99 E300 radiator leak - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

treetops · #1 03-21-2017, 06:48 PM

Not sure how it happened but my fan broke three blades off when I nudged a snow pile pulling into a parking spot.

Now I've got a leaky radiator or intercooler. I'm not sure which until I can get under there. From what I can see there is no clear damage to the radiator, obvious rips and such, and the leak is coming from the lowest passenger left area of the radiator. Oddly the lower hose does not seem to be leaking as there is no constant wetness there.

I have no idea how a such a low speed nudge would do this, but that's what I have right now. Broken fan and leaking coolant. Any ideas of the connection between the radiator and intercooler would be helpful. If it's a ripped lower hose I can deal with that.

jay_bob · #2 03-21-2017, 08:37 PM

No connection between the radiator and intercooler.

I just went through this myself.

New Behr radiator from Pelican about $450. Don't bother with the Genuine MB, it is $200 more and the same radiator except the MB star isn't ground off the plastic.

Front end up on stands or ramps.

Take off front and middle lower pans. Drain coolant through drain hole in radiator bottom. Use a piece of hose to direct it to a pan.

Remove the following:
Cover over the auxiliary fans
Upper cross member to radiator clips
Upper cross member, flip over to unclip hood release cable
Auxiliary fan assembly
Engine cooling fan and shroud
Front bumper (2 bolts in front below headlights, 2 accessible from sides), unplug fog lights, side marker lights, OAT sensor first
Intercooler (remove air hoses, undo bolts holding it to bottom of radiator)
Release coolant lines from radiator, get ready with the bucket
Clean fittings and then release ATF lines from radiator, cap ends of line with proper caps or plastic bag and rubber band, you'll also need to remove the line support at the bottom center rear. Very important no contaminants get in there.
Now the fun part, you have to work to lift the radiator out past the condenser. This is very difficult.

Once you have the radiator out double check that your radiator support is not bent inward. If this is the case it can be easily corrected using a scissors jack from a Japanese car (or a W164!) bearing against the LCA/engine subframe.

Now you can start putting everything back together. Once you have the radiator back in place put the fan back on and make sure it will clear.

Once you've gotten everything back together, you will need to refill the cooling system. In order to get a good fill be sure to backfill from the upper radiator hose until it can take no more. Then fill the remainder into the reservoir tank. It will take a gallon of G05 and a gallon of distilled water. On the first start, put the heater on HI and let the car idle while watching the temperature gauge, until the temperature comes up and the heater starts blowing hot air. This ensures you have purged the air from the system. Keep an eye on the coolant level for a couple days.

I only lost a few ounces of ATF but I can see that I need to do a fluid change soon.

treetops · #3 03-21-2017, 09:11 PM

Hey thanks for the detailed write up. Pelican has a Nissens raditaor for 274 which seems to fit the budget better.

Took me a second to figure the OAT sensor, lol.

So how did you radiator go bad on you Jaybob?

jay_bob · #4 03-21-2017, 10:07 PM

Hit a curb stop while parking. Pushed the radiator into the fan.

treetops · #5 03-22-2017, 02:44 PM

How do you get the radiator past the condenser?? Is there clips or something in the way?

Disregard that. Yes there are clips for the condenser, tilt the rad toward the engine lift condenser up on each side and it comes out of said clips. Then lift radiator out past atf lines on passenger side.

So is it normal for a radiator to leak from the fins when tipped forward... don't think so. Buying a new one from a local source. Can't wait for shipping. Thanks jaybob.

jay_bob · #6 03-22-2017, 10:19 PM

The bottom of the radiator support catches the curb and shoves everything backward into the fan. Sickening thpppt thpppt thpppt sound followed by the hiss of escaping pressure and wisp of steam rising up. Only one little hole chewed into the fins = $400 radiator is now scrap metal.

treetops · #7 03-24-2017, 02:25 PM

Thanks Jay_Bob, I got the new nissens radiator and was able to get it in with abit of wiggling, hooked the condenser back into the clips and buttoned everything up.

I didn't take the bumper off, but can see why this is logical to get the intercooler down with out damaging it. I was able to get the intercooler past the bumper air dam because it was damaged anyway...guess from hitting too many snow piles/curb stops.

I have left the engine fan off for now and the new radiator definitely seems to cool same as, or better, than the old one with the fan. Perhaps I'll join the no engine fan club....

ROLLGUY · #8 03-24-2017, 09:59 PM

You won't believe this, but a couple months ago my friend with a '99 W210 called me and said his car leaked coolant, and he wanted me to come and look at it. Sure enough, three blades were missing from the fan, and the radiator had leaks near the bottom. It also broke the fan shroud, and put a couple dents in the hood. He ordered a radiator, fan, and fan clutch and I installed them. But wait, it gets better. Just last week, my other friend with an identical car called and said some blades broke off his fan, and the radiator was leaking. No dents in the hood of his car though. It looks like Pelican is having a run on cooling fans and radiators all of a sudden!

vstech · #9 03-24-2017, 10:29 PM

The 210 has a rust problem, and as the car ages, it handles abuse poorly.

The lower radiator support beam tubes SUCK!

ROLLGUY · #10 03-24-2017, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

The lower radiator support beam tubes SUCK!

I think that part (lower core support) is available at Pelican. That tells me it is a commonly replaced part!

jay_bob · #11 03-24-2017, 11:14 PM

It is literally "low hanging fruit" and easily abused by curb stops or parking places with high curbs in front.

The replacement radiator support has to be welded in place.

The prior owner put H&R lowering springs on my car, which makes it all the more vulnerable. It is on my short list of car projects to return the car to standard ride height.

ROLLGUY · #12 03-25-2017, 11:29 AM

When I fixed the core support on my car years ago, I made some braces that attach to the suspension/engine crossmember. I also had a piece of 1/8" steel plate made that bolts on the bottom for a skid plate. It works well. I will try to get photos and measurements for all to have as reference to make copies.