76 300d w115 pre glow light not coming on
 

I have a 1976 300d. I noticed lately that the pre-glow light would not come on when I turned the ignition on. When I move the key to try to start it would flash and then come on. Now the light won't come on at all. Now I can't start the car at all. Any ideas on what the problem could be? Could the relay be bad? Glow plugs bad? I'm lost on what to do.

I don't know much about this stuff. If it happened to my SD I'd...

Check the GP relay box to see it the fuse is blown. If it is there's probably an issue with a GP grounding due to a swollen tip touching something. If it's not the fuse then check the wire connections in the box to make sure they are tight and clean.

The bulb is suspect though I've never seen one burnt. Removing and reinstalling the bulb holder will likely remedy a contract issue between the cluster and the bulb holder.

The last thing I'd investigate would be the wiring between the GP relay and the bulb. Check all grounds first.

Read the owners manual on how the flow plug light works. It behaves differently for different model years. Generally, a flashing glow light indicates one or more burned out glow plugs. Have you tested your glow plugs? There are many ways to do it, from very easy (with a clamp on ammeter) to a lot of work (take them all out and glow each plug individually).

You can do a rough estimate of the glow plugs' heating ability by measuring the resistance of each GP and compare to a known good one. The GP really needs to be removed, hooked to a battery and be made to glow (or not) to really test it.

I think Diesel Giant has a pictorial on testing the GP wiring. You should also check the fuse which may be located in the relay box. I don't know on your car.

OP has the series wired glow system.

One plug fails, or one bad connection - no glow at all.

I would try unplugging and plugging the relay under the dash. Hopefully your relay is still good but has mild corrosion or dirt - which can easily be cleaned. The other option could be that the relay is bad.

All this is assuming that you have checked your GP fuse. They are cheap and you should keep a few handy. Try a new fuse first.

Sometimes my GP light doesnt come on, I lightly tap the bottom of my dash, which triggers the relay. This is probably an indication that my relay might be going bad; however they are expensive and some folks have claimed that new relays are also finicky. So I m choosing to maintain mine and run it as long as possible.

Good luck

Sorry OP. Forgot to mention, I have the newer style GPs'. Its advisable to upgrade to them. You will be genuinely pleased with the starting performance.

Your current relay will work just fine with the newer style GPs' - it will just stay on longer.

In case you are considering upgrading, the GPs' you need are called - "Bosch 80035/0250201044 Duraterm Glow Plug"

Especially if you own an older Mercedes diesel with the relay under the dash near the brake arm. You should have a spare glow plug relay.

Cheap if you have a pick or pull car locally that is Mercedes diesel and older than 1981 probably. You can check the years for applications. I suspect the same relay from maybe 75 till 80. Verification is easily done on a parts listing site.

I have had a couple of these old relays just age and use fail. You can make a manual system with an old ford fender mounted starter relay as well. Did a quick parts check. It quickly looks like the original glow plug relay is a 1968 to 1976 specific part.

Some of us highly recommend this solution....

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Hello,

When you turn to the key to where you would be glowing the glow plugs, measure the voltage at the #5 glow plug (black wire). If the voltage is 12v then you have a bad glow plug somewhere (check each plug and resistor bar), if it's roughly 10.5v then the plugs are ok, if it's 0v its either the relay or the power feed to the relay is bad.

Anyone have a link to a DIY article on this?

76 300D no pre glow
 

I looked under the dash and the relay is good. As soon as I unplugged it and plugged it back in the light came on. The wires are loose. One of the wires was extremely hot. Could this be the cause of the problem. What do I need to do in this case? Do I just need to make sure the connections are not fried.

Well the excess heat from a poor connection may have melted some solder. Or you just have a poor old oxidized connection. I would visually inspect and clean the connection. Those connections must also have enough tension to function. Loose to the mate is not good. You should be able to retension them as well.

Put It back in and test the temperature of the wire again. Just giving the other connections in the plug and relay a quick cleaning as well. Chances are when the heating is not there or far less it is repaired.

I always also add some form of protection to prevent new oxidation in any electrical connection I clean as a habit. In cleaning and oxidation over the years the original oxidation resistant plating on the terminal may be gone for all practical purposes. I also suspect when the plug change was updated they draw more current then the old system did. Eighty amps versus sixty amps perhaps. Many of these component have served far longer in service than was ever considered expected originally.

As for installing a ford starter solenoid if desired. Basically it is a four terminal device. You take a hot decent gauge wire from the battery to either one of the large terminals on the solenoid. You take a decent gauge as well wire from the other large terminal.

This you wire to the glow plugs. This leaves you with two smaller terminals. One you ground to clean metal with a short or long wire of moderate gauge. And route a wire again of moderate gauge to a push button inside the car from the other small terminal to one terminal on the push button. The other terminal on the push button goes to a twelve volt supply. .

The way it functions is a much lighter current going through the pushbutton and solenoid when pressed. Magnetically closes a powerful set of contacts inside the solenoid. This handles the high amperage the glow plus need to function. The reason for a push button is you cannot accidentally leave it on.

It is also best and probably possible to take the hot wire from the solenoid to the old strip fuse holder on the firewall. This will leave the strip fuse in the system so a shorted glow plug cannot electrically burn out anything. I usually mount the solenoid to the fender apron. It just makes it easy to run the wires and is a convienient location as well. You want a common ford external starter solenoid. I used to pay about ten dolllars for them or get one off of a ford wreck in the salvage yards for a dollar or so. Prices will probably be up a little for the new ones now.

Thanks! So on an old series glow plug car, would you run the big hot wire straight to the number five glow plug?

Yes to the fifth glow plug where the current wire is attached. Actually using the strip fuse holder is the best place to install the feeder wire from the new relay. Rather than the number five glow plug. You want to retain the strip fuse in the system anyways.