"box" on back of IP blocking access to bolt, preventing timing adjustment

[240dddd]

I'm working on drip timing my OM617 and the IP has a box attached to the back of it (between the engine and IP) which is restricting access to one of the bolts I need to loosen in order to adjust the IP. Below is a pic of my IP and I circled the box I am referring to. I think it is an emissions part, but whatever it is I cannot figure a way to get on the bolt that is to the left of it.

Does anyone know whether this part can be removed? It looks like a PO cut whatever wires were coming out of it. Or are there any tricks to getting at that bolt?

[DeliveryValve]

That is called a Rack Position Sensor and it's pretty tricky to remove. I usually get at that bolt with some long extensions and a swivel socket.


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[240dddd]

After some more searching I've determined this is the rack position sensor that would have had something to do with the EGR (which has been deleted from this engine).

Can I remove it? If I remove it by taking out the small hex head bolts will the internals of the IP be exposed, or is it simply mounted to the side?

[240dddd]

what is tricky about removing it?

[Rogviler]

I made a custom wrench to get to that bolt on mine. Basically, I bent a 13mm box wrench almost 90 degrees, then cut it short and welded that to the end of a big screwdriver again at about 90 degrees. So it goes up from the bolt, then forward, then up again. That way it worms around the front of said annoying box.

I'd be interested in removing it too though, if it's possible.

-Rog

[DeliveryValve]

Originally Posted by 240dddd

what is tricky about removing it?

There is a bunch of electrical lines that go from that box and soldered in the IP. You'll basically rip them out if you unscrew the box. Then you'll need to fabricate a cover for the hole since you won't be able to get the box back on.


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[240dddd]

Good to know, i'll leave it alone then.

I finally got the right combination of extensions to go over that bolt and break it free enough to rotate the IP.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by Rogviler

I made a custom wrench to get to that bolt on mine. Basically, I bent a 13mm box wrench almost 90 degrees, then cut it short and welded that to the end of a big screwdriver again at about 90 degrees. So it goes up from the bolt, then forward, then up again. That way it worms around the front of said annoying box.

I'd be interested in removing it too though, if it's possible.

-Rog

Yes, here is a pic of the commercial version.

[Rocket99]

I used two ratchet wrench extentions with a swivel between them .

YOu have to use a bit of coathanger wire to fish the socket up, get it engaged with the bolt.

A gear wrench ratching box wrench is good for the clamping bolt at rear the faces the oil filter tower

[Rogviler]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Yes, here is a pic of the commercial version.

I have one like that but it wouldn't get to the bolt in question. My 90 degree bends go the other direction: up, then toward the front of the car, then up again.

-Rog

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by Rocket99

I used two ratchet wrench extentions with a swivel between them .

YOu have to use a bit of coathanger wire to fish the socket up, get it engaged with the bolt.

A gear wrench ratching box wrench is good for the clamping bolt at rear the faces the oil filter tower

That is what I use.

[BillGrissom]

I know what you mean. My 1984 has that rack position sensor and my 1985 doesn't, but only because it has a replacement engine (~1982). In the 1985, that nut was so easy w/ a 3/8" socket wrench. In the 1984, I had to keep flipping a box wrench to tediously turn 1/16 each time, unless I resorted to a crow's foot (forgot). You only need to loosen the nut enough to rotate the IP, but loosen enough so you don't risk shearing the gasket seal and causing a bigger head-ache (oil leak). And don't forget the rear bolt, which was also fun. I recall loosening it from below.