OM617 Raise Up ? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vwnate1 · #1 01-30-2016, 02:21 AM

I'm trying to jack up the engine on my 1984 300TD Turbo so i can remove the left side engine support and replace the leaking oil cooler hoses but can't seem to find some hidden thing that's holding the engine in place after disconnecting motor mounts and tiny shock absorbers....

I only need it to raise up 1" or so and have done this before , I guess I've forgotten some detail .

Any ideas or diagrams to help here ? .

TIA ,

Alec300SD · #2 01-30-2016, 02:35 AM

This should be of assistance.

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/617/22-211.pdf

Happy wrenching!

vwnate1 · #3 01-30-2016, 02:45 AM

Nope~ I did all that and when I raise up the engine with the trolly jack and a slab of heavy plywood , the whole car goes up off the jack stands

.

I must be missing something else , the fan isn't touching anything .

More suggestions please .

Alec300SD · #4 01-30-2016, 03:30 AM

The FSM usually is accurate, but I've never worked on a wagon.

Maybe dmorrison's method of removing the left engine mount off the block will be an easier way to allow removal of the oilcooler lines?

He has excellent instructions on Post #1 from this 2003 thread.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/63495-joys-sorrows-removing-oil-cooler-lines.html#post390718

Hopefully helpful?

Deplore · #5 01-30-2016, 04:14 AM

Are you sure you unscrewed both motor mounts?

Otherwise, jack it up a bit until the car goes up, then jump on the front clip and use your weight to break whatever crud that is holding the engine to the motormounts.

mannys9130 · #6 01-30-2016, 10:35 AM

Unbolt both motor mounts completely, unbolt the trans mount, and jack up the engine. Jack it up and when the car seems like it's going up, just keep going. The body will rise as the weight is lifted off it. After a few inches, the engine will come up off the body.

vwnate1 · #7 01-30-2016, 10:40 AM

Thanx All !

.

This is why I'm confuddled .

I removed the bolts from both motor mounts and the shocks too , the engine still won't go up more than 1/8" .

I bet I didn't remove the horizontal throttle linkage shaft but that souldn't hold the engine from raising up...

I've done this on several W-123's with OM617's before , it's a laborious and oily but not terribly difficult .

I replaced the upper hose back when I bought the car , this is the Euro. Spec. 7 passenger wagon you alls found for me , it came with a holed upper oil hose , I replaced it , it began weeping where the cooler end is crimped so I bought both new and am stuck .

I'm able to lift the car off the safety stands by jacking the engine , rocking the engine when it's raised has no effect , I don't want to stand on those delicate tin foil Euro. bumpers and ruin them .

t walgamuth · #8 01-30-2016, 11:09 AM

Look closely at your motor mounts....perhaps someone put an extra bolt through. Also look at the transmission mount....engine could be bound up against the body at the fire wall? Just wild guesses....this is an odd occurance I think.

ROLLGUY · #9 01-30-2016, 11:11 AM

I know that on some engines (OM616?), there is another mount in the center under the oil pan, and rear of the crossmember. That would be the only thing that I know of that would keep the engine from raising if the two motor mount bolts are removed.

mach4 · #10 01-30-2016, 11:23 AM

There is of course the braided stainless oil lines and AN fittings solution that requires no jacking at all.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/354554-converting-oil-cooler-lines-stainless-braided-hose.html

You'll never sweat an oil line change again.

Alec300SD · #11 01-30-2016, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

Thanx All !

.

I bet I didn't remove the horizontal throttle linkage shaft but that souldn't hold the engine from raising up...

.

When I changed my engine mounts on my first MB, an 83 W123 300D Turbo Diesel, I got stuck at that point as well.

You do need to remove the horizontal throttle linkage and also the plastic air cleaner pipe. (Step #3 & #4 in the FSM write-up). Otherwise it will bind when you attempt to lift the engine.

Good luck on changing the oil lines.

ROLLGUY · #12 01-30-2016, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

There is of course the braided stainless oil lines and AN fittings solution that requires no jacking at all.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/354554-converting-oil-cooler-lines-stainless-braided-hose.html

You'll never sweat an oil line change again.

Yes, but does this method require the removal (to weld on the fittings) and replacement of the metal sections of the line? If so, Nate still has a problem.

ROLLGUY · #13 01-30-2016, 11:39 AM

Although I don't have a photo, I have replaced the rubber sections only, without removing the metal parts of the oil lines. I used a small grinder to slit the sleeves of the lines, and replace the rubber sections with 5/8 hydraulic hose and A/C worm gear clamps. The car is still on the road (my niece drives it), and no leaks from the hoses.

Dan Stokes · #14 01-30-2016, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Yes, but does this method require the removal (to weld on the fittings) and replacement of the metal sections of the line? If so, Nate still has a problem.

Though I don't run an oil cooler I do have a loop of line between the 2 connections as I was a bit concerned that blocking the oil cooler lines would mess up the oil flow thru the engine. Anyhow, I took the factory fittings to the Parker store and they matched up the factory-style fitting ends so the AN hose adaptors (as shown in Mach4's pic) simply screw into the factory components. Piece o' cake - no welding required. I'm pretty sure I could simply unscrew my jumper hose and add longer hoses and a cooler if I find that necessary with the new IP.

Dan

mach4 · #15 01-30-2016, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Yes, but does this method require the removal (to weld on the fittings) and replacement of the metal sections of the line? If so, Nate still has a problem.

No, once you cut the rubber portion of the hose off, the hard lines just slip right out - weld (braze) on the fittings and you're done.