So I have just had a bunch of work done on my 99 e300td. The mechanic who did the work told me that when he was finished he went to start the car there was a fuel leak. It appears to be coming from where the second metal line is screwed into the little block (not sure what that part is) on the driver's side of the engine block. Sorry for the bad photos. What is this little block the metal lines screw into and any idea why the second line is leaking? Bad gasket, oring? How difficult is it to replace and should I replace all of them?

Either one of two things:

1 Your delivery valve seals are failing. This requires the line and the delivery valve to be removed, and a new copper washer and oring installed. Should be done on every line, as they all age at the same rate. Requires a torx bit to remove the keepers and a special splined socket to remove the valves. It's pretty common.

2 The line is developing a crack, and must be replaced pronto.

Good news: even if you don't DIY, these are inexpensive repairs.-

The block is the injection pump. What work was done? It might have led to the line fitting being loose or not being refitted properly. It's unlikely any work done caused a delivery valve to leak.

Sixto
83 300SD
98 E320 wagon

I had the water pump and thermostat replaced, motor mounts and transmission mounts, transmission fluid, filter, and pan gasket replaced, fuel filter and prefilter replaced. Also one of my hood catches was acting up and the mechanic said he spent quite a bit of time getting my hood to open and he had to go manually unlatch it from the underside of the vehicle. Sound like any of that could have disturbed the line? Can anyone advise me of what parts I should order from pelican? Thanks so much for taking the time to read and advise.

None of those tasks requires touching injector lines. First thing to do is clean and dry the area well so you can find the source of the leak. Brake parts cleaner spray should do it. It'll either leak from the gap between the line and the tightening nut or the splined barrell below this fitting. If the line is leaking, loosen the line with a 14mm wrench then retighten. I'm sure there's a torque spec but I don't know it and I've not had a problem going by feel. I call it a little beyond snug. Make sure all lines are properly clamped besides at the end fittings! If that doesn't stop the leak, you might need a new line. If the delivery valve holder is leaking, you'll need to do as Mxfrank advised in part 1. There are a number of write-ups in the archives. Make sure to follow the 3-step tightening sequence referenced in the archives. It's in a TSB but not mentioned in some factory manuals.

Sixto
83 300SD
98 E320 wagon

Can you please help direct me to what parts I need to order on pelicanparts? I know I need new washers and o-rings but there are a bunch of them on their website for my 99 E300TD and I want to make sure I order the right ones. Also, if my line does need replacing which part # would that be? I am assuming it would be 605-070-01-33-MBZ which is the "diesel injector line."
Am I correct about that and are all the metal lines the same part #?

__________________
2006 E320CDI- current dd
1999 E300TD - retired
Wilmington, NC USA

You should call or email Pelican Parts to get the right parts for a 606.962 delivery valve reseal. You'll need the splined socket too. But that's not a job to undertake on a preemptive basis. Don't touch the IP until you confirm that it's leaking. Too many have done the job and ended up with a dry cylinder. It's as easy to get wrong as to get right.

Ideally you'll get a formed line since each is unique. Mxfrank can tell you what a pain it is to replicate the original shape from a straight replacement. Id rather get a good used one.

Sixto
83 300SD
98 E320 wagon

so the leak is coming from below the hex nut on the threaded piece. Hopefully its not the line and just the washer. My mechanic is telling me I'm going to need a new intake gasket because he is going to need to remove the intake. Does this sound right?

__________________
2006 E320CDI- current dd
1999 E300TD - retired
Wilmington, NC USA

Umm... it's easier and less risky to replace an injector line and you have to replace just the leaking line. If you're opening up to replace a delivery valve o-ring and washer, do them all. The intake manifold has to come off... which begs the question of when the glow plugs and fuel supply and return lines were last done.

Sixto
83 300SD
98 E320 wagon

First I'd try to tighten the metal line fitting. They take a lot of torque to tighten correctly and its easy to think you will strip them out. Also the fitting could be cross threaded. If cross threaded it will never seal.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Fuel delivery lines are pretty new....No more than 15k miles on them. The glowp plugs are old...possibly the originals

__________________
2006 E320CDI- current dd
1999 E300TD - retired
Wilmington, NC USA

Thanks I will try this

__________________
2006 E320CDI- current dd
1999 E300TD - retired
Wilmington, NC USA

A good injector line does not need a lot of torque on the nut to seal. As a matter of fact, it is over torque-ing that causes them to leak, by putting a groove in the male flare of the injector line, which is made from a softer material than the mating female flare surface of the injector.

Do not over tighten the line nut, you could crack something and will have to buy a new line. I'd try to loosen the nut about 5 turns, then pull up on the injector line, reseat it (push down), tighten the nut and see if the leak stops. If your line nut takes a 17 mm wrench, the torque is 25 NM or 18 ft lbs. 18 ft lbs is low torque for a 17 mm wrench, which is usually used on M10 bolts that range between 40 to 50 ft lbs.

__________________
85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I haven't looked at these however other metal lines have had a rounded end that seats in some type of curved receptacle. You can try cleaning the rounded end with a plastic Scotch Brite. Do not use sand paper as it can be too harsh. Tighten the fitting, examine for wetness, loosen and retighten several times if necessary until it seals.

Make sure that the other end is loose if it has a similar screw fitting for example going to the injector. Also make sure tat any connectors supporting the lines and connecting 1 to another are also loose. The line in question needs to be able to move until it seats. Then, the other end and supporting braces can be tightened.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Just a 3rd possible option as this happened to my 603....when the car is running can you see the fuel leaking?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/363409-did-i-crack-hard-line-video.html

(this is unlikely as I agree that it sounds like you need new seals. Not too hard of a job to do really)

__________________
1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet Parting Out
1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out)
1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481)

"The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care."