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  #16  
Old 04-22-2016, 12:34 AM
southofantarctica's Avatar
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Location: Deep South Texas
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Shoot, for $500 I'd drive it and fix it!

Do you have any more pictures of it? Generals stuff: Interior, engine bay, non wrecked sides, etc. Also, how bad is the B pillar?

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'85 300D ~ 381k, HD Bilstien shocks, 27.50x8.50x14R General Grabber AT2 tires, 4 E-Code headlight upgrade with 90/130w bulbs, boost turned up, new timing chain, and injectors. SOLD

'85 CJ7 ~ OM617 swap, Tarus electric fan, T5 trans, Dana 300, 4.88 R&P, Mile Marker locking hubs, ALDA removed, AMC 20 rear disk brake conversion, Aussie locked with 33's and 5" Rough Country lift.

Last edited by southofantarctica; 04-22-2016 at 01:34 PM.
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  #17  
Old 04-22-2016, 12:38 AM
Mölyapina's Avatar
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I think it depends on your location. I would say this would be worth at least $500 over here. $250 would be a screaming deal.
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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

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  #18  
Old 04-22-2016, 11:02 AM
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Around me $500 would probably be about top dollar
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily
2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily
1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended
1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper
1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL
2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped
1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above
1992 BMW 525i -traded in
1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103
1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one
1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold
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  #19  
Old 04-22-2016, 11:51 AM
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I would be in for $500 if I needed the parts that are good. I don't have time to mess with parting a car for profit. One friend that owns a yard films each car running then pulls the major components and stores the carcass in a rack. Once it sits for x number of days, he reviews for valuable parts. He crushes to make room for the next one. Enthusiasts drool over what goes to the crusher. Enthusiasts of low priced old cars are also cheap. Newer low end cars have higher dollar value and more people are willing to spend the money. Better still is when insurance dollars are available.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #20  
Old 04-22-2016, 12:29 PM
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Location: North New Jersey
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god this depresses me. If I had a big property or a barn you better belive I'd snag it for 500. Or I'd share it as a parts car with somebody in North Jersey/NYC near me.
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  #21  
Old 04-22-2016, 01:52 PM
'84 300D Owner
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by southofantarctica View Post
Shoot, for $500 I'd drive it and fix it!

Do you have any more pictures of it? Generals stuff: Interior, engine bay, non wrecked sides, etc. Also, how bad is the B pillar?
I'll post some more pictures this weekend. I don't know exactly how bad the B pillar damage is. A reputable shop here in Dallas looked at it and quoted $5,100 to repair, but that includes new doors at $850 a piece and new rocker, paint, etc. I don't know how you replace parts of the unibody, but I guess pieces can be cut out and welded back in.
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  #22  
Old 04-22-2016, 02:12 PM
greazzer's Avatar
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Location: 2021 - The Great Florida Count-down
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You're nuts if you dump this car for $500 bucks or even $1,000, but that's assuming a few issues. There's not many pictures, but from what I can tell, this is a really clean car. No cracked dash? CAREFULLY go over the car and determine if the ONLY damage are the doors and B-pillar. I've seen real clunkers on this forum with "For Sale" pricing over $2K, $3K, even $5K.

Your car appears to be in nice shape. Does it have any rust?

If you can live with the indignity of a few banged up doors, drive it like it is. If you have a pull a part (or similar chain), you run the likelihood of finding matching, undamaged doors eventually, same color, et cet. Doors run around $75 bucks, whole. I had the same exact colored car at one time.

Once you find matching doors, with no damage, the repair is now whittled down to the B-Pillar and lining things up. You run the risk of fixing this for under $200 bucks yourself.

You can get a strap and a come-a-long and pull out the "B-Pillar". Go very slow. You'll be surprised what a little afternoon tinkering can do. I bought a 2000 Regal with a smashed rear quarter at an auction and purchased off E-Bay a quarter panel puller and got a come-a-long and after around 3 hours of slowly pulling ... you had a hard time really telling the car was that smashed.

If that car runs strong, and is really mechanically sound, I would drive it like you did before.
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  #23  
Old 04-22-2016, 02:21 PM
greazzer's Avatar
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Forgot to ask ...

Does the car still drive? Excluding possibly the car's alignment being knocked out of whack, how does it drive?
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  #24  
Old 04-22-2016, 02:25 PM
'84 300D Owner
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dallas, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
Forgot to ask ...

Does the car still drive? Excluding possibly the car's alignment being knocked out of whack, how does it drive?
I can tell no difference in the way it drives. And there's no rust on the car either.
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  #25  
Old 04-22-2016, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbjukraine View Post
I can tell no difference in the way it drives. And there's no rust on the car either.
Well, for $500 bucks that's a steal. Unless your getting out of the MB game or the W123 game, that car looks like a keeper and getting into the wreck (assuming no one was injured) was an early Christmas.

You can find those doors on the cheaps, e.g, $75 bucks at the yards, and pulling out the B-Pillar yourself is doable. Have you looked at it to determine how far it's pushed in?
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  #26  
Old 04-22-2016, 03:00 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbjukraine View Post
I'll post some more pictures this weekend. I don't know exactly how bad the B pillar damage is. A reputable shop here in Dallas looked at it and quoted $5,100 to repair, but that includes new doors at $850 a piece and new rocker, paint, etc. I don't know how you replace parts of the unibody, but I guess pieces can be cut out and welded back in.
Sounds like you should pick up some used doors and fix it. I have six or 7 I'd sell all day for 75 ea.
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  #27  
Old 04-22-2016, 03:48 PM
'84 300D Owner
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
Well, for $500 bucks that's a steal. Unless your getting out of the MB game or the W123 game, that car looks like a keeper and getting into the wreck (assuming no one was injured) was an early Christmas.

You can find those doors on the cheaps, e.g, $75 bucks at the yards, and pulling out the B-Pillar yourself is doable. Have you looked at it to determine how far it's pushed in?
Not sure where $500 entered the picture. The lowest price I mentioned was $1,000...
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  #28  
Old 04-22-2016, 03:51 PM
greazzer's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbjukraine View Post
Not sure where $500 entered the picture. The lowest price I mentioned was $1,000...
My bad ... I was quoting what others said ...

$1,000 would be a steal as well ...
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  #29  
Old 04-22-2016, 03:54 PM
'84 300D Owner
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dallas, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer View Post
My bad ... I was quoting what others said ...

$1,000 would be a steal as well ...
Come buy it for $1,000.

I would have no hesitation driving this car from Dallas to Columbia...
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  #30  
Old 04-22-2016, 04:09 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: West Quebec
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbjukraine View Post
How about $1,000?
What I said was that I doubted anyone HERE would jump on it. The keyword was HERE.

People get stuck into the idea that the opinions and ideas of this group are the holy grail of Mercedes-dom.

There are plenty of folks who are knowledgeable about this cars who stay away from forums like this like the plague. I feel the same way about car clubs (politics).

You could try floating it elsewhere.

I would have promoted fixing it to you, in my reply, but I was working on the assumption you had discounted that. No idea why you wouldn't want to fix it if you think that much of the car.

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