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To get the hose through, I used Petroleum jelly/Vaseline on the hose. Afterwards I cleaned off the hose thoroughly. Vaseline will not hurt the hose while it is on there for a short time.
Here is a picture of the grommet. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1473874391 Here is what is looks like new. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...97-12-81_a.jpg From this thread of firewall grommet part numbers. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/338588-w123-firewall-grommet-part-number.html . |
Any tips on installing the grommet, DeliveryValve? I got mine installed once but it was a huge nightmare. I tried paracord in the groove like you would install a windshield and that was my best result. I also used an old idler arm bolt with a washer fed from the inside of the car out to give me something to use as leverage.
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On one of my cars, I had the battery tray out when I ran the new suction hose thru the firewall, which is best since you also need to get at the clamp that secures it to the wheel well. Was an opportune time to treat the rust from battery drippings. I don't recall a problem popping the 3-hole rubber grommet back in place. I did use -12 "reduced barrier" hose, but I recall the fittings are what must be squeezed thru the hole. I wrapped the fitting in plastic to push thru while keeping the innards clean. I might have done that with the grommet not installed in the firewall.
You will find the AC crimper useful for replacing the oil cooler hoses too someday. Cut the upper one 1" longer (15"L, I recall) to better clear the p.s. belt. I used AC hose for it. You can also use it to crimp heater hoses to keep that factory look on newer cars, as I did on our 2002 T&C minivan. When you have a hammer, you find more nails. |
Bill,
I'm guessing you reinstalled the old bushing, rather than a new one? Maybe I just have really weak hands, but the new one is an absolute nightmare for me. |
Did you soak it in boiling water for a few minutes before installing the grommet?
Since you are replacing both hoses, install the grommet first, fish the hoses through grommer, then crimp the fittings on, connect them to the TXV, then measure cut hose to length on the other end, then crimp fitting on. |
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Cant do it in that order funola, need to have the hose off the car to crimp it. (My crimper needs to be in the bench vise). I think heating it and adding some silicone will work out.
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If so, you can use two 2 x 4's 3 ft long and a C clamp and free it from the bench. |
Correct, I re-used the factory rubber grommet. Sounds like the new ones are stiffer, or maybe the old ones soften over time. Thinking more, I probably installed the grommet first, then pushed the hoses thru (w/ fittings) The holes weren't too tight on the hose, indeed I recall wrapping some adhesive foam to help seal. I slid one grooved side of the grommet in, then worked the other side in w/ a screwdriver. I used the Master-Cool crimper in a bench vise. One could do it off the bench, holding the body w/ a large adjustable wrench (or pipe wrench) while turning the screw, but might need a helper. BTW, I slid black heat shrink over the new hose to simulate the abrasion poly sleeve that was on the factory hose, and don't forget to slide the rubber bouncer ring on before you crimp the fitting (ditto for the one on high-pressure hose).
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I ended up installing the bushing before crimping the hose, and even then I decided to cut the end of the bushing open a bit to slip it over the hose. I added the rubber bumper but forgot to put heat shrink on between the bumper and the bushing. Not sure if my heat shrink will fit over the bumper.
Not sure I actually had a bumper on the high pressure hose. I will look around but I bet it broke off at some point. |
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