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#1
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240d Bad #3 cyl. Any value?
..Hello to all good people and Benz lovers alike..I am in the Detroit metro area and have replaced a 79' 240d motor with a bad #3 cyl...I got the car,which is in clean and sturdy condition otherwise,from a relative..no records,probably high miles..odo stopped at 180k..I know it sat 2 yrs..but it seems a cousin drove it a year and did nothing to it including oil changes..anyway after expensive circus attempts incl. a valve adjustment..it has been determined dead with under 100 compression in #3 by my diesel mechanic...so a swap with an 82' 110k motor is underway..given this unusual reality for this motor..what can I do with it?..I could take the injector pump..vac pump and alt/starter etc..but I really have nowhere to keep many car parts..is there a value to this motor?..otherwise scrap?..This brilliant site-forum has given me invaluable insight into these cars over the last few
months..this is my first post and I hope I'm in the right place...superdave |
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#2
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I'd tear down the motor for spare parts then scrap the heavy block.
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'80 300SD - '83 240D - '00 E55 AMG - '02 G500 |
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#3
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I'd keep the whole motor if I could. A fastener here and there or a glow plug etc, can be used in the future if needed.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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#4
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I assume the mechanic did a "leak down" test to assure the leakage was past the rings.
The engine can be rebuilt. If like my OM617 (300D, 5 cyl) engines, the cylinder liners are replaceable. Non-turbo pistons are comparatively cheap. But, non-turbo motors aren't very valuable, so may not make sense, especially since your storage space is limited. At least try to save the crankshaft since doesn't take much space. Next would be the cylinder head since those are rarer than blocks, given that heads suffer cracks around the valve seats.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
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#5
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Fix the odometer ASAP so you'll keep an eye on the routine cold valve adjustments and hot oil & filter changes so it'll start easily , runn well and out last you .
Then , save the parts you think you might need and if no one offers you $ for it, GIVE IT AWAY so the core isn't lost to scrap . I give away so much stuff it makes my head spin because I hate waste . How's Motor City treating you ? . Consider Finnigans Waxoyl to retard the ruinous rusting .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
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#6
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Hmm
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The question of value depends on what caused the failure = what parts are good. I have some space and may be interested 248-850-7027 Roy .
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ASE Master Mechanic Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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#7
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..Well thanks for the responses everyone first off..what happens is the motor will be a 600lb. door stop in my world and I don't want that..I got an itchy landlady who already let's me park a 66' Dodge A100 in her back garage..my mechanic is a cert. diesel tech and after doing every recommended fluids,purges,multiple oil changes,radiator,battery,glow plugs,block heater,valves,rear calipers (chuckle)..80 mile blow outs..everything 79' mercedes 101..and finally a new diaphragm and injectors..and it still had deathbed compression on #3 .. it would eventually start in the mornings last week and it has been cold,but it blew out 10 minutes of black and blue smoke every day just warming up..like a dying dog..then it would run fine ..but still like a happy dying dog..my mechanics theory is it's been basically neglected or just tired..the injectors made a difference to a degree..but the eventual comp test showed 60-80 psi on 3..I will utilize that # Mr.Hunter with great regard sir..given this weeks unfoldings..I feel like I'd be trashing a potentially useful donor to someone...I'm in W.Bloomfield Mi... Best to All..
btw..we're doing fine here in Big D...although the winter truly is the price you pay for the summer... |
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#8
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I did not notice a valve adjustment in there, did he do that? Are you also saying he put in new glow plugs? Rough running on start up and light blue smoke is a sign of a non functional glow plug. If you have a glow or two out it'll be very tough to start, and if there is a tight valve in addition it would be very tough to start.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. [SIGPIC]..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
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#9
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In his first post "anyway after expensive circus attempts incl. a valve adjustment..it has been determined dead with under 100 compression in #3 by my diesel mechanic..."
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
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#10
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The low compression should have been picked up much earlier. At least keep the newish glow plugs and vacuum pump and anything else Newish. Even if the glow plugs are different than what the newer engine has. Someone will buy then from you.
I still have a 1977 300d with the original style larger glow plugs. It never sees winter driving so the old systems larger glow plugs are quite adequate. In general your original engine just sounds like one either worn out from excess milage or few oil changes over a long time. Or the wrong thin lubricating oil was used. Some of us old timers up here just have never brought into using thinner oils and expecting long engine lives from older diesels to result. We might be wrong yet this is still somewhat of a local consensus amongst us. Even though our east coast climate is cooler in general as well. You are right though that there is really no percentage in saving a bad engine core if you do not do any major work on these cars your self. I for example have three really nice spare engines on hand. A gas m130 Mercedes engine. A 51 ford flathead and a 1983 616 engine like your car takes. The gas m130 is the smoothest running example of one I have ever seen. The ford was a ford supplied rebuilt that only saw service for a year in a car. Actually the only ford flathead engine in my life I ever owned that also carries decent oil pressure at hot idle. The 616 seemed pretty solid to me as it starts good cold and runs well in general And I suspect it has about 200k on it. Good enough overall that I would not hesitate to use it for a replacement if the need ever arose. Was a shame so much rust got into the car I pulled it from. Had a really nice black interior with no wear at all. I also am keeping the four speed transmission and calipers etc. Actually the whole car mechanically was still really good yet the extensive rust still was a killer. Finding really good used engines for the 123 series diesel cars may be getting much harder soon. So rebuilding them will become more of a necessity. Last edited by barry12345; 01-16-2017 at 10:48 AM. |
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#11
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Thank you
Quote:
![]() The box of extra parts was a nice bonus. ![]() Exactly as described, Back in my garage. Mounted onto engine stand to pull the upper oil pan, Some quick diagnostics verified compression issues. I suspect a bad head gasket, possibly combined with cylinder head crack and/or valve guide issues. Diagnostic teardown and repairs will need time I do not have now. I will try to remember to document the process, and post results here. .
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ASE Master Mechanic Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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#12
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..Thanks for picking that up Roy..I'm glad it worked out with your schedule and that the motor went to a scientist..I look forward to getting your way soon..now..I'm simply smacked with a fish giddy about the sweet audio justice of a pure running low mile 1982 240d motor..it runs perfect and I plan to make sure it stays this way..I will now,at my own pace,freshen up the suspension,which really isn't bad,just aged and suspicious..the car tracks strong and even..and could probably now beat a school bus at a light..as long as it's full...gratitude and best to all..
1986 528e manual 1966 A100 window |
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