I have a white 84 SD and a black 85 380 SE. I wonder how tough it is to put a diesel engine and necessaries in a gasser. Anyone ever made a change like this?

I've been thinking about doing this for a few years. I just wonder what all I haven't considered. Is their a list somewhere to help give me a scope of the work required to make this swap? If not could we start listing all the systems which will need to be changed and what changing them includes?

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

It's very very time consuming.

Since you have both cars, it's doable, but you will need to completely strip down the gasser, then swap stuff in...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I know it's kinda foolish to do anything to a running car except standard maintenance but the black SE body is almost perfect. The driver's door was dented by a girl friend's teenage son but I found a perfect match including the exact pin stripe. The white SD has very few flaws but it's not an eye catcher as is the black body.

I'm wondering if most folks think this is a true swap. I have no intentions of having two running automobiles when this is over. The SE hasn't run in three years. Altogether, the SE car has spend 10 years sitting. If I do this and complete the job, when it's over I expect to have one running car and a pile of junk to part out or scrap.

I have a friend who will remove the 380 and drop the 300 into the body. Everything else is on me. I've tinkered enough with the diesel to understand the vacuum systems, ignition switch and fuel lines but I'm still reluctant to say I can do it. My fear is that I wonder if I know the diesel well enough to understand what may surprise me.

I've searched the web and several have done the swap but few details are mentioned. One thing that stood out was that there doesn't seem to be a mount for the left engine shock unless something was custom built. Most of the changes were made to the late generation 126s so the drive shafts were an issue. I do not think that is the case here. Seems like the drive train mounts should be exact from engine mounts to differential yoke.

Just wonder what's going to jump up from the rear and bite me. That's the bad, the good is that I'm not going to be searching and paying for stuff to do the job. Everything I need should be right there. I appreciate any thoughts on what I might encounter.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Well it is not rocket science. The 617 diesel is about as simple as it gets, and with a few changes it will be in and running. There is no computer. The 617 probably has and EGR valve mounted to the far front of the intake manifold. There is a kit sold by a couple of members to eliminate that. The ignition switch at least the rear part might have to be changed to allow for an engine shut off, yet the ports might even be there on the gasser chassis. The transmission will be OK, though a slightly difference version is probably used for a gasser. So switch the engine and transmission together and save yourself work. The driveline is the same, rear axle ratio is probably a little diffenrent gearing, but not that you would notice it. You have to pull the radiator to remove the engine anyway, in this case make sure that the diesel gets its own radiator and the oil cooler will fit like it it made for it. The diesel needs a good 12V lead from the ignition to the glow plug relay on the drivers side top of inner fender. That is all it needs for electrics, there are no electronics on the 617 Diesel. Since the diesel is an 84, it has the pretty simple vacuum system and I would take good photographs of both systems before taking them both apart. Well my thinking would be to leave all the vacuum as is on the 85SD and then all you have to do is tie is the dark brown tubing on the 84 which is the engine stop or fuel shut off. I might suggest you even install the dash instruments complete from the 84 into the 85. When you do that you can check the back of the ignition and make sure vacuum ports are there. That way, I think your chances of having a correctly operating tachometer and glow plug light on the dash will be there and working. Can't say that for sure, but knowing how these manufacturers work I think it is highly possible. The legs on the side of the engine might have to be changed. Easy to tell with a tape measure. Put in new motor mounts. The old one are shot and the diesel is heavy. Your dash is set up for an electronic or electric reading oil pressure gauge. Well, if your diesel is coming from an SD, well then that will solve that problem also as it has an electric oil pressure gauge. Now tell me about the front seats in that gasser SD. Are they any good, (condition wise), what color are they and are they for sale. Put a new transmission mount in it. If you have any oil leaks on the diesel, the time to fix that is while it is out, and I would really recommend a new gasket behind the oil filter mount and new grommets in the oil return from both the aircleaner and turbo. There are many things that can surprise you on a computer controlled gas engine. Not so on this diesel. What you see is what you get, no surprised. I am pretty sure that the gas engine has a two line fuel system, into the engine and a return line. Pretty sure. But the diesel positively needs the two lines, no way around that. And the fuel "filler" tube will have to be enlarged or exchanged to allow for the diesel fuel nozel at the pump.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

Several years ago there was or is a forum member goes by ICEFIRE did some conversions.

Diesel SEC swap begins today.


Diesel SEC UPDATE important info

Differential change/swap questions


Diesel SEC Done (sorta)

Diesel SEC, MPG report, first tank of diesel 32MPG

Changed Diff in my SDC today


Hope these links help.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Thanks for the links charmalu. It seems like they are taking on much more work and many more problems than me. Both bodies seem identical.

junqueyardjim, you're right in the wheelhouse with the information and suggestions. I will remove the engines and transmission together. Good adivse. I'm figuring the worst issue there is the mount or member not fitting on the body which I'm doubting will be an issue.

I don't know what all I'm keeping on the white body but the interior is going in the black car. The springs and pads in the front seats are in excellent shape. I'll probably use them and though the driver's seat back has that telltale edge which is rubbed to the steel.

The egr is gone, good riddance. The other systems will have to be investigate but the good thing is I don't have to leave anything on the SD body if I need it for the swap.

I've changed the ignition switch and even the dash out in the SD so I'm good there. I'll probably grind the steering lock off which will probably make the tumblers and key last a lot longer.

I have a shopping cart which already has the shifter bushing and transmission mount in it. I'll add the oil filter housing gasket and check out the grommets on the drain tubes before I order.

I appreciate the directions and important items which should be addressed. Before I start this project I intend to list the order of disassembly for review by you experienced guys here.

May I make this 'The Official Assist The Idiot in Swapping His Diesel Engine into His Gas Mercedes,' thread?

Folks, bring the suggestions, redundant comments don't bother me. Neither does someone assuming that I have no clue what I'm getting into. I'm certain it's true.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

I'd particularly like to know if you see any rust or anything else that would make this swap a fools errand. The last few are some I shot of the SD to get some feel for how the GP relay and fuel hookups would go.

https://www.flickr.com/cameraroll

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

I took all the wiring loose on the SE today. I had plenty of photos but nothing describes the mess of wires, hoses and lines running across the intake on that engine.

I got the radiator and alternator off too. I just did the heads and timing cover less than a decade ago and I'm glad I used antiseize on every bolt stick in aluminum. I twisted a few exhaust bolts and they were easy to break.

Tomorrow, Lord willing, I'm going to try and get everything from the exhaust manifold to the tail pipe removed. I'll probably get the driveshaft and starter wires too.

The condenser has never been off this car so the lines which meet in front of the condenser next to the electric fan wouldn't budge. I sprayed some liquid wrench on them a couple of times today but they still wouldn't loosen.

The SE has two fuel lines which come off the body a little higher, about nine or ten inches, than the diesel. One of the fuel lines runs to the pressure line on the AC hose. The other runs to the fuel distributor. That AC line runs to the condenser.

I know that hose with the two fuel lines running into it has to come off. I hate to tear the line up but I'd hate more to mess up the condenser. Will heat help break these condenser to AC line fittings?

I understand the flex disk, carrier bearing housing and exhaust so I'm good there. I expected to spend the rest of the week getting the SE ready to give up it's engine and transmission but I now have that activity planned for late this week.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

I have seen some 126 gassers in the yards with the fuel line going to a copper looking thing on the AC line about 6" long.
I figured it is to cool the fuel so it won`t vapor lock. Don`t know for sure.

You mentioned about replacing the gasket on the oil filter housing.
Get the one from the dealer verses Victor Reinz or?? which is a flat gasket.
The MB one is a waffle design and seals better.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I will certainly buy the oil filter housing gasket from the dealer. Are there other gaskets, grommets and such that should be dealer items too?

I'd like to view the FMS on the 85 380SE tank assembly and some other particulars about that car but I can't seem to get it to load. Any suggestions?

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Your 85 380SE is on Disc 2 of the FSM. Main Function Group 47 Fuel System should provide what you need.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

Exactly what I needed!

Thank you, Sir.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic