Hey All
Been a bit since last post,

Anyone know of a shop in northern Illinois that is able to tune an om617 with 7.5mm M-pump?
Most called will back away and it's quite frustrating to put this much time and resources to no be able to get the best results, i can only do so much.

Or...is there anyone with experience that can show how to do this so it can be learned?

Thanks

Specifically, what do you want to accomplish? I can tell you how I set mine up but Goran had the pump timing set for me when he shipped it so I was a step ahead. Still, I have some thoughts if I knew where you were trying to go with this. There really isn't a lot of "tuning" to do on these, just checking the cam timing (checking for chain stretch, etc.) and pump timing (mine's at 23*).

Dan

Thanks for reply,
Received mine a year ago, no paperwork,
Have added 315 injectors and a modified turbo with a 60mm compressor wheel.

Moved screws down to lower egt's abd have since returned them to same area when it arrived.
I belive the guy who installed it set timming.
Just can't find a shop to show how to do it.

Just not sure it's(om617) doing as good as it can.

Here's how it went in

M pump into an OM617

The info on the other forum regarding the oil supply is correct - no external line is needed.

As far as tuning - have you checked the timing chain for stretch? That's sort of the first thing. I'm guessing mine must have been changed as there's no significant stretch. If you're not sure of how to do the check there are good threads on here to tell you how - that's how I did it! It's been a while so I'm not sure I remember all the steps.

Goran (Dieselmeken) built my pump so I followed his instructions. Before I pulled the MW pump I put the engine on TDC and made double sure I was at TDC #1 CYLINDER!! It's easy to be off 1 revolution. Check that both #1 rockers are loose with the dampner at TDC. I checked my dampner for TDC when I had the engine apart for the rear main so I know mine's OK but if you aren't sure of TDC you'll have to go thru that process.

Anyhow, with the engine at TDC #1, my M pump was locked at 23*. Then I just slid it in there and tightened everything down. Goran set it up on his test bench so it was spot-on but there's probably a thread on here to help you find that spot. Once the pump was in it's CRITICAL to remove the stop bolt that holds the pump at 23* or many bad things will happen! So anyhow, I've been making HP and Torque ever since but the next step is more air so I have a bigger turbo waiting for me to bolt it in.

I'm wondering exactly why you think more tuning is needed? Not saying you're wrong but these engines are relatively insensitive to fine adjustments a long as the big stuff is right. When I was running the MW pump I tried several different timing settings and so on and saw zero difference in performance as measured in a standing mile with certified timing equipment. Is the engine not performing as well as expected? Do you have a hesitation during acceleration? Other specific performance issue? One of the most useful things I do after making a big change (like when I went to the M pump) is to take it to the dyno and see what we find - $125 well spent. I'll do the same after I get the bigger turbo installed. If you can find an actual Diesel shop with a dyno they can probably also give you specific changes to make to fix what you want to fix (I'm using a regular hot rod shop so I'm on my own but at least I have some data).

Remember that these engines only made 126 HP FLYWHEEL (or so) so if you're getting say 150 or 175 rear wheel (figure about 20% loss from the flywheel to the rear wheel though that varies) you're doing pretty well. With my MW pump I was getting 125ish. HP rear wheel which isn't bad for a basically stock engine with clipped compressor vanes. An estimate is 150HP flywheel so it's something like a 20% improvement. I'm currently at 225ish. HP rear wheel on a DynoJet (not my favorite dyno but somewhere in the ballpark) with 8mm elements, running 21ish PSI boost. This gives pretty high EGT's (1200-1300*) at the end of the track but the big turbo should help that.

EDIT: If you want to adjust the external stuff on the M pump Goran has several posts on YouTube to explain it all. I found it clear and concise even though I had to view it several times as I worked thru the language barrier (Goran has good English but a bit of an accent.) They're under "Dieselmeken", then look for the OM617 stuff. I usually Google for "Dieselmeken OM617" and it pops right up. My pump was set up on his test rig and seems to be spot-on so I've left it alone.

I'm wondering if you're doing better than you think you are!

Dan

Well , mines a DD, have boost at 14lbs, runs fine but the not knowing how it's doing had me thinking on going back to a different engine.
Before the final decision is made a dyno will be done being a few weeks out yet.

It's been suggested to run it harder than i do, not too much is seen above 4500rpms so this might be tried also.
& yes timing chain is been on my mind to just change out for good maintenance.

It's in a big heavy land rover 110 and have been somewhat happy with it but haven't anything else to compare it with.

Play with the timing. Rotate the pump toward the engine, test drive, and if it knocks then rotate it back away from the engine a little bit.

You can run up to 5,000rpm no problem, assuming your oil is fresh and your radiator works.

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

I regularly shift at 5200 with no issues but with the stock pump it simply didn't wind that high. You might try adding a little boost but keep your eye on EGTs.

Dan

Have the valves been checked for proper adjustment? This is probably the single largest contributor to poor performance/ or great if properly adjusted. They should be adjusted every 10-12K miles

Just to verify
Fresh fuel filters
Timing chain stretch? (very easy to check search on forums)
Air filter clean?
Diesel tank filter clogged?
Oil loss to mile ratio?

__________________
Nosce Te Ipsum "Know thyself"

Ok, thanks for advice.

Will try n run rpm's up further n drive like little four banger, just not used to running that high, rpm's rise extremely fast from 3500 n not use to it, boost seems ok at 14lbs and is kinda a safty deal dumping off when rpm's get that high depending on how it's accelerated.

Will keep looking for shop to change timing chain & have read on how to do it at home but prefer experienced shop to change it.

If your timing chain is just slightly worn, you can easily install an inexpensive offset key on the camshaft sprocket. I used the smallest one (4 deg @ crank, I recall) on both my OM617's. I over-corrected one slightly, but that does allow for future wear.

If going for max power (sounds like you are a "tuner"), a little valve lag is actually good. Guys w/ gas engines have long installed new cams at 4 deg lag for better high rpm performance. Upscale timing sets generally have multiple keyways on the sprockets to tweak the valve timing. When they use the 0 deg keyways, they term it "a straight-up cam install". A friend used to set his Pinto engine timing belt w/ 1 tooth lag to drag race it, then set back for daily driving. Same principle applies to a diesel engine, in both you are trying to get the max air flow into the cylinders.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans