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#31
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So it actually got down into the high 40s last night. I paid attention to the brightness of the interior light during the glow cycle this morning, there was absolutely no change in its brightness. With the Zero working knowledge I have of diesels, I'm gonna say I have a bad glow plug or two. I hit the glow cycle one time, cranked on it for six seconds and it almost started. Let it glow again, then it started in about five seconds and was quite grumpy and rough for a few moments.
Damn this cold weather! I appreciate the input from everyone, thank you much. I will take it to the mechanic as it's due for an oil change and let him smooth it out for me.
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior. |
#32
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Hook up a test light to a glow plug and turn key to glow. If it lights up, more than one glow plug is burned out. Buy a set of Bosch or Beru and replace them all.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#33
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👍🏼
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior. |
#34
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Quote:
Inquiring minds wish to know! Kurt
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- '79 240D - engine swap complete! Engine broken in! 28-31 mpg! Lovin' the ride! - '86 190D (W201-126) - 2.5 NA engine, 5 speed, cloth interior, manual climate controls, 33-34 mpg (sold to forum member). |
#35
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With the wisdom given relating to the relay click and to watch the interior light... Now I don't think the glow plugs work at all, because there is no click to end the glow cycle and the lights do not get brighter nor does it make any difference on these chilly mornings if I cycle it three or four times before I start it.
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior. |
#36
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With the diesel, I believe you always hold the accelerator down just a tad to start. My 1981 300SD starts in about half a second so the start and the push on the accelerator is almost simultaneous. When the valves needed adjusting, it started the same but would die unless I gave it a medium amount of throttle until the engine got warm; after adjusting the valves, that necessity went away. I have about 269K on it now.
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#37
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Finally got the car in the shop, not one of the glow plugs was working. Even in freakishly cold 40° Mornings the car still started in 8 to 10 seconds with no glow plugs.
The big upside is the mechanic found a missing bushing in the throttle linkage that is shorting me about 30% of the throttle. He seems to think the car will go from obscenely slow to just ridiculously slow. You gotta love that.
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior. |
#38
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If you actually want to know how the MB engineers felt about the glow plugs...
They have a chart in the FSM which shows the temperatures they typically reach at certain number of seconds ' on '.... Somewhere it recommends that you leave the glow plugs on for one minute. That is how long it takes to get to their max temperature.. Just once during your really 'cold' 40 degree start... use a WATCH and time 45 seconds ' on ' .... then try it... ignore the lights , the clicks, all the other stuff.. see if that makes any difference... My 81 wagon acted slightly different at 40 degrees and below....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=156207&highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#39
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At least to 35*F my '83 SD will start with ease glowing only as long as the dash light is lit, my right foot on the brake pedal (haven't tried with my left foot) and no throttle pedal assist.
Does rack damper tension have any bearing on starting? Does a 240D have a rack damper? Sixto 83 300SD |
#40
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Quote:
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior. |
#41
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On the plus side, at least you know the engine is pretty healthy if it starts with no glow plugs at 40˚!
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#42
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US spec 617 turbo IPs if not all 617 IPs have a bolt with a springy tip that threads into the tail end of the IP. The springiness and how far the bolt is threaded smooth idle. Beyond a point, rack travel is restricted causing less power per unit of pedal input with no further improvement in idle smoothness. As to what it does in technical terms, I don't know beyond damping the rack 60x engines with electronic idle control don't have an adjustable or externally replaceable rack damper.
Sixto 83 300SD |
#43
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The car is healthy, it took 8-10 seconds to start in low 40°s with no glow. It uses a quart of oil every 2,500 miles, of course I know nothing about diesels but that seems to be pretty good for a vintage car.
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1981 240D Four on the floor, Orient Red over Parchment, bought with 154,000 but it's a daily driver and up to 180,000 miles, mostly original paint and all original interior. |
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