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#1
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1981 300SD How hard to remove water pump?
On my 300SD, how involved is it to remove and take a look at the water pump?
Remove shroud, radiator, all belts??? More? Something is making a funny noise. |
#2
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Can you use a stethoscope or a long screwdriver to narrow down what the "something" is, while running? Usually it will look just fine, even when it's the doohickey causing the problem. You may not be able to feel the issue rotating it slowly by hand.
You can also remove belts and run the engine for a short period of time and listen for the sound. Sound stops when water pump belt(s) removed? Yeah something driven by that belt is the issue.
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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap |
#3
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Agree. Thanks. Just wondering if I end up removing it, how much teardown is involved to get to it.
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#4
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From what I remember you do not need to remove all belts, WP only, maybe alternator also but not AC. I did break the neck on the radiator pulling hose or replacing it from what I remember, so be careful there if R+R WP is needed. Other than that a two hour job on WP, or there about.
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#5
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Quote:
It is good to slide a small think screw driver or even get a new hose after cutting the old one. I also put anti-seize on the necks of these to prevent sticking. Thanks!
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Strelnik Invest in America: Buy a Congressman! 1950 170SD 1951 Citroen 11BN 1953 Citroen 11BNF limo 1953 220a project 1959 180D 1960 190D 1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr 1983 240D daily driver 1983 380SL 1990 350SDL daily driver alt 3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5 3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6 |
#6
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most importantly to remove the fan clutch from the pulley, buy a spare 10mm box wrench and grind it narrow, like maybe 1/2 original height.
i have done two or three WP without this and the last one I did, i just made the damn wrench and it was 1/2 the time. mandatory. other than that i never remove the rad and it goes pretty quick.
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1983 240d 5Sp SOLD 1986 300D(LUCO) SOLD 1983 300TD(dreamboat)SOLD 1984 240d (Executive)SOLD 1984 240d (Euripides) SOLD 1982 300sd SOLD 1982 300sd (Ambas)SOLD |
#7
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Don't strip or break the bolts that hold the pump on. I'm remembering an allen head. Certainly spray them, let sit and be sure to clean the heads and tap the socket in.
It may be the vacuum pump that I'm thinking of but dealing with rusty bolts from water passages is never pleasant.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#8
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Thanks guys. Good info. Interesting; as I get older I do not seem to relish getting under the hood like in the old days.
Then when I do, I find the apprehension was worse than the actual task. Generally speaking. They seem to be fairly even when working on the Land Rover. |
#9
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Use anti-seize on the bolts that mount the water pump to the aluminum housing. The ends of the bolts are bathed in hot coolant and they can get seized from corrosion. Also it is a good time to to consider replacing the short hose below the thermostat housing (upper left corner of photo), since the coolant will be drained.
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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014 79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022 |
#10
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X3 on the seized and or broken bolts by the previous owner.
I had one Water Pump Bolt broken by the previous owner. Since I was only one I did no bother to attempt to remove it. Some unlucky people have had water pump bolts break and then removed the Aluminum part behind the water pump only to have bolts break off of that. Any bolt in the parts of the coolant system may break when removing them. The area under the hoses also can be deeply pitted. I ground the pits on mine down to the bare metal and filled with JB Weld Epoxy (not the fast curing version) and then taped over it so it would conform to the contour of the part. When you remove the tape you may find voids that need to be filled with epoxy and the curing starts again. After that you can file and sand it to the proper shape.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#11
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Makes sense. Thanks.
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#12
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Yes, as you get older one of Newton's laws applies. A body at rest tends to remain at rest unless acted on by an outside force (like your Wife asking when the Car is going to be fixed).
Once your momentum is going it is not so bad and once you bugger up the job there is no choice but to continue (a matter of pride/ego) till it is fixed.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#13
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Quote:
Remove fan too. SD water pump part was like $18.00 @ the MB dealer, with exchange. |
#14
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If you get broken bolts in the housing, I have a fixture for drilling the broken bolts out. That is if you don't have a replacement housing.....Rich
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/364377-water-pump-housing-broken-bolt-repair-fixture.html
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#15
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Quote:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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