Engine Stand Thread - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Dan Stokes · #1 03-04-2016, 09:56 PM

I posted earlier that I picked up a back-up engine for Mutt the Race Truck (OM617) "just in case". ImBroke took good care of me.

So how do I want to mount this on a stand given the hassles I had doing the rear main seal on the current engine? I bought another Harbor Freight 4 wheel stand (I had great luck with the previous one) but the standard rear-mount is a bit of a pain when working on the engine, especially working in the rear area. I was reminded of a HUGE OTC stand we had at EPA for heavy duty Diesels and my little brain got to hummin'.

Here's pics:

1) Mounted "as usual" from the rear. Besides impeding rear access, some of the guys worried that the rear intermediate plate might not be strong enough to hold the engine over time. Note the box to hold bits and pieces from the engine.

2) What's this? Explanation to follow.

3) Mounted. I made the mount plate from a 4"X3 1/2" piece of 1/4 plate - note the notch to clear a bump on the FI pump. The piece of heavy square tube is 8" long. This is 1 1/2" but I'd suggest 2" if you had to buy any but this hunk was scrap just lying around the shop. Note that I gussetted the heck out of the joints. The gussets were just angles I had left from other projects - in fact, it's all made out of scrap. Yes, I painted it as always for me.

4) Note lack of rear obstructions.

Given that I'm not the world's best weldor I carefully let down the cherry picker and shook the engine violently. Nothing moved, groaned, or creaked so I decided all was well. The stand seems plenty stable with an engine mounted sideways to "normal".

Dan

wstetson3 · #2 03-05-2016, 02:45 PM

Thanks for the post!!!

I will be pulling my 617 turbo to keep as a spare for my N/A 617 CD. I got a nice 4 wheel stand and had planned on mounting it as most would normally do, then adding a brace under it to help support the weight. I would love to get input on anything I would need to worry about as well. I'm not a welder so I can't readily fabricate anything like you have done there but it looks interesting. Mine will be on the stand for some time. Until the N/A quits or I get out of 617 powered cars. I was going to sell it but it doesn't seem to be worth much and I figure if I need one I would have a known good motor available. Any tips on long term storage? Others suggested a citrus flush and something in the cylinders for long term storage.

BillGrissom · #3 03-05-2016, 04:36 PM

Good idea and good you are using the better 4-wheel stand. I had an OM617 on the cheaper 3 wheel stand and tipped it over. But, I was working to get the front crank bolt out and I had locked the crank at the rear flex plate using a hook, which sprung loose and the rebound tipped it over. I also had it upright and centered on the crank axis which makes it much more top-heavy. Since then, I jam a thick chisel in between damper & block to lock the crank (just like the manual shows!) and will beef up my stand, or get another, if I ever work on another OM617 or one of my V-8's. No damage from hitting the ground and I still move fast.

Dan Stokes · #4 03-05-2016, 05:15 PM

I learned to shy away from the 3 wheeled stands after having one of my Chevy 250" sixes on mine. They simply are wobbly. The longer the engine the wobblier the stand will act.

I also have a 4 wheeled gear head stand but I try not to use that for engine storage as it's just TOO cool for working on an engine so I want it available.

Either way, the side mount works pretty well. Any welding shop could whip one up for the price of some scrap steel - I'd suggest the local trade school. I started on the mount plate with a 3 1/2" x 4" piece of 1/4" plate. I just laid it out using the base of the factory mount as a template - the engine studs fit perfectly. Eight inches of 1 1/2" or 2" square tube and a piece of plate that fits the engine stand plate (mine was 8" x 10", again 1/4" plate) drilled to match the engine stand plate. Add some gussets and paint and you're home free.

Bet there's a trade school near you or maybe a friend with a big enough MIG (it'll need to handle 1/4" plate - mine's 190 amps IIRC) and you're there. Believe me, I'm no weldor either!

As far as pickleing the engine - some oil into the bores is a really good idea. Spray some in the injector holes (you'll need new injector seals when you put it back in service) and spin the engine over by hand a rev or two. It's a good idea to spin it over from time to time as it sits and you could even add a little oil when you think of it. DON"T use traditional (blue can) WD40! It displaces water really well but it does not leave behind any lasting film. Croil, Sea Foam, or others are mostly oil and leave a film behind. WD40 has come out with a new line of products and some of those may contain oil - check the can. I've never done anything with the crankcase and haven't had any issues. The bottom end of engines get thoroughly oil soaked in a few thousand miles and it penetrates ALL of the materials down there so as long as it's stored out of the weather it should be OK.

Dan

gatorblue92 · #5 03-06-2016, 06:04 AM

Very nice! I have a Harbor Freight stand thats currently holding my spare M103 that I'm going to rebuild at some point and it is nearly impossible to access the rear of the engine. My stand is one of the 4 wheel collapsable stands that guys on Pirate 4x4 recommended for holding a 24V Cummins.

Dan Stokes · #6 03-06-2016, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gatorblue92

Very nice! I have a Harbor Freight stand thats currently holding my spare M103 that I'm going to rebuild at some point and it is nearly impossible to access the rear of the engine. My stand is one of the 4 wheel collapsable stands that guys on Pirate 4x4 recommended for holding a 24V Cummins.

I'm not familiar with the M103 but I'm sure a similar mount could be fab'd. Figure out which side mount is the most centered, remove that mount, use it for the mount plate template, and weld away. With the way Mercedes makes the rear of their engines, having access back there is critical and this mount makes that easily do-able.

It sounds like we have the same stand - though I'd be a bit nervous to have an ISB on it! I reblocked an ISB and those suckers are HEAVY! That's when I made the most use of the OTC stand that I mentioned in the OP. That said, I haven't had one on one of these stands so maybe?

I'll see if I can find a pic of the OTC stand.

Here's a link: https://www.otctools.com/products/6000-lb-revolver-diesel-engine-stand If I had any computer skills I probably could have posted a pic but........

Dan