One mechanic said I needed an idler arm repair kit, and to make some other adjustment. My symptom is that there is a good amount of play in the steering wheel, pretty loose in fact.

Is the idler arm a good place to start the diagnosis? Something else I should focus on first or next after that?

Always begin with steering box adjustment ~ it's counter intuitive in that you unscrew the adjuster to remove play .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I drive a Dodge Ram that is known for horrible steering and going through the process of fixing it. That process has lead to the conclusion that steering problems can be caused by any worn part from steering box to tie rods, ball joints, idler arm or control arm bushings.

You "could" throw parts at the problem. In that case, simply replace all of the bushings and joints in the system and you will have a wonderfully handling car. Otherwise, begin the diagnostic process by having a helper move the steering wheel side to side while you look for any movement in any of the connecting linkage. Replace anything that moves independently of the steering wheel. Ball joints will have up and down movement in the joints. Lots of info on line relating to ball joint diagnosis.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

The shop manual gives instructions on how to check for steering play.

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Chassis/46-110.pdf

You don't want to over adjust the steering box, especially if that is not the cause of the play. This has been discussed in past and should show up in a search. More in this link.

1" of play on rim of wheel is acceptable. If more, go through the steps the manual outlines.

One other thing. Incorrect tire pressure can make the steering feel sloppy. Front tires have to be quite soft despite engine weight. Use the numbers under the fuel filler flap for the load carried.

Right now, my 300D steering feels sloppy compared with our newer cars (it was just taken out of storage). I will first check tire pressures. Then look for wear as outlined in manual.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I disagree with adjusting the steering box. That adjustment is for friction, not play. Overadjustment will result in steering binding and premature wear at worst and a non-return to neutral at best. Although many attempt to take out "sloppy" steering using that adjustment, it is ill advised.

As GRAHAM said, the MB spec is 1" at the steering wheel rim. These cars have recirculating ball steering and will never be as precise as rack and pinion. Your major improvement is replacing worn steering components. They are relatively inexpensive and many can be replaced DIY followed by an alignment.

I also disagree about the steering box adjustment. VERY seldom can you adjust looseness by adjusting the steering box. More often than not, you make the steering looser. Rebuilding the idler arm is a good first step along with inspection of other front suspension and steering parts.

good advice. I'll start checking the steering parts, etc.

its not like I can't drive it as is - i'll take my time.

As someone who rebuilds these boxes, this is just wrong.

NEVER start with a steering box adjustment.

Yes, the steering box can develop some looseness and play over time but it is one component among many. Blaming play in the steering on the box is like blaming one injector if a car isn't starting, it's not going to be the major cause.


Idler arm bushings, tie rod ball joints, upper and lower ball joints, upper control arm bushings, guide rod mounts, and even a lower control arm bushing can cause steering issues. In my experience I would at least check the tie rods and idler arm before touching the steering box.

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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]