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  #1  
Old 04-27-2016, 08:33 PM
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Location: SF, CA, USA
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lack of starter cover =? lack of electricity

hi folks, i just replaced my starter (yeah!) and since i was going from a california to a federal model, the stamped cover did not fit any more (they are mirror images). i reinstalled the starter anyway. since then, we had a rainstorm. i can glow the plugs but as soon as i try to crank, the whole electrical system goes out. wet starter, right? is this what that filthy metal sheath was for, and if so, can anyone find me a federal one?

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Old 04-28-2016, 10:10 AM
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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I kind of understand since my 1985 was CA, but now both my 300D's have federal engines. Photos would help. Regardless, the cover is a heat shield, to block radiant heat from the exhaust hitting the starter. You should also have a heat shield bolted to the bottom rear of your exhaust. Indeed, I can't recall if my federal engines have a heat shield on the starter itself (I'll try to look).

Your 1985 CA also had a heat shield on the rear of the alternator, which earlier cars didn't. The design was kind of klutzed-in because it makes access to an alternator mounting bolt harder. You can't easily remove it because they routed the cable thru the shield.

Without a heat shield, the starter can become hot after a long high-powered run (say up a mountain) and then doesn't start as well since hot copper conducts less electricity, though a hot engine is easier to start too. In practice, it is probably better to extend the life of the starter and its wires.

BTW, if you don't like the bouncy, breaky air cleaner of the federal engine, you can use your 1985 CA frame-mounted air cleaner. Look for my post. I give a Wix filter PN that is much cheaper than the "correct" filter element (2 x $4 vs $50).
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  #3  
Old 04-28-2016, 11:48 AM
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thanks, bill. sounds like i cannot blame this possible short on the lack of a heat shield. i left my phone in the truck which i parked over on the next block, so no photos this morning. i will get out the ohmmeter next and see what is really happening in the starter circuit. meanwhile, my clock is way out of whack - a sure sign of electrical work!
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  #4  
Old 04-28-2016, 11:58 AM
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wet starter seems hard to imagine, but not impossible. Perhaps a poor rebuild? or a mixture of moisture entering a poor rebuild?

the location of the starter makes it prone to getting wet, regardless of shields.

I would try disconnecting the started completely then turning the key to verify the problem.

those shields are more intended for heat.
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  #5  
Old 04-28-2016, 12:51 PM
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yeah, disconnecting it for tests sounds like a prime move. i think and hope the rebuild was a quality one - the starter came from a long-established brick and mortar shop (rite-way in SF) and has a year's warranty. i'll be able to check it all out tomorrow. thanks folks.
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  #6  
Old 04-30-2016, 03:06 PM
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OK, so that heatshield had nothing to do with it. the electrical problem was indeed somewhere in or at the starter, not at the alternator nor my homebrew GP & headlamp circuit. however, disconnecting and reconnecting the starter made things work again. therefore, i didn't learn much.

what could have happened, that the whole circuit would cut reliably cut out right when the actuator was supposed to kick in? i measured 1.3V at the starter after the failure occurred, not sure if this tells us anything. luckily, i didn't make any accidental spot welds this time, and the battery didn't discharge.
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  #7  
Old 04-30-2016, 07:20 PM
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What you describe is standard issue corroded connection on the main battery feed.

This can be on the positive or negative side so start at the large battery cables and move towards the starter / engine. If your battery is in the trunk, the ground usually goes to the body then there is a braided cable that runs from the body to engine.

Just because a wire is bolted to something does not mean that it will conduct electricity so be sure to remove and clean the connections.
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  #8  
Old 05-01-2016, 12:53 PM
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thanks SL320. there was no corrosion, but it could definitely have been a loose connection at the starter terminal. unlike the original starter, this one had two nuts on the post, and i think i left the lower one too loose when i first installed the cables. this time i sat it down firmly before stacking on the cable terminals. easy fix, thanks everyone!

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