|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Trying to iron the kinks out of my 240D
Bought a 240D in october and thanks to this forum I've gotten it well sorted enough that it shares daily duty with my VW. I really enjoy the car and believe it is running pretty darn well for a 240D.
That aside there are a few quirks and I figured I'd consult the pros. 1. The starter engages 6 or 7 out of 10 times (unless it VERY cold, like this morning @ 15 degrees, then its more times not engaging than engaging). It always spins when I turn the key but does not always engage the flywheel to turn the engine. Is it on its way out? Could I get away with just replacing the solenoid? 2. I really want to replace the motor mounts. The motor shakes like crazy and the mounts are so collapsed that I believe that is the cause. Last weekend I was pretty easily able to remove all the bolts except 1. Its on the engine side of the mount, tucked under a heat shield. I literally could not reach it. Is there some trick to getting to this bolt? 3. Would really like to replace the old style primer pump with a new bosch unit but an having a hell of a time getting it off, even with vice grips. Any suggestions? |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
What year is your 240D, and is it automatic or manual?
It helps to get a more accurate response if you ID the vehicle more fully, and many times photos are very helpful. 1) Starter and glowplugs have a big draw on the battery, which has less capacity in the cold. To maximize electron flow, at a minimum, clean all the connections in the starter circuit. (Battery terminals, battery cables, starter solenoid terminals, alternator spade plug, negative cable to chassis ground strap, engine to chassis ground strap, electric ignition switch, and any others I've missed). Many here have replaced stock battery cables with heavier duty cables and/or added extra engine to chassis, and alternator to chassis ground straps. If the above doesn't cure your starting ills...then it's time to try and rule out other causes. 2) Removal of front engine mounts FSM job 00-211 Removal of rear engine mount FSM job 00-212 3) If your lift pump has the primer pump and two nipples on the top surface of the pump, you have to remove one of the nipples first. IIRC it's the outflow nipple. Don't forget to replace the crush washer under the nipple...otherwise you may get a fuel leak. For your reading pleasure, and future reference...W123 FSM
__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014 79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022 |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Here you go. I'm pretty sure its the same on a 240d. You'll have to remove the center main bolt and jack up the engine enough to remove that heat shield in order to get to that inner bolt.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3685957-post44.html
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
The bendix in your starter is probably just getting stuck on the old thick grease on the shaft. I'm guessing cleaning it could fix it.
__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I'd agree on the Bendix (starter drive). They do get gummy. As stated they can sometimes be cleaned but it's not too expensive to replace it and given the labor is probably worth it. If Pelican doesn't offer them (I haven't looked) it might be easiest to go to your local rebuilder and buy one from them - ours will sell parts.
Dan |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|