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  #1  
Old 08-21-2016, 02:18 PM
bigsky's Avatar
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OM617 ID Help/Advise

Need help from an OM 617 expert

Last week I went and looked at a NA 617. Owner thought it was a 84 with about 134K miles. Motor #617 912 12 087 454 - can the year be varified with these numbers? Also noticed a few differences:
Head bolts are a star pattern, not allen head
A/C was on drivers bottom, not passenger top.
Alternator bracket, and thermastat housing are slightly different then my 78, 617
Injector pump had this assy, behind ADA. Not sure what it is
Throttle linkages on valve cover are slightly different than the 78
Oil filter housing, and cap had same part # as the 78

Overall did not look like a hard job to get to work in a 78. Is this a Euro motor? Would it be worth $500?? Tranni is shot, from all my research the 78 tranni should work, just have to change kick down.

The motor on my 78 300CD is consuming a lot of oil, when driven hard, not to much when putting around rural roads. Just replaced valve stem guides, did not help. Looking at swapping the 78 OM617, with the 84?? OM617. What problems, if any will I run across??

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Old 08-21-2016, 02:31 PM
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Serial number seems low for an '84.

I think the delivery valve holder style is an indicator of a Euro IP. Something about M-type and MW-type.

Sixto
83 300SD
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  #3  
Old 08-21-2016, 03:57 PM
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Can the Year be identified by the A/C being moved from upper passenger side, to lower drivers side of engine?? My limited knowledge leads me to believe that the upper passenger side location is up to early 81, 81 up had the lower driver side location. Is this true??? Just trying to fine approximate year, if it is a Euro, are most of the parts the same as a NA model?? Water pump, starter, Etc.
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Old 08-21-2016, 05:31 PM
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I'm guessing it's not in the car? If that's the case then it'll be easy to see the tag on the side of the injection pump and if it says MW or M. On the turbo engines at least, this will tell you if it's a Euro model or not. Obviously it could've been changed at some point, but it's a place to start.

-Rog
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Old 08-21-2016, 05:48 PM
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Based on the data I have, I am estimating the engine came out of an automatic trans 300D that was manufactured around July or August of 1979. You can see the actual casting date on the block right where the starter is.


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  #6  
Old 08-21-2016, 05:54 PM
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I can't see paying $500 for a 617 of unknown origin. You don't even know that it runs well or at all. $500 should buy you a running and well maintained rust bucket.

Sixto
83 300SD
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:03 PM
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It would have to be Euro if newer than'81. U S spec N/A engines ceased in the '82 model year, so that would make it an '81 or older if U S. You seem to have the exact opposite problem I had when doing an engine swap in a friends '80 wagon. I had a nice short block from a '78, but his old block had the R4 compressor. I used the older block, and sourced a York compressor bracket and thermostat housing in order to mount a Sanden compressor (York to Sanden adapter used), as there was no way to mount the R4 (or Sanden) on the block. You could still use your compressor mount and Tstat housing on the newer engine. However, the York compressors are known to be power robbers, and not that efficient. If it were me, I would keep the compressor in the R4 location, but retrofit to a Sanden and replace the hoses. Everything else should be bolt in, and interchange with no problem.
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:07 PM
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Is this it?



Sixto
83 300SD
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  #9  
Old 08-21-2016, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
I can't see paying $500 for a 617 of unknown origin. You don't even know that it runs well or at all. $500 should buy you a running and well maintained rust bucket.

Sixto
83 300SD
If the seller would get it running, then $500 might be a decent price. I personally would never buy an engine for more than scrap value if I can't hear it run.
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Is this it?



Sixto
83 300SD
Yes, that is the one. Would do compression check before buying. Seller crushed car, but thought it was a 84 300D. Engine looks to be in good shape. Non-Turbo

Have also tossed around the idea of finding a 81-85 turbo 300D, and replacing motor/tranni/rearend. Not alot of older low mileage MB's around, so would probably have to find one out on the west coast.

Right now motor swap is the quickest/easiest solution. Would not hook up A/C, do not need it here, but maybe a couple of days a year,
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Old 08-22-2016, 02:08 PM
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Engines on the ground require a lot of due diligence. You want the compression numbers and to hear it running.

Most may turn out to be little more than boat anchors otherwise. Now if the seller is known to be a friend and totally honest may sway things.

Five hundred up front Is far too great a risk with a stranger especially. It may be just scrap metal. It may be decent. You just have no way of knowing without testing.
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  #12  
Old 08-22-2016, 09:30 PM
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my best guess is that engine came from a 1980-81 300D non-turbo judging by the glow relay and the cruise actuator. This engine is slightly newer in that it has pencil system glow plugs which is a positive thing in my opinion.
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1979 280CE 225,200 miles
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1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

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  #13  
Old 08-23-2016, 12:41 PM
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Will a turbo engine not fit your 1978? Seems you could get a good turbo OM617 for <$500 and turbo is a great fit for diesel (more power w/ no efficiency loss). Downside is that NA are more reliable and less risk of being damaged if you must risk buying w/o testing it first. I wouldn't pay over $200 for an engine that has been left outside in the rain & snow. Water could have gone down the air cleaner into the cylinders. At least insure you can turn over the crank.
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  #14  
Old 08-23-2016, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Will a turbo engine not fit your 1978? Seems you could get a good turbo OM617 for <$500 and turbo is a great fit for diesel (more power w/ no efficiency loss). Downside is that NA are more reliable and less risk of being damaged if you must risk buying w/o testing it first. I wouldn't pay over $200 for an engine that has been left outside in the rain & snow. Water could have gone down the air cleaner into the cylinders. At least insure you can turn over the crank.
I have done it, and it is no problem if the donor car is available. Most everything is bolt on. The mounting brackets for the expansion tank will need to be cut from the donor, as well as all the turbo specific components (oil cooler, expansion tank and hoses, radiator etc) will need to be moved over. You will need to wire in the turbo glow plug relay, or just rig a manual push button to energize a Ford solenoid. Also, there is no mounting for one (or both) engine shocks. I just did without them, and I can't see them make any difference. Those are the big things, there may be more, but for the most part, it is a bolt in deal......Rich
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  #15  
Old 08-25-2016, 02:03 PM
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Arrow

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsky View Post
Motor #617 912 12 087 454 - can the year be varified with these numbers?
WDB12313012167614
Delivery date: 08.10.1979


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