Nagging oil leak from guide pin...
 

OK Folks!

I'm back...winter seems to have taken off on holiday.

In my thread about checking timing chain stretch, whilst executing the same, I fuddled with the timing chain guide rail pin on the "banana
tensioner a few times trying to get slack without disassembling the whole shebang all over again. It is obvious I did not re-seal it the last time I pulled it.
I will be returning to the scene of the crime as there is an oil leak that is dumping oil.
I'm trying to remember what I need to remove to get the slack in the chain that I need to pull the pin. I think I removed the cam sprocket (with chain zip-tied in several places) to drop the chain down so the pin can be pulled. Otherwise, the tensioner pulls the "banana" guide up so you cannot fit the pin back in.
Does this sound right? I had so many things to attend to (that were unanticipated) it's a little difficult to recall the details.

Next up: Try to replace broken alternator bracket with unbroken bracket, using current tensioner bolt hardware-

Replace alternator fan with older one from older alternator. The newer alternator has a fan that is roughly 19mm diameter larger. The tips on the blades are striking something and making a lot of racket. But boy, they are shiny!

The car has seen little use since September- I am hoping to get it together for the road trip season, and that is coming soon!


Cheers!

snapped_bolt

I think you only need to remove the chain tensioner. Don't forget a new seal ring when putting it back together, or it will probably leak.

Removing tensioner
 

Hi..


Won't that have to be re-primed with oil? If I just drop the sprocket there is enough slack to pull/replace the pin.

snapped_bolt

New seal ring?
 

max....

I don't remember a "seal ring".
Tensioner is new, less than 500 mi
I do have spare gaskets, however

Is there some seal ring? The leak is indeed nagging, but not coming from the tensioner gasket. That one came off and was reinstalled a few times as well. I degreased the engine area and gasket with Electrical Parts Cleaner each time. No leaks there.


Later

snapped_bolt

Sorry, no seal ring on the OM61x, I was confused and thought you had an OM60x engine.

I'm not sure but probably yes, the tensioner would need to be bleed / primed before installation.

Removing the camshaft gear is rather extreme and has more risk, I think just the tensioner should give you the slack you need, but you may want to get another opinion on you OM61x motor. If so, recommend a new thread that has something in the title about slackening the timing chain to remove the guide pin.

a NEW thread...
 

Do you think so?

Just getting to the pin involves a lot of part removal from the front of the engine. I think I covered that in the drawn-out timing chain stretch thread.
I don't have a lot of engine oil on hand to do it again- the tensioner needs to be submerged in the oil. Done that a few times. Ick. Lots of clean-up!

I zip-tied the sprocket, popped it off the cam and lowered it to gain slack. It didn't want to go back on either time, I had to move the cam slightly to get it to line up again. It takes some effort, but it works.

I am hoping to get this engine as close to leak-free as possible. The 616 engines I have seen have a thing for coating themselves with oil and debris, especially right at the front. Nice insulation! I like my cooling systems to function, and it's hard to keep it functioning right with a tar blanket embedded with seeds, hornets, and and dust right up front!

Actually, I don't like an "extra coating" on any engine.

MAYBE another thread. I'll see how it goes.

snapped_bolt