Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-25-2016, 03:51 PM
funola's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
R12 vent temp 85 300D 38.5F @ 87F ambient

Just finished a 3 to 4 week long episode of work on my 85 300D's AC system by charging it with 2.9 lbs of R12 with a digital fishing scale. The only parts replaced in the system were all o-rings, Schrader valves, TXV and receiver dryer and PAO 68 synthetic oil that is suppose to be superior to mineral oil. It is note worthy that I used all the original hoses as well as the old R4 compressor, evaporator and condenser, which were pressure tested and found to have no leaks.

This video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAm8zPptXlM was taken on a 2 mile drive to Autozone to return the rental vacuum pump used to evacuate the system. It was 87F ambient, car was parked in the sun with windows closed and it cooled down to 38.5F center vent temp in 2 miles of city driving. Not bad at all! In a long highway cruise, I think the vent temp can get even lower.

Problem before was a slow leak that requires yearly topping up of refrigerant. I won't know if my work is successful for a few months or more.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-25-2016, 03:58 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Carolina
Posts: 1,549
Very nice!
__________________
Current fleet
2006 E320 CDI
1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped

former members
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro"
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-25-2016, 04:00 PM
funola's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
Very nice!
Very Cool!
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-25-2016, 04:06 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 687
Congrats!
__________________
'85 300D - federal spec, built in late 84. 85 300D Complete AC System Rebuild
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-25-2016, 07:11 PM
funola's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
These are most of the o-rings that were removed. As you can see, some are in really bad shape. I am betting on some of them being the cause of the slow leak. Time will tell.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-25-2016, 07:59 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 687
Was your car always running r12? Mine had been converted to r134a sometime in the past, but still had the old O rings, and they were all much worse than yours - eaten away to the point of not being able to use them to figure out the proper size for their replacements.
__________________
'85 300D - federal spec, built in late 84. 85 300D Complete AC System Rebuild
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-25-2016, 08:11 PM
funola's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
I bought it already converted to R134a, the receiver dryer and TXV had green o-rings, but the rest were the original black o-rings. If all o-rings were replaced with green o-rings when it was converted to R134, I may not have the slow leak that I had.

If your o-rings are worse than mine, maybe all you needed was a flush and new o-rings.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-25-2016, 08:32 PM
funola's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
R12 tank hanging on the $8 digital 0-80 lb fishing scale that was used to charge by weight. I checked it's accuracy against a 0-25 lb postage scale and it is within 0.2 oz of it. The scale reads 412.9 oz before I started charging, or 25.8 lbs, which exceeds the range of the postage scale by 0.8 lbs so I was not able to use the postage scale.

Edit: For anyone thinking of using a fishing scale, the reading does not change as the tank empties (nor does the postage scale). To get a reading, I shut off the valve on the manifold, unhook the tank, recycle power, hook the tank to get the new reading. I didn't want to spend the money for a proper digital scale for AC work, which is over $100. The fishing scale is accurate enough, just not as convenient but works fine.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Last edited by funola; 08-25-2016 at 09:29 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-25-2016, 08:39 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 687
I needed a bit more than o rings and a flush. My TXV leaked badly, the potential problem with the compressor, condenser fittings were real rough, one definite bad hose, the others were questionable. I still suspect my old evaporator was leaking and/or clogged, even after flushing it. Might rig up a pressure tester or at least pressurize it under water to check for leaks. Also tempted to cut the ends of the coils off to look for clogs if it does leak.
__________________
'85 300D - federal spec, built in late 84. 85 300D Complete AC System Rebuild
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-25-2016, 09:21 PM
funola's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
Definitely pressure test the evaporator. It would be interesting to cut the ends off the evaporator to see if you find clogs. Mine had some restrictions when I was pumping a mix of carb cleaner/mineral spirit, then Purple power degreaser through it. The only bits that came out were what looked like o-ring material. No big blobs. I don't know if a stop leak product was used during the conversion to 134a, but my suspicion is that it was.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-25-2016, 09:55 PM
funola's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
Without testing with tools that are trustworthy, you are only guessing if a particular component is bad. I had UV dye in the system, but there were no signs of dye anywhere. I then bought some Mega Bubbles, and did not find any leaks with it in the accessible places. The problem is that you cannot apply the bubble solution to every square inch of the AC system nor are you able to see every square inch. I then bought a $70 electronic refrigerant sniffer from HF. At first I thought it was a great tool, but with more familiarity with it, I find that it is not trustworthy with very small leaks. Maybe a more expensive sniffer will be more reliable, even those will have limitations for very small leaks IMO. That's when I decided to pressure test each component separately and to my surprise, nothing other than the o-rings are suspect.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-25-2016, 11:28 PM
funola's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
Quote:
Originally Posted by Demothen View Post
Was your car always running r12? Mine had been converted to r134a sometime in the past, but still had the old O rings, and they were all much worse than yours - eaten away to the point of not being able to use them to figure out the proper size for their replacements.
I hope you were not using the old orings to match up to new ones from an assortment kit. W123 AC uses #6, 8, 10, 12 orings and those are the only ones that will fit correctly. There is only one #6 oring in the system and it is on the evaporator side of the TXV.
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Last edited by funola; 08-26-2016 at 01:38 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-26-2016, 11:44 AM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
I hope you were not using the old orings to match up to new ones from an assortment kit. W123 AC uses #4, 6, 10, 12 orings and those are the only ones that will fit correctly. There is only one #6 oring in the system and it is on the evaporator side of the TXV.
As far as I know, the smallest Orings in the system are on the drier, condenser and TXV and are #6. I don't know where you got a #4 from. I believe there is a #8 on the TXV as well.
EDIT: Two #10, one #8, and one #6 on the TXV

Last edited by ROLLGUY; 08-26-2016 at 11:55 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-26-2016, 11:57 AM
funola's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Posts: 8,245
Smallest oring is #6 found on the blue hoses at receiver dryer. There is only one #8 oring on the evap side of the TXV. The other orings on the TXV are 2 #10
__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Last edited by funola; 08-26-2016 at 01:41 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-26-2016, 12:05 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
Smallest oring is #4 found on the blue hoses at receiver dryer. There is only one #6 oring as I said earlier on the evap side of the TXV. The other orings on the TXV are 2 #10 and a #8 iirc.
The drier (at least the driers I sell and every other one I have worked with) use a #6 fitting (thus a #6 Oring). It could be that all the #6 fittings and hose that I buy for the hose kits I make are all labeled and packaged wrong, but I highly doubt it. You must have a bastard liquid line with a #4 on one end, and a #6 on the other.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:42 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page