We are getting ready to change the timing chain on our 617 , anyone have a chain tool we (my son and I) borrow/rent?

We live in Oregon.
Thank greg

I don't have the crimper but I have a chain guide I'd rent....



It's not absolutely necessary, but if you mess up and slip a tooth, well....

If you want to build one, here's how - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355389-chain-replacement-tool.html

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

I built mine out of scrap wood. All you really need is something to keep the chain from moving away from the cam gear. And of course you can over-complicate it from there if you want.

-Rog

I've got a strong 17 year old son to help hold the chain thanks all I need is a crimped.
G

If you know how to peen then that's going to be the cheapest. It's what I and many others have done. Just don't be tempted to buy a cheap chain tool. None of them will crimp this type of chain. So it's either an expensive tool or peen it yourself.

-Rog

Why could you not use one of the master links used in the SL's? I used them in my 380SL with what looks like the same style of chain.
1984 Mercedes-Benz 380SL Base Convertible - Camshafts & Timing Chains - Page 1

Attached Thumbnails

 

Mercedes does not recommend using the C-Clip type of master links on a 617 engine. I pretty sure it has to do with the potential of the Diesel 617's harmonics vibrating the clips off.


.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

That IS what you use to hook the old and new chains together during installation, but afterward you do have to install a permanent link. It's such a simple thing to do, I wouldn't chance it no matter what anyone says.

-Rog

And if the clips fail and come off you do not have just a chain that came apart because if it comes apart when running a 617 or the other Mercedes diesels, you most probably will have wrecked the total engine. The pistons and valves collide, breaking the cam, breaking pistons and more. Just breaking the cam is very serious business and unless you pull the head and really look things over, you don't know how bad the damage is. Gasoline engines are not quite as critical when it comes to breaking the timing chain as piston and valves do not collide.

__________________
Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

I beg to differ. I scattered the 85 380SE engine within six months of buying the car. It took me 9 months to tear it down, find replacement parts and get up the nerve to change a piston which had a hole punched through it. It jumped timing because of a brittle chain guide losing a corner and dropping between the gear and chain.

I crimped a master link on my 617 to feed a new timing chain through it. After getting it fed around it's path I crimped another master link on it to finish the job.

We held the chain onto the cam gear by hand. I'd rather do this project alone instead of giving so much liability to a human helper. If the engine makes it another 100K I'll probably borrow, buy, rent, steal or make one of the helper type mechanical apparatuses to make sure it's done right.

Under no circumstance should anyone use a 380 master link for anything other than feeding the new chain through the engine. Never run the engine with the circlip type master link.

__________________
84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic