Two problems with om606 help!!! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jake12tech · #1 09-28-2016, 07:25 PM

Well guys I'm an idiot.. I for one shut my hood on my w210 after I removed the hood lock/latch between the horn and the fans and shut it all the way and dont know how to open the hood now and I need help on reopening it! When I click the hood release from the inside the car, there's no resistance like there was.

Also I was removing that piece and the tubing i posted in the pictures as I'm going to replace it since its causing an oil leak. As I was removing the tubing that goes into the valve cover and a very small piece fell off and fell into the valve cover. Is that going to cause me any huge issues if I let it be? Could it get in the engine somewhere and destroy it? I unbolted everything on the valve cover and it won't come off. Am I missing something? Is it just very heavy?

jay_bob · #2 09-28-2016, 08:09 PM

Hood: The center piece provides the upward pressure to make the hood spring upward to free the primary latches. Get a friend to operate the hood release while you lift the hood. This should allow you to get the hood open. When you pull the hood release it operates the primary latches on the left and right sides. The center piece is the secondary latch and the spring. Since the center piece is gone there is nothing to cause the hood to pop up and rest on the secondary latch (where the "tongue" pops out of the grill).

Valve cover: There are bolts around the perimeter then it does just lift off. It is aluminum, so not very heavy, but the gaskets can get sticky. There are 7 gaskets, one big one around the perimeter and 6 small ones on the injector wells.

jake12tech · #3 09-28-2016, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay_bob

Hood: The center piece provides the upward pressure to make the hood spring upward to free the primary latches. Get a friend to operate the hood release while you lift the hood. This should allow you to get the hood open. When you pull the hood release it operates the primary latches on the left and right sides. The center piece is the secondary latch and the spring. Since the center piece is gone there is nothing to cause the hood to pop up and rest on the secondary latch (where the "tongue" pops out of the grill).

Valve cover: There are bolts around the perimeter then it does just lift off. It is aluminum, so not very heavy, but the gaskets can get sticky. There are 7 gaskets, one big one around the perimeter and 6 small ones on the injector wells.

Thanks for your response Jay. I'll take a look into that tomorrow. I think the gaskets are all sticky and hard to get loose that's why it's harder to remove with all the permiter bolts loosened. Is it imperative that I remove that small piece that fell in the valve cover opening from the PCV boot? its so tiny about the size of my thumb nail. I don't want to do any damage. I have a couple days anyway before the tubing comes.

jt20 · #4 09-28-2016, 09:22 PM

That piece that fell - it isn't a serious issue. Most likely, the worst case scenario is that it spends the next couple years partially clogging up your oil pump intake. - if it even makes it down there. There are so many places in the head it will get caught in before that.

Would I open up the valve cover to get it? yes.

Does it pose a threat to engine longevity ? 8/100

if you don't currently have the injection lines off - not worth it.

Be prepared to reseal the cover someday in the future and hope to get it then.

I would prob spend a couple hours trying to fish it out with wire and a some prayers

tjts1 · #5 09-28-2016, 11:16 PM

The plastic crankcase ventilation always leaks even when its new. I replaced it with a 1/2" brass elbow and hose, no more leaks.
http://i.imgur.com/0XZ98Of.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2OltI59.jpg

treetops · #6 09-29-2016, 08:07 AM

I had a similar experience with that crusty baked thru rubber/plastic (or it was when new). I too broke the end going into the valve cover and the one on the opposite end headed to the turbo. I was going to replace them, but was able to fashion connections with larger diam. rubber tubing.

Not 100% sure but I think the bit that fell off into the valve cover maybe it bit bigger than you think, perhaps a 1/4"+ in length or so. I say this because if the piece going into the valve cover (#35 in the diagram) is the same size as the one is circled (#71) then you may really want to fish it out from under the head cover.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/129148d1430858010-om606-brittle-rubber-ccv-bends-ccv-hose2.jpg

jay_bob · #7 09-29-2016, 07:19 PM

The link treetops shows is for the 95-97 N/A engine and then has another view for the 98-99 turbo style.

The 98-99 turbo breather is a single connection at the rear of the valve cover, (#35) that goes through a puck (#30) bolted roughly over top of cylinder #5, then goes forward (#65 and 68) and angles out (#71) at an exit point across from cylinder 1 injector. This goes into the intake tract (#74) just ahead of the turbo inlet.

The 95-97 breather outlet goes to the plumbers nightmare where it is shot into the intake manifold at all 12 points above the intake valves.

The engine inlet side of the breather is the same for both engine types.

I suspect the part that fell in would be #35, that is the only part that penetrates the valve cover on a 98-99 engine.

Also for the OP: if you pull the valve cover you will need one #17 and six #23, these are the seals around the injector wells. These can leak and if they do, the injector wells will fill up with lube oil.