Is $1000 a fair price for a 1975 4-sped manual 240D that is running fairly well (no crazy smoke or funny sounds on acceleration)? 192K (maybe more if odometer rolled over twice) Bad News: Surface rust in trunk under mat and on floor boards in rear floor. Some rust in driver rear quarter panel. But no holes that i could find. Run as far away as possible or roll the dice? I'm trying to convince myself that even if the rust is worse than I think, a running W115 diesel is still at least worth the price? Having tough time finding comp on what this car is worth in various conditions.

Appreciate any thoughts.

Thanks
George

Does it idle smoothly?

If so and it drives nice and smoothly it sounds ok on the price.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Did the 115 use the asphalt sound deadening like the 123?

If so I would check very carefully for rust between the layers.

You could definitely have an asphalt-rust-asphalt crap sandwich situation here.

If the body is sound it could be a neat project, if it turns out to be a dog, you could probably make it back by parting it out.

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

Sounds like a fun way to cruise down Michigan Ave. in the Summer. You and I live in the Midwest...there will always be rust. As long as there isn't a ring of orange around the entire car where it sits...as in dripping rust...just plan on dealing with it as it rears its ugly head.

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'89 260e (212K Mi.), '92 400e (208K Mi.), '92 400e (not a misprint) (146K Mi.), '95 C220, '81 240D--Sold

Yes, it is a fair price. $1000+/-$200 seems to be the going rate for w115s with some rust issues here in CA. I paid $800 for a rusty gasser W114 simply for its interior and a few others bits and pieces. I gave away the engine and chassis after I had what I needed. And the guy who took the engine/chassis sold the engine for $1000. So buying a functional car for $1000 seems reasonable to me.

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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission.
My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear).

Depending on where you live or the car was driven. A rust inspection up on the hoist is not that bad of an ideal on the 115 type bodies. They can be serious rust buckets. Even check carefully around the steering box.

This does not mean all of them are of course.

For a W115 with noticeable rust holes I don't know that I would pay more than $500. They are just not that desirable. I've seen near perfect ones in the $2000 range that would be a much better starting point. However if you want to play with a welder and see what you can do, make a low offer and go from there....

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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold