the bolts with hex heads to go in easy. They would be real trouble if the head stripped. Replace if ANY doubt regarding the integrity of the head.

Hickster · #22 01-31-2016, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

There is of course the braided stainless oil lines and AN fittings solution that requires no jacking at all.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/354554-converting-oil-cooler-lines-stainless-braided-hose.html

You'll never sweat an oil line change again.

I must have missed this before, tremendous work here. Thank you.

Stretch · #23 01-31-2016, 08:29 AM

One thing comes to mind =>

Earth lead - can keep in "on the ground"!

{ha ha - good joke - oh I crack myself up}

Maxbumpo · #24 01-31-2016, 09:01 AM

Euro - may have the third "engine stop" mount at the very front of the engine. See the FSM.

vwnate1 · #25 01-31-2016, 12:29 PM

Yes , this is a European version . late 1984 300TD with turbo and almost every other option you can imagine .

Any chance of a picture of this additional front motor mount ? . (please)

I cannot articulate how much I appreciate the out pouring of helpful ideas ! .

I got back to it yesterday , yes , I thought I should be able to at least slip a bit of paper between the left support and the top of the motor mount but I couldn't so I got some 6 MM Allen wrenches and removed the left side mount and then I was able to remove the alloy support and the upper oil hose .

Then I spent a few hours cleaning all the various parts (this car has the two piece bash plate) and the engine , inner fenderwells and after a time of looking at it , a goodly bit of the unibody because well just because ~ I don't like dirty machinery and this is my best looking car .

As long as I had the incredible mess going I " polished the cement " (my Brother's disgusted comment) cleaned most of the driveway as I'll be back at it and lying on the cement on my back as soon as this damned rain stops .

Another Mercedes Club Friend mentioned he'd found the OM616 cross member bracket on his parts car 240D , I didn't realize it's an OM616 only item and looked long and hard for it....

.

I'm not sure how I get the mounts and supports back in but for now I have made good progress and I see this thread is generating good discussion , I think you all !

.

ROLLGUY · #26 01-31-2016, 12:37 PM

The engine mount in question is pretty obvious if your car is equipped with one. Although I believe as someone said this mount is found on only 240D's, your car being Euro may be an exception. Just look behind the engine crossmember on the bottom of the oil pan (upper aluminum casting, not the steel lower pan). If it is there, you now know why your engine won't raise up. If not, I have no idea why......Rich

spdrun · #27 01-31-2016, 12:41 PM

Instead of brazing on new fittings, can't you also cut the crimps holding the rubber lines to the metal nipps and get new rubber or oil hose, then crimp or clamp those on (with good quality t-bolt clamps that won't extrude the rubber over time)?

Oil pressure doesn't exceed 100 psi or so, so this is child's play for any hydraulic hose rated for correct temperature to handle.

Oil hose:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3491&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=3491&gclid=CJm78YTS1MoCFcMRHwodjGADsA

ROLLGUY · #28 01-31-2016, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spdrun

Instead of brazing on new fittings, can't you also cut the crimps holding the rubber lines to the metal and get new rubber hydraulic lines, then crimp or clamp those on?

I have done this many times, but some folks would rather replace the entire line with factory spec parts. To each his/her own.

spdrun · #29 01-31-2016, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I have done this many times, but some folks would rather replace the entire line with factory spec parts. To each his/her own.

Not sure why if the replacement flex hose meets the specs needed. The repair should be as (or more) durable than the original, since materials have got better in 30 years. I'm not recommending an inferior repair, but an equally good one that should last as long as the original tubing.

vwnate1 · #30 01-31-2016, 08:24 PM

Thanx , I am quite sure there's no such third engine mount on my car but I'll be underneath it again as soon as things dry out here ~ it rained all day , I did pop the hood to look at how well I'd cleaned it up , things look very nice now .

As far as which way to repair it , after you're working on vehicles for 5 decades you learn when to change and when to follow stock .