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  #1  
Old 09-19-2016, 10:28 AM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
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Dried ethanol in fuel tank.

I've put a 617 in a gas body. 84 SD engine/transmission in an 85 380SE body. I'm not changing the tank. According to a few members here the diesel will eventually dissolve any of the amber like substance created when/if ethanol dries. This car has sat many years but it had run completely out of gas when I parked it last. The lines are open enough.

I have put five gallons of diesel in the tank after plugging the return and supply lines. How long do we think it will take for diesel to do the job of dissolving the buildup?

The SE's front end sits a little higher with the 5 cyl engine which makes me wonder if I should expect some vibration from the drive shaft due to the transmission yoke sitting a little higher in this body. As always, I appreciated any advise on these issues.

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  #2  
Old 09-19-2016, 10:41 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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I'd just run it and not worry about either situation. The ethanol whatever is left of it will liquefy and burn away, the front end won't hurt anything.
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #3  
Old 09-19-2016, 11:29 AM
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Ok.. I assume you are meaning gasoline instead of Ethanol.... as that is just alcohol... and I do not think it leaves any residue ....
I think Tom is correct... just drive it and keep the normal filters replaced regularly for a while in case something does come out of the bottom of that tank...

If you really did run it out of gas before it sat.... I suggest, once you have pulled out this initial ' dissolving' diesel fuel... that you keep the tank above half full for a while... just in case... but given you did not let an entire tank of gasoline evaporate from the tank... I think you have very little to worry about..

https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/ethanol
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  #4  
Old 09-19-2016, 12:04 PM
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I put a 617 in my SL and have had no fuel issues whatsoever. Still on the fuel filter I put in after getting the car on the road. It's got over 100k miles on it. Keep a spare one in the trunk though just in case...you'll be fine.
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  #5  
Old 09-19-2016, 01:02 PM
Shadetree
 
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The 3.8L engine was sputtering the last time I drove it. I knew it was going to sit dormant for a couple of years for interior remodeling.

It's so strange and nice to have three of our most esteemed members comment with such positivity. Thank you gentlemen.
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  #6  
Old 09-19-2016, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemson88 View Post
The 3.8L engine was sputtering the last time I drove it. I knew it was going to sit dormant for a couple of years for interior remodeling.

It's so strange and nice to have three of our most esteemed members comment with such positivity. Thank you gentlemen.
You make it sound like we are ' Chicken Little The Sky is falling' people...
but in a thread we are only going on what is said by the op... and for other people whose problem is close but not exactly the same... we are prone to list every possible problem we can think of...with similar symptoms ..... and issue the red flags also...
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  #7  
Old 09-19-2016, 07:52 PM
Shadetree
 
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Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
You make it sound like we are ' Chicken Little The Sky is falling' people...
but in a thread we are only going on what is said by the op... and for other people whose problem is close but not exactly the same... we are prone to list every possible problem we can think of...with similar symptoms ..... and issue the red flags also...
Sorry for laughing but I had no intention of misleading anyone. The positive response surprised me a bit but not because the three of you are doom and gloomers. It's because I expected someone to tell me that the front springs would have to be replaced to prevent drive shaft vibrations.

Honestly, I'm still a little shell shocked from having to learn to handle the wiring diagrams on both cars. I'm over that hump now and looking for the next mission impossible. It was quite a challenge to take so much of the wiring harness off the SD body and fish it though the fuse box on the SE.

Thanks again.
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  #8  
Old 09-19-2016, 08:13 PM
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The yellow stuff from old gasoline is varnish ( as in the stuff that is applied to wood ) Sitting 2 years isn't so bad, at least most of the fuel will still be liquid.

Carb cleaner will remove it, as will denatured alcohol. I'm not really sure what diesel will do. In any event sitting dormant with diesel fuel in it isn't likely to do much.

At least on later cars, the strainer in the tank has a coarse screen for diesel and fine for gas so changing it to coarse and swabbing the tank at the same time would be helpful.

Given the car has independent rear suspension, rear ride height won't affect driveshaft angularity. Front ride height will never change drive shaft angle regardless of rear suspension type.
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  #9  
Old 09-20-2016, 10:06 AM
Shadetree
 
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I've dealt with that varnish buildup in outboard and small engine carbs for years. I considered pouring a gallon of carb cleaner in the tank but I read such solvents would destroy the tank lining.

I appreciate you sharing the difference in the strainers between gas and diesel. I remember cleaning that strainer a few years ago when the hose attached to it had to be replaced. I'll put the diesel strainer on the gas tank.

After replacing the flex disk, carrier bearing and housing you'd think I'd understand that particular system. I guess my chicken little gene is acting up a bit.
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  #10  
Old 09-20-2016, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
You make it sound like we are ' Chicken Little The Sky is falling' people...
but in a thread we are only going on what is said by the op... and for other people whose problem is close but not exactly the same... we are prone to list every possible problem we can think of...with similar symptoms ..... and issue the red flags also...
I did not take it that way at all. I just figured he was referring to our advice that it was nothing to worry about.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #11  
Old 09-20-2016, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemson88 View Post

I appreciate you sharing the difference in the strainers between gas and diesel. I remember cleaning that strainer a few years ago when the hose attached to it had to be replaced. I'll put the diesel strainer on the gas tank.
Here you go

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  #12  
Old 09-20-2016, 12:25 PM
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Tom, I was going from his ' strange' comment ... like our response was unusually upbeat... lol
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  #13  
Old 09-20-2016, 01:34 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Hey if the shoe fits....
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #14  
Old 09-20-2016, 01:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
Hey if the shoe fits....
Oh No, not you too.....
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  #15  
Old 09-20-2016, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clemson88 View Post
I've dealt with that varnish buildup in outboard and small engine carbs for years. I considered pouring a gallon of carb cleaner in the tank but I read such solvents would destroy the tank lining.

Carb cleaner as in the "dip the parts in the can" type or " add this to gasoline"?

The dip type ( Methylene Chloride, the active ingredient in paint remover, sometimes called "carb acid" ) is pretty corrosive. I would not use it in a fuel tank as removing all of it would be difficult as some would hide in the tank seams.

I've had good successes with denatured alcohol ( Ethanol ) . It also removes rubber that has deteriorated through exposure to ethanol based fuels.

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