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Engine 1985 300d
I am looking at a 300d engine with 130,000 miles to swap into my 85 300sd what can I expect as for differences?
I would appreciate opinions and suggestions Mine has 322,000 and is getting a little tired so I am thinking a head, L do have the space to store the car and then pull motor & strip when ready. Thx greazer2b |
#2
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What year 300D? Turbo or not?
Sixto 83 300SD? |
#3
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1985 300d
greazer2b |
#4
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Federal for federal, yes. California for California, yes. One for the other, you should have all the parts to make it work but I'll leave that to the experts. Naturally aspirated Euro 300D, physical fit into a federal SD but moving the turbo over isn't wise.
The transmission isn't a straightforward swap since the 123 uses a mechanical speedo while the 126 uses an electronic speedo. You can swap transmission tail housings. Sixto 83 300SD Last edited by sixto; 08-21-2016 at 02:27 PM. |
#5
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If the engine feels tired but is otherwise well maintained, clean the boost signal line from the back end of the intake manifold through the overboost protection solenoid to the ALDA atop the injection pump. Then consider adjusting or shimming the ALDA for a dash more fuel enrichment under boost.
Sixto 83 300SD |
#6
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My 85sd is a California, but Isn't the only engine difference the turbo mount.
I realize the trannys are different. I hope others with expertise chime in also. greazer2b |
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Quote:
greazer2b |
#8
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I'm not a fan of touching the ALDA but remove it temporarily to see if the engine wakes up. If so, the engine isn't as tired as you think. Maybe the ALDA's gotten lazy. If it's leaky or otherwise deficient, it's not converting boost into enough downward force for fuel enrichment. Adjustment or a shim can correct that.
Sixto 83 300SD |
#9
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California engines do not have an oil drain tube from the air cleaner. You will use the california manifolds or replace the exhaust down pipe if the 300d isnt california.
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
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I think I got this straight in my head.
You have a 85 300D Federal. You have a 83 300SD kali. The starters are both on the right side, they are both 617 engines. The kali starter will have the starter solenoid on the top to clear the trap oxidizer. Federal is on the bottom. The kali will work on the Federal, but the Federal will not work on the Kali because of the Trap. Remove the Trap, and the federal will work. The oil Filter Housing will have to be swapped. Mechanical for the 300D Electrical for the SD. Also the angle is a bit different from what Mach4 posted in his SL Diesel conversion thread. If you are just swapping engines, keep using the SD trans. This would be a good time to swap over the Federal Manifolds and Air Cleaner housing. The Down Pipe will have to be swapped if going to the Fed Manifolds. It will be longer because the Kali Manifolds sit higher to clear the Trap. Don`t know if 123 and 126 Down Pipes are the same though. If you have a set of 78 or 79 300SD manifolds good time to install them. They have no EGR. You might have to swap the Engine Mount arms. Think the length is a bit longer?
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616... 1) Not much power 2) Even less power 3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast. 80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works |
#11
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As far as I can tell everything is still factory set. geazer2b |
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YES; I have 85 300sd Cali YES; Other is 85 300d Fed Trap Oxidizer; Already removed Trap Oxidzer with ROLLGUY's Kit - "Works Great" Trans; I will keep SDTrans Engine Arms; I not sure This is what I like and depend on from this forum Thanks Guys greazer2b |
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About the shim, I meant the ALDA isn't providing enough upward movement or relief of fuel de-enrichment. To help it along increase the distance between the ALDA pushrods and the injection pump with a shim. Bosch uses shims during calibration. MB doesn't sell ALDAs separately from IPs but they sell $him$. Find a washer of similar ID and OD and file it so it's not so thick as to defeat all ALDA effect. Trial and error but so is shade tree ALDA adjustment.
Apologies for misdirection on the differences among 617s. I'm slowly relearning the beasts. Sixto 83 300SD |
#14
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Looks like others already cleaned up most of the early mis-info.
I put an older engine in my 1985 CA 300D, after its engine self-destructed (seized, pistons missing chunks @ 330K). The older engine has no "rack position sensor" on the IP (1983-, I think). I see a "81" on the front the block (or head, forget), so perhaps from an 82 car. Real happy with it, since I measured >400 psig in all cylinders and appeared to be recently rebuilt. I scored on craigslist for $300 incl some accessories (alternator and starter) from a small VW shop (had PickNPull markings). I kept the frame-mounted air cleaner, since I think a better design, and even put one on my 1984 300D. I stack 2 Wix filters, instead of pay $50 for the "correct" filter. Since the 1985 turbo inlet is higher, I had to hack-saw off ~2" of the air filter outlet tube. I used a 90 deg silicone duct between the two (ebay). I kept the "tee" oil drain in the valve cover breather tube, but instead of draining oil blow-by into the turbo inlet like 85 CA (nasty), I ran a tube over to the federal "air cleaner oil drain tube". As mentioned, anyone w/ a 1985 CA engine can't do this "re-drain design" because the upper oil pan doesn't have that oil drain stub (boss isn't drilled). Unless you swap pans or drill it, you are stuck sucking oil into the turbo, or you could install an after-market oil separator as others have - one guy sells a kit that drains to the ground or ebay for the tuner market. BTW, it felt like that oil drain has a check valve in the upper oil pan, since when I blow I feel slight resistance until something "pops", but perhaps imagination since I can't imagine even 2 ft of oil giving enough pressure to open one. Other differences: Need older down exhaust pipe from turbo outlet to main pipe, or have your 85 CA shortened. More heat shields on 85 CA, but might be good. You won't need the alternator heat shield, but can't easily remove it since the cable goes thru it. Since not using EGR, most sensor variances won't matter. Smart to change the transmission front seal (behind torque converter), while accessible. 85 CA has the 700.4xx transmission, so different PN.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#15
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You may want to edit misdirections in post #4 so as not to confuse future readers.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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