hey guys heres some pictures of what I did all summer after buying a 300TD with a blown engine. I took the engine out of my old 300SDL which the trans quit on me. After getting the engine installed the trans went on the wagon, due to the rad mixing trans fluid and water.. It lasted 12 miles before it started slipping. Then we took a trans out of a different donor SDL, swapped the tails so the speedo will work, and now ive put about 200 miles on her. Theres still a good amount of work to be done, but I've been very anxious to drive the damn thing. We still have to clean up the engine bay a little, figure out the vacuum lines, only the front brakes work and the pads are pretty shot, new pads and rotors for all 4 corners are on the way along with brake master cylinder. Theres some noise coming from the rear along with the backbreaking failed SLS which we will swap to bilstein sport shocks, some interior TLC one window doesnt work, and the stereo needs an upgrade, then time will tell what else needs attention.

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my plans are to get nice wheels, bumpers, euro lights, a fender with the slits from the 2.5 turbo w124(if they fit:confused:), and take her from 137k to join the million mile club lol I should have started a thread when I got the car in June, so I'll just keep updating from now on

Lots of work. I know!
I hope you still have the original air filter! I recommend putting it back on. Also, you should replace the serpentine belt tensioner assembly, or at least the pivot bearing, and the shock. Also, you have the DREADED imploding vacuum pump... I would not start the car before replacing it!!!

What is wrong with your SLS? I have three of the wagons... that sls is wonderful!

I'm not exactly sure whats wrong with the SLS.. the car is very bouncy(isn't sagging though) and I know the system can get expensive to fix, but before scrapping it I'm going to try switching the hydraulic res, as the previous owner gooped it up with JB weld or something, and its still leaking. I should definitely change the vac pump its making a ticking noise, and I've read some of the air filter wars lol I like the wooshy turbo noises the cone makes. I didn't add one of the first things I did once I got her running was drop it at the shop for 2.5" straight pipe so she sounds great.

The problem is likely the spheres, which serve the same purpose as shock absorbers in a normal suspension. They arent expensive and as ling as the fittings arent rusted solid, easily changed out. )

I saw on *********.com the hydropneumatic shocks are almost 500$ not sure if thats for one or two.. by spheres do you mean that, or the accumulator, which is about 80$ on *********?

you guys have any good sites to browse for parts? I always check *********, ********az, and ********

whoops I guess those sites are a no no lol

The things at control arms look like shocks, and are variously referred to in as struts or shocks. In fact, they are really hydraulic rams that primarily work to control ride height. The "spheres" or accumulators, are what actually control the bounce.

The spheres are the $80 acumulators you saw. When they go they usually result in a bouncy ride, followed eventually by a very hard ride. If the rams aren't leaking just replace the spheres and you'll Likely be good to go. It's a very robust system that rarely causes any real issue.

Ok thanks for the info guys I'm still leaning towards regular bilsteins since I'm poor and cheap but the sls is cool maybe I'll get new accumulators.. I'll have to talk to my buddy that's been helping me, although I'm helping him since he's head mechanic lol



Would the Rams probably look wet if they were leaking, or would they only leak with functioning accumulators¿

Ok had a Sunday to dedicate to the old girl, new brake master cylinder, have all new pads/ rotors on 4 corners, new calipers up front.. New brake line going to passenger side back wheel.. Had trouble bleeding couldn't get back brakes to squeeze and kept getting air. After reading online I'm hoping it's because I didn't fill the res enough as it has the 2 chambers. Hopefully tomorrow after work that issue will be resolved, then I'm ordering bilstein sport shocks for the rear ^_^

If you do go this route (and again, I suggest you don't) you'll need different springs as well. The ones an the SLS are different and aren't meant to support the weight of the vehicle the way a regular spring is.

Regardless of the accumulators, the rams would be wet if they were leaking. If the wagon sits level, and the only fault is the bouncy ride, I really really suggest you just replace the accumulators. The SLS system is near bulletproof....

I second what everyone says about sls. 300TD was bouncy. Picked up a 2nd hand pair of sls (they're NOT $80 up here in Carbon tax land) and installed them. Like night and day. Amazingly plush ride with great control around corners etc.


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Another vote for SLS. With no SLS the rear will sag, the SLS system carries part of the load even when the wagon is empty, without it will sag and you will lose suspension travel. Beside that, you will lose much of the wagon's ~1,000lb carrying capacity as you'll be sitting on the snubbers and shining your headlamps in everyone's eyes.

If the dampers aren't wet, they aren't leaking. If pump and valve are working, just replace the spheres and be finished, ... much easier than replacing both dampers and both springs just to have a partially-functional wagon (in my opinion anyway, I've had a couple of these, have serviced spheres and dampers, well worth it).

If you need dampers, valve, or pump David Hendy on this site is often parting cars, and with the low value in an early 300TE, they're in junkyards (same suspension). I do not recommend used spheres.