spin on fuel filter not spinning on
 

a while ago I ordered the Mann filter from pelican for my 82 300D - part 001-092-32-01-M63

yesterday, I changed my two fuel filters. the spin on Mann would not go on. I'd get about 2 turns of the bolt threaded and just reach an immediate hard stop - literally like the threads were incompatible. I checked and doubled checked for possible cross threading, i never forced anything hard. In the end, it just wouldn't go on - so I had to put the old filter back on. That old one went back on smooth and works with no leaks.

I ordered the Mann filter back in May from pelican, not sure I can return it - but is it possible that I just got a defective filter? Is there any other possibility? Could I have a filter bolt from a different vehicle year, hence the incompatibility? The one on there now is from PO - when I bought car in MAY - it's branded from Carquest. Could that filter have somehow damaged the bolt's threads, making it no longer able to thread into the correct filter?

I'm stumped.

Try to hand thread a lug bolt into the new filter (M14 X 1.5), if it binds its a defective fuel filter.
Chasing the threads with a M14 X 1.5 tap may save it.

If the lug bolt doesn't bind (unlikely from what you described) you probably have a defect on the fuel filter banjo bolt.
The threads may need to be cleaned up with a M14 X 1.5 die.

I had that happen. Sometimes the threads are screwed up on either the new filter or your bolt. Just go buy another filter locally even if it is of lesser quality than the Mann (is supposed to be). The price won't be worth the hassle or cost of shipping. Write it off and move on - but check the threads closely on the bolt and filter. There are also other filters that only differ in the threads and one may have been misprinted (number) or in the wrong box.

Thanks Alec. I picked up a die and cleaned up the bolt. Went on as expected now. Thing leaks a bit - think I need new copper crush washer. Anyone know the exact size or part I should order for that?

Assuming you have the 615-092-01-08 fuel filter head:

The hollow bolt takes a 18 x 22 x 1.5 mm aluminum sealing ring
sold by our forum sponsor

Don't forget to replace the o-ring as well.

On 11/17/2014, I sourced some Viton ones from Global O-Ring and Seal
(2.5 mm CS X 10 mm ID) and can part with some.

Send me a PM, if you would like a few.

The photo shows the hollow bolt on the left, new crush washer and Viton o-ring in the center and on the right the old deformed aluminum crush washer and old hardened broken o-ring
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...9&d=1476593758

DO NOT CHASE THE THREADS IN THE FILTER WITH A TAP AND THEN USE THE FILTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You'll dump chips into the filter and will NEVER be able to get them out. These chips will not be caught in the filter, as fuel passes through the filter from the outer passages to the center hollow bolt. The metal chips you create and dump into the filter will be washed directly into your injection pump.

Just buy another filter. Seems like a pain now, wait until you fubar your injection pump. You'll sure be wishing you'd have just bought another filter.

thanks for all the replies. i cleaned up the bolt threads, ordered new ring and washers. I'm also going to just install new filter since I did chase that a little and don't want to risk getting shavings in the IP.

another thing that happened while I was changing my filters - I needed some diesel fuel to fill the filter, so I siphoned a bit from my tank. After I did this, I noticed a whole bunch of brown particles swimming around my brand new pre-filter. I've figured now that when I put the hose in to siphon, I must have hit the bottom of tank and disturbed/rustled up some garbage. Does this seem likely?

Yup, that's exactly what happened.

Prefilling the spin on filter is discouraged, as you're filling from a non-clean source. Just oil the gasket a little bit like you would an oil filter, spin it on, and pump the primer a bit longer than you would have to if you didn't prefill. I've also read of people dumping the contents of their old fuel filter into their new one to prefill, obviously don't do that either.

You might want to order a second filter, it's good practice to carry a spare with you. Some people go for years without a filter change without issue, others have been stalled flat multiple times. I carry a spare even though I have a new tank and lines, you just never know when you're going to get a bad load of fuel. Since you just found out what kind of junk is in your fuel tank, in your situation I would DEFINITELY be carrying a spare. Carrying a spare filter can be the difference between being stuck on the side of the road for a few minutes and then on your way again, or having to get a tow.

When I first got my SD, we were driving from NC to TN. I had just bought and was driving my 00 Ram with a Cummins and my wife was driving the SD which started having acceleration issues until it wouldn't go over 40 mph with the pedal through the floor. I had tools but no access to information. I ended up renting a tow dolly from U-haul since no flat beds were available. I drove the SD onto the dolly and spent a couple of hours figuring out how and dropping the drive shaft. The temp was in the 90s.

I had to pay for a hotel and rent the dolly 1 way which is more expensive than dropping it off at the same location as pickup. A few dollars for a fuel filter would have saved a lot of aggravation. Today's phone would have provided the information. Live and learn.

yeah, definitely carrying a spare from now on. also wondering if I should clean my fuel tank.

I always pre-fill a new fuel filter to ease starting, but I fill it with additive. My fav is optilube xpd. It doesn't get burned straight, most of it gets recirculated back into the fuel tank via the return line.

Yup, lots of people prefill, lots of people have been taught and are teaching others to prefill, that's how I did it when I first started my diesel adventures. For the most part I'm sure it's mostly harmless, at least with our old IDI engines. It's still not best practice. Dump your additive in the tank and use your priming pump to fill your filter.

One more reason to use clear rather than translucent primary screens ~ you'll see the crud before it brings you to a halt .

I always carry spare intake screens but not the spin on secondary filters .

When I change my spin-on filter, I pre fill it with ATF from a new bottle.
Then you know it is clean.
Screw it on and start the engine.

Never pre fill from a spare fuel can or siphone fuel from the fuel tank.
And I remember on an old thread several yrs ago some one dumping the fuel from the old filter into the new one.
That is a big no no. You are just dumping crap into the new filter.

Having clean fuel cannot be stressed enough.

I'm sorry, I've known ATF to mean automatic transmission fluid. You didn't mean that right? I could fill it with some moly purge, seems like that couldn't hurt.

On the subject of washers. I picked up both aluminum and copper ones of the correct size. Earlier in this thread it was stated aluminum was correct. Copper had been on mine before. Is there a right material, or does it not really matter?