1997 OM606 Injection Pump from Turbo car installed on NON Turbo car, Not Starting
 

1997 E300D Mercedes Sedan. I took the Injection Pump from a Turboed car and put it on my Non Turboed car. I did start it and it ran fine for 5 minutes. I am diagnosing it as leaking air. I've replace all the clear lines and o rings, my Question is: I'm guessing there is a 400 PSI difference between the Turbo and Non Turbo Injectors, I'm referring to the POP Pressure. I am getting unburnt fuel from the exaust. Would the Injectors Popping at a lower pressure than what the Injection Pump is rated at, cause my car to not start?:eek:

Injector pop pressure won't be a factor in whether the engine runs or not.

One thing that can happen is installing the pump 180 out of sync. I would never have believed that the engine would run but apparently, it does.

I'm assuming you set the engine, installed a lock tool, pulled and replaced the pump with the lock tool installed on the new pump?

Has to be checked unless you are absolutely certain the injection pump was installed on the right stroke. Technically if you made sure the tang was visable in the injection pump you pulled. Then installed the new pump preferably with a tang lock device you have to be on the right four stroke cycle. Just using the harmonic balance marker before you pulled the original pump is not enough. Evidence of raw fuel is another indicator that this may be the issue.

Although the one wild card is why did you change the original pump out?

I damaged the original pump when I was replacing the seals on top. I have had the pump in and out, including a bad one I bought, so I'm sure it's very possible this happened. How...I don't know. When I removed the pump, I just removed it without using a lock tool...in the process of working on it, I may have turned the engine over the course of a few months, then when reinstalling, maybe that's when, I turned the engine over to align the harmonic balancer 15 degrees after TDC. That's probably what happened, when I turned it, I rotated it 180 degrees.

All I can say is wow, I've been pulling my hair out the last couple of weeks after buying a new pump and installing it. So the unburnt fuel is the sign that it's 180 degrees off. Awesome. Now I know what's wrong with it, thanks!! How do I go about fixing this.

Just pull the pump out rotate the engine until it's 15 ATDC again and assume I'm on the right stroke this time?

I'm confused on how this happened, I will have to research 4 stroke cycles to understand it. I thought that simply installing the lock tool in the IP was enough. I didn't know it had to be installed on the right stroke.:D

Don't waste your time pulling the pump unless you know for sure it's installed backward. There are a few threads discussing how to determine if it's on the right stroke but most involve removing the valve cover to observe the position of the cam lobes.

No you do not even have to turn the engine over to get the installation messed up. If you just set the timing mark on the balancer and pull the original pump.

You might be pulling the pump when it is not on the same stroke that the replacement one sees. If you do not refferance the harmonic balancer mark to the cams position there is a 50/50 percent chance of it being wrong.

Initially to avoid this misteak you can make sure the tang in the injection pump is visable when the harmonic balancer mark is there. Before you remove the original pump. If the tang is not present rotate the engine once. This avoids removing the valve cover.

At the same time before pulling the pump if you set the timing up properly and then look for the tang you will know the pump is installed correctly. Or not. In your case with the 50/50 odds present it is probably off.

The tang is the dimple viewable through the hole, correct? I used the locking tool to install. When I removed the pump the last time it was viewable through the port..

There is a lot of unburnt fuel so this sounds like the solution. My game plan is to set 15 atdc, remove pump, verify tang is viewable, rotate engine again to 15 aftc, reinstall with lock tool. Will this fix the problem? I will be busy all weekend mil training. I will report back next week. Thanks everyone!

I would not rotate the engine with the pump removed.

If you think that the pump is installed 180 off:

set crank at 15 atdc, verify tang is viewable, rotate engine again to 15 aftc, remove pump, rotate the pump until the lock tool can be installed, reinstall with lock tool.

Good luck.

Quick check for being on the right side of zero with the cam timing:
Open the oil cap and peek in with a flashlight. The intake and exhaust cam lobes need to all be in the clear for the #1 cylinder. Since the OM 606 is dual overhead cam, and 24 valve, you have to look left and right to see the intake and exhaust cams. Not like a 603 where it's one cam right down the center.

Greg, Thank you for the clear directions. I followed them to the T and I was very very happy with the clarity.

Kartek, THANK YOU for initially pointing out the FIX.

It was very clear after you said that, everything came together. The unburnt fuel was spraying out the egr because it was on the exaust stroke.

Excellent!

The car runs GREAT now after 2 years. I've learned to RESPECT timing.

Now I just have a power steering problem. All the fluid leaked out, I think a gasket blew on something, located right under the starter. I will jack up the car tomorrow and find out what I see.

Thanks again for everyone's help on fixing this problem that's lasted a couple years!!!!:-D