What to do? The parking brake is rusted on. I pushed the parking brake on stupidly with a car that was sitting for like 6 years and decided to try and release and it won't release. I also need to move the car now. What do I do? Now i wouldn't be able to get the rotors off as well because the parking brake is stuck on.

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Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

Gently put the car into reverse, this may get you out of trouble but could damage something in the process.

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

Does the foot pedal release or is it stuck down?

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Based on my general experience (not Mercedes specific) it's almost always the cable that gets seized internally that won't let the E-brake release. Assuming the the pedal is released (see kerry's post) the best way to get the car in the shop is to simply cut the cable as close to the axle flange as you can get it. Most of the time you'll hear the E-brake mechanism release when you get thru the cable. DO NOT expect to cut thru there with wire cutters - those cables are TOUGH. I don't know what tools you have access to but a cut-off wheel in a die grinder works best though you can usually get thru it with a hacksaw if you're careful not to cut hydraulic brake lines or other nearby important structures.

EDIT: Remember that you'll have to replace the cable anyway so you're not out anything to cut it.

Dan

If the cable system is similar to 123/6 and the front portion of the system before it splits looks loose, you might get them to free up by tapping on the cables between the front section and the wheels.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

You could also back off the shoes with the star wheel if you can get to it.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Ok... So the pedal is stuck to the floor. I got it to move though. I hit it in reverse at like 1k RPMs and eased and the wheels broke loose. The light is stuck on, and I was able to move it. I'm not driving the car but from my driveway to the backyard and it feels like it isn't engaged anymore the car isn't dragging. I'll just cut the parking brake with a grinder and call it quits. I'll replace it someday, or with my parts car. Thank you for the advice everyone. Great answers as always. The forum members knowledge is always appreciated.

__________________
Only diesels in this driveway.
2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black
2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k
2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k

More likley then not , that the shoes are rusted on to the drum of the back brake disc .Wheel off and tap the drum with a malet .Or you might need to do it with hammer .Pump in the adjuster hole a penetrating fluid as the shoes will be toast by now. And if the disc is bad, you wont have to bother on how hard you tap it . Thats if the cable is free on the rear , if not , you need to remove the tension off the cable , so you can pull off the brake disc drum.

My bet would be that the problem is simply a rusted cable mechanism under the car, and some penetrating oil and patience would set it right or at least release the brakes without major drama.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Max you may be right .And Jake its time to start working on it with out making to much damage and more work .So penetrating oil inside the drum .The cable is inside the outer case and hard to get freeing oil in there ..Moving the car will damage subframe bushes and other things on the drive train . Remove the cable under the centre of the car to give it more play to move . Diesel is a good freeing aditive, paint it on with a brush. Good luck mate .

Perhaps this link will help - best of luck!

Mercedes-Benz W124 Parking Brake Adjustment | 1986-1995 E-Class | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article


-Dmitry