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  #1  
Old 12-18-2016, 02:06 PM
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Air in System? Not overheating

99 E300. Just replaced coolant, and radiator. Air in the cooling system now I think. Here's the weird thing, I have heat. I revved it for a minutes straight with the cap off and heat on, no bubbling. About 2500RPMs and various lower RPMs.

Top hose and lower hoses get luke warm if warm at all. Car doesn't get up to temp. Any ideas? SHould I jack it up on stands and rev it? Is there a bleeder valve for this car?

Only thing else I can think of is a thermostat. It was fine prior and car heated up accordingly. I have one if I need to try and replace it.

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Old 12-18-2016, 02:39 PM
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I'm sure you'll get some realistic ideas, but just to show that you never know... When I replaced all my hoses, radiator, pump, and thermostat the car was running fine for awhile but then all of a sudden it wouldn't get hot at all. I puzzled over it for awhile, then finally checked what I thought it was. Turns out a rock had lodged in the thermostat, wedging it open.

So your first suspicion could be correct, even if it's not always quite what you expect.

-Rog
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Old 12-18-2016, 04:14 PM
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Yours might be different than my '97 OM 606, but mine has a bleed bolt right behind where the upper rad hose connects to the head. It is a large hex head bolt.
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelbur View Post
Yours might be different than my '97 OM 606, but mine has a bleed bolt right behind where the upper rad hose connects to the head. It is a large hex head bolt.
I will take a look and see. I swear I've seen it before.
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2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k
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Old 12-18-2016, 07:06 PM
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Can you bleed air through the small hose between the radiator and reservoir? It's usually up pretty high.

Sixto
83 300SD
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  #6  
Old 12-18-2016, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelbur View Post
Yours might be different than my '97 OM 606, but mine has a bleed bolt right behind where the upper rad hose connects to the head. It is a large hex head bolt.
I don't see it. Can you post a picture? My 98 bled a lot easier after a clutch and radiator replacement. I just ran it at 2500RPMs and it bled in a couple minutes.

Sixto: Do you mean the hose on top of the radiator? That goes to the overflow bottle? Or the one on the bottom? If so, wouldn't coolant pour out of there as I bleed it?
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2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k
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Old 12-19-2016, 12:16 AM
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I meant to leave the small hose off while filling then connect it when coolant spills out of the radiator fitting. Give the coolant level time to settle before deciding that it's at the level of the radiator fitting. You might try it now on a cold engine.

Sixto
83 300SD
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  #8  
Old 12-19-2016, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
I don't see it. Can you post a picture? My 98 bled a lot easier after a clutch and radiator replacement. I just ran it at 2500RPMs and it bled in a couple minutes.
Here's a pic of a '98 engine (attached). I added the red arrow that points to the location but it lacks the bleeder screw. Maybe they did away with this screw on the turbos?
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Air in System? Not overheating-screen-shot-2016-12-19-09.13.30.jpg  
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  #9  
Old 12-19-2016, 11:41 AM
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I have had to once bleed my partners 97 e300td om606 by loosening and then peeling back without removing the highest hose on the duo valve (pop a thin screwdriver under hose and lever a small gap) to clear system of air.
I fully expected it to be an easy fill and self bleed but it turned into a bit of a nightmare not taking coolant from header tank until in desperation I loosened that duo valve hose , its the highest point in the cooling system.
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Old 12-19-2016, 12:14 PM
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The best way to fill the cooling system is to create a total vacuum in it and use the vacuum in your cooling system to suck in the coolant. You can be sure there will be no air in the system because there was none to start with.

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