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  #1  
Old 08-02-2016, 10:03 PM
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Location: Middle TN
Posts: 4,154
Do I really need to spend $180 to seal my sun roof

300SD sunroof drips when it rains. I came out today after a rain and a book left on the passenger seat was soaked. The carpet behind the front passenger seat is wet. Driving around a corner while it was raining and water dripped from the front edge of the closed sun roof.

My understanding was that the drains would carry any water away. That doesn't appear to be the case. I recently made sure that the drains were clear by using a small drain auger from HF.

Only 2 brands of seals are available on this site - Genuine Mercedes (pricey) and URO (worthless).

Will new seals take care of the problem? Could it be anything else? I like my sunroof and am not going to follow the thread discussing silicone sealing it closed.

Edit: What's the sun roof stay for in this link? http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/3338/MBZ_3338_BDYSUN_pg1.htm#item0

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #2  
Old 08-02-2016, 10:05 PM
compu_85's Avatar
Cruisin on Electric Ave.
 
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I would check that the sunroof frame isn't rusted out. The drains should carry away any water that gets past the seal.

-J
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  #3  
Old 08-02-2016, 11:25 PM
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Fix it for $4

Unless the seal is woefully toast, you should be able to get Prestone Power steering fluid with Stop Leak. It helps to rejuvenate rubber seals.

Brush the stuff on liberally on as much of the rubber if you can, ie, if you can take the seal out so much the better, but you might not have to. Brush the stuff on, leave it on for about an hour or so to be absorbed in, then wipe it off with just a paper towel or rag. You don't want to use any chemicals whatsover. Just wipe off the excess.

Keep the sunroof open overnight if you have a garage or if it's not going to rain, and then use it normally, but do open/close it a few times over the first few days to make sure the rubber seal doesn't stick to the roof.

I just saved you $176 and a lot of work having to take the seal out.

jeff 1991 300d
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  #4  
Old 08-03-2016, 05:41 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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It is unclear from your post if the drains are all clear or not. I recommend using the cord from the weedwhacker for clearing them. I believe the water comes out in the wheel well in back, not sure about the front drains.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #5  
Old 08-03-2016, 07:37 AM
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lied to for years
 
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Location: Elizabethton, TN
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I bought a small drain opener for bathroom sinks.I use it to snake out drains you can see it hanging underneath car when cleaned good.The forward drains you will see under the hood under windsheild.
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  #6  
Old 08-03-2016, 09:33 AM
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The side seals look like very worn felt. There doesn't appear to be a rear seal. The front rubber looks intact. I'll try the PS fluid & stop leak. I'll also remove the roof again and flush the drains with water and do a more detailed review of the leaks. I've had the roof removed several times and the process has become easy.

Another question came to mind. I've cleaned and lubed the slides and the roof seems to move freely but sometimes still hangs. I remember reading about a clutch or other adjustment at the motor. It seams that there was a measurement perhaps with a spring scale which I don't currently have. What's the practical way to make the roof open and close with the motor. I obviously don't want to pul too hard on the cable and damage it or the motor. (84SD)
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #7  
Old 08-04-2016, 07:36 AM
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The cable needs to be removed and lubricated every once in a while. I don't know what the recommended interval is but after 30 years it is overdue if it hasn't been done before.
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  #8  
Old 08-04-2016, 08:05 AM
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+1 on cable lube

Be prepared for a fiddly and time consuming job, but it can be done. If your motor operation is similar to the 124 then the cable will be retained under the sunroof panel lining - once released it can be pulled through for cleaning.

You can also adjust the motor/cable using a plastic wheel (on side of motor).

The other important adjustment affecting sealing relates to the runners, these can be raised or lowered in order to create a good seal/flat roof when closed.
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1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)
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  #9  
Old 08-04-2016, 08:47 AM
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I've had the cable out. It went back in pretty easily. The roof itself is adjusted per FSM slightly lower in the front but still close to level. I may tackle the other car 1st because the wind deflector spring needs to be replaced and I have a parts car for more practice.

Will report back.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #10  
Old 08-04-2016, 12:10 PM
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1987 w124 300D
 
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Location: Edmonton, Canada
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One of my spare w124 parts cars solved the issue with a bead of silicone caulking applied externally all around the sunroof.

However, I found that with enough snow piled on the top of the car, was enough weight to push the sunroof down to break the seal.

..depends on if the sunroof is important to you or not.
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  #11  
Old 08-04-2016, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottmcphee View Post
One of my spare w124 parts cars solved the issue with a bead of silicone caulking applied externally all around the sunroof.

However, I found that with enough snow piled on the top of the car, was enough weight to push the sunroof down to break the seal.

..depends on if the sunroof is important to you or not.
I like the sun roof especially since the AC needs refurbishing. I'd rather fix it than plug it. I'm trying to get things fixed without rigging (poorly).

So, to summarize, seals should keep some water out of the roof but the drains are designed to handle the amount that "should/may" get in.

Roof itself can be adjusted to help seal.

Seal may be able to be refurbished IF it responds positively to PS fluid with stop leak. Others have opted to squirt silicone and be done but that doesn't always work.

Frame may be rusted which would leak and not be fixed by any of the other suggestions.

More info to determine exact circumstances on this particular car needed.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Last edited by Junkman; 08-04-2016 at 01:11 PM.
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  #12  
Old 08-17-2016, 11:13 PM
Smitty
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Central CA
Posts: 22
lube lube lube all aged Mercedes need regular lube dont give up on leaks issue the water drains under the hood yes under battery tray and vents all need to be clean and clear check out ************** on you tube I learned sooooooo much from Kent Bergsma and fixed all my sunroof water leaks thanks to mercedes source
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  #13  
Old 08-19-2016, 08:38 AM
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The sunroof seals are just to keep dust out- not to seal against water. If you have a water leak then seals won't cure that; you 've got to find where the leak is. Open the roof and use a bottle of water and pour it on the sides and see if any leaks down. Investigate until you find the issue.

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