Afterglow
 

Most of it is in http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/236848-w124-om603-afterglow-diy.html. Much of this thread is about homemade afterglow for early 124s (and 123s, I suppose) but post #13 and following describe the afterglow li8ght. If all of the "slots" in the cluster are already in use, you'll have to sacrifice one or put the light elsewhere.

You can break into the 6-pin glow relay connector and solder a wire to any one of the 6 pins; whenever the glow plugs are energized, the light in the dash will be illuminated. Another option that doesn't involve soldering: carefully make a loop of solid wire around the #1 pin of the glow plug connector, connect it to stranded wire, run it into the cabin. Here's a photo of this technique used with a relay (different project!):

http://i323.photobucket.com/albums/n...psh3vouzps.jpg

Another forum member made a mod using the existing Glow light. During "afterglow" it illuminates the light at half-brightness. Saves running an extra wire. I find using a second light for afterglow adds an additional layer of security, especially in cases of a stuck-on preglow relay.

Jeremy

Thanks for the link and description. I like the idea of adding that extra light. I'll check that thread out.

Completed the first two gaskets on side of IP with IP on vehicle. Once the IM was removed, I put an oil pan under the car to catch oil from IP and any fuel from fuel lines/fuel pump/fuel shut off. I sprayed carb cleaner over the work area to remove any dirt/debris. Clamped the fuel lines, disconnected the fuel lines from the fuel pump, fuel shut off. Removed fuel shut off, removed fuel pump, removed side plate. Reverse order.

I would recommend having O-rings for the fuel lines and shut off if they are very old. Also will need a IM gasket if you take that off. Good time to evaluate the glow plugs.

I went underneath for the bottom plate, but without taking off the IP, it is not accessible UNLESS you have a T30 that looks like a hex wrench. With that said, while I was trying to see what would work, I noticed that the two bolts on the outside of the plate were LOOSE, so I tightened them up. Just got back from a 40 mile trip and NO LEAKS!! If the bottom plate does leak in the future, I will come up with a tool to remove it without taking off the IP.

part # for the side plate A 001 074 37 80
part # for the fuel pump A 000 091 17 80

Thanks for posting the IP pics. I was wondering what was between the shut-off valve and the IP - yet another o-ring! This project is on my list of things to next year, along with rebuilding the lift pump while it's off.

Lights
 

I have several other lights:

• Coolant over-temperature (illuminates when the aux electric fan(s) turn on in high speed)
• Low oil pressure (blinks bright red if the oil pressure drops below 1 bar/15 psi)
• Compressor clutch is engaged (saves looking under the hood to see if the compressor is turning or not)
• Aux fan ON in low speed mode (triggered by a pressure switch in the refrigerant line)

These are primarily objects of interest—for example, if it is only a moderately warm day, a good a/c system will get the evaporator core down to where freeze-up is possible. In the W124 and other models, the climate control system has a temperature sensor that says, "Hey, the evaporator is about to freeze up, better turn off the compressor's electric clutch" and the green LED winks off. This happens more often that I thought until I had one to watch.

The blinking red LED for oil pressure failure could save me an engine if I notice it in time. Some owners have installed a loud buzzer, which is harder to ignore.

Jeremy

I read the preglow/afterglow light thread - good one. Thanks again for posting the link. I need to look at the W210 E300's cluster to see if there's a blank light socket I could use for an afterglow indicator. Those other warning lights are all good ideas. Appreciate you sharing the ideas.