1981 300SD Rear Window Seal - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mikebear79 · #1 01-25-2017, 08:29 PM

I splurged and purchased a new OEM weather stripping seal at the dealer and I want to put it in right the first time. I keep reading about some people using plumber's putty/pipe dope, and others using some dish soap along the seal. Which one would be best? I'm guessing the putty because it'd be slippery when wet and then be able to seal hard?

Stretch · #2 01-26-2017, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikebear79

I splurged and purchased a new OEM weather stripping seal at the dealer and I want to put it in right the first time. I keep reading about some people using plumber's putty/pipe dope, and others using some dish soap along the seal. Which one would be best? I'm guessing the putty because it'd be slippery when wet and then be able to seal hard?

The reference to putty is probably a reference to the stuff Mercedes sells as window sealant. This is not used for lubrication...

...this stuff is generally not used any more except perhaps by people who really really want all of their Mercedes to be of original spec!

Mikebear79 · #3 03-04-2017, 08:55 PM

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Finally got the rear window out of my 81 300SD. I used heavy duty tin snips and a mini crow bar to cut and break away small sections of the upper seal til I could push the window out. I still need to clean up the body lip area, but so far, no rust at all as far as I can tell. Considering there are other rusty areas on the car, this was a big relief. Now on to removing the old seal and trim from the window and the old purpled tint as well.

Stretch · #4 03-08-2017, 05:39 AM

Did you tip the car upside down to get the window out?

Junkman · #5 03-08-2017, 12:32 PM

You work too hard. A glass man has a much better chance of installing it without breaking. He will also have the necessary tools and chemicals. The last one I talked to said that he had something to stop the slight delamination that is in the corners.

$100 cash for R&R. My time spend finding a replacement for a broken window could cost that much.

Mikebear79 · #6 03-10-2017, 08:42 PM

Well ****, I cracked the rear window trying to get the trim off. I had 2/3rds of it done and then the corner cracked. Well, I really don't have $1,000 for a new window and I was already not too happy about paying $500 for a really good car cover, since it's already starting to heat up here in Phoenix. Anyone want a 300SD with a new OEM rear window seal, minus the window? :-/

Junkman · #7 03-10-2017, 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikebear79

Well ****, I cracked the rear window trying to get the trim off. I had 2/3rds of it done and then the corner cracked. Well, I really don't have $1,000 for a new window and I was already not too happy about paying $500 for a really good car cover, since it's already starting to heat up here in Phoenix. Anyone want a 300SD with a new OEM rear window seal, minus the window? :-/

Go find an independent glass man. Then find any 126 from 1981 thru 1992 or 3 whatever the cut off year is and buy another glass. Pay the glass man (cash) to remove it from the parts car and install in yours.

Alternatively, what do you want for the car? What shape is it in? Except for the rear window, can it drive at hwy speeds comfortably frm AZ to TN? You are letting a $300 problem that doesn't even include your wrenching screw up the entire project.

All of the cars I've seen in the yards have had the rear glass. One was even lying on the trunk happily enclosed in the pliable seal just waiting for someone to pick it up. It looked like it popped out when the trunk was hit so hard that the bumper ended up below the rear window. They usually are crushed by the yard and shouldn't be very pricey.

Mikebear79 · #8 03-10-2017, 09:53 PM

I just took it to Palm Springs a few weeks ago at 65mph the whole way and it was great. It runs just fine. It can climb up a mountain pass at 65mph with the cruise on and barely wavers from the set speed and doesn't downshift. I have replaced the glow plug module and the glow plugs, and replaced some interior lighting including the fiber optic octopus light bulb back in the dash. I also got the tach to work again by resoldering the amp. The car needs paint and the interior needs work. There is rust on the driver's door and some rust here and there underneath the car, but none in the rear window area. Lots of little dings here and there. I paid 2k for it in July due to the color combo, but I am very open to other offers. - Mike

602-492-2327

Junkman · #9 03-11-2017, 01:19 PM

It would require similar things to my current cars. Put a window in and fix it.

Sounds like frequenting the yards would be helpful because you need interior parts. Grab a window while there. Do nothing with it other than what's required to remove it from the car.

You know now how it's put together. Perhaps a box cutter or other razor cutting seal only will allow it to pop out. My bodyshop friend who is now out of the business routinely cuts glass out and ALWAYS subs the install out.

The difference between DIY and a pro is the sometimes steep learning curve. You've paid the (some) tuition. Now, reap the reward.

All here have had similar screw ups. It's only a big deal if you decide it is.

ROLLGUY · #10 03-11-2017, 08:03 PM

I learned the hard way as well with my first 'Benz, a 1982 300CD. Be glad you don't have a CD, or broke the FRONT windshield. It was a very expensive lesson at the time, and would be even more costly today.....Rich