Re-sealing injection pump OM602
 

I've recently got my $300 300D running like a cherry almost with the exception of needing some new injectors with three cans of diesel purge, draining the tank, and replacing the filters.

Pressure washed the motor recently to look for any problematic oil leaks and found some leaks. So far a PS leak, and an IP leak that is an issue. Neither affect drivability, but I don't want this car to continually stain my driveway.

The IP is leaking. I'm assuming it needs to be re-sealed. Is this doable for a DIY mechanic? I have every hand-tool imaginable and any air tool you'll need, but I don't have a lot of "special" tools for MB.

What is the difficulty and would my best bet be taking it to my friend who is long time MB mechanic who could cut me a deal on labor?

Anything is doable, depends on how much work you want to do. Where is it leaking? It's pretty common for these pumps to leak from the delivery valve seals (where the five high pressure lines attach). Doing these seals requires a special tool to remove the splined valve holders, but is otherwise straightforward. Unless you've worked on another Mercedes IP, you won't have the tool in your kit.

The delivery valve seals do leak. That's is on my to-do list as well. That's a job myself, but removing the pump to reseal it is out of my capability. I simply don't have $400 to buy the A-B timing tool from MB or see the point to spend that $$$. It's leaking the driver side and leaking oil.

I'm not opposed to doing hard work at all, just $400 tools are up to the folks who have it. It started running poorly again today, I didn't see the algae that's in the tank, the pre-filter is black again. I'm going to remove the tank, clean it, replace all the filters and rubber lines and run some Diesel-Kleen the the steel lines from dumping it in the tank. Purge again, new filters again etc.

I've had questions about a leaky injection pump on my 87 300SDL. One mechanic said he didn't have the speacial machine or tool, and would have to eyeball it, making marks of some kind. He said the job would take 3 hours ($330), and only involves 6 seals as parts.

The second mechanic I went to wants the car for the day, would charge $400 and replaces parts including fuel filters, which he insists must be done after this kind of fix.
Also important, he says, is properly torquing the screws or bolts upon sealing the pump.

No need to spend $400 to redo the delivery valve seals, the tool is a 33 spline socket (IIRC) and can be purchased for ~$25. You don't have to remove the IP to do those.

DV seals a super easy with the special socket and a torque wrench. As for the oil leaks... I had some oil coming out mine from the driver side. Looks like a square plate with a few flat head screws. Tightened each screw a bit. Seems to have stopped most of the leaking.

There is a Fuel Injection Pump Timing/Licking Pin that you can buy for about $37.
The Delivery Valve Sockets are less then $30 if you get one made bay Lazer Tools.
Or if one of our members has both in the tool rental section you could rent both from one member.


If you want to see what the Timing Locking Pin looks like you can go up to the parts tab and peachparts sells it so you can see a pic of it. It screws into the same port as the A&B Light does.


There is instructions on changing the Delivery Valve Seals in the repair links. Besides the mentioned delivery valve socket you need an inch pound torque wrench of decent quality.

Thanks folks for the responses. I spoke with my neighbor who has an OM606. He did the delivery valve seals, which looks simple. He was telling me there's a torque procedure. Would his socket work on my OM602 for the OM606 Deliv. Valves?

Also, I've seen the locking tool.. Found one for $30-40. How does that work? You plug it into the governor, holds the timing in place I'd assume?

May I Chime In?
 

DV seals are very easily done. I'm trying to located a gasket for the bottom plate on my IP on the 602. I can get every gasket and seal except that one for some reason. Any leads as to where to get that gasket?

More than just holds, it holds it in a reference position. With the lock in place, the crank damper indicator should be at 14*ATDC #1 (not to be confused with the start of delivery spec of about 24* BTDC). It's as precise an IP timing tool as the A-B light though not as easy to use.

Sixto
83 300SD

Here is a pics of the timing locking pin; see the thread.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/369233-ip-install-locking-tool-weird-teeth-off-mark.html

Also you should have a sticker under the hood that tells you what the timing is.

Also the Timing Locking Pin does not come with instructions.

The Delivery Valve Socket is the same and also your Neighbor likely has the Torque Wrench needed for the job. If you can get him to coach you if you do the job.

Repair Links
Fast navigation http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/146034-fast-navigation-do-yourself-links.html

Diesel911, sixto, oilslick. Thank you all for your responses and knowledge. Seems like cake! I will be borrowing the socket and doing this within the next week or two. I'm gonna order it tomorrow along with some other odds and ends this car needs. I will update this thread if there's any problems, but looks simple enough. I'm trying to get this car roady ready before Christmas to drive it to NC. Otherwise, I'll just drive my '98 but would like to see how this performs on trips.

Jake12tech
 

I was just wondering if you were able to seal up your IP? I just removed my OM602 IP today and replaced all the gaskets. Hopefully I got all the leaks stopped. I hope your project has gone well.

Nope not yet. Haven't had much time with this car sadly. My health has been getting in the way. There's some kind of oil leak on the bottom of the pump plus the delivery valves that are always wet.