Coolant leak 1999 E300TD - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

graysilm · #1 05-15-2017, 08:11 PM

I recently had my WP replaced on my 1999 E300TD. Today I got a "coolant level low" warning on my dash and I noticed that coolant was leaking out somewhere on the drivers side bottom radiator area. All the coolant eventually leaked out. I pulled off the undercarriage panel and looked at the bottom radiator hose. It looked fine but I noticed that the smaller radiator (tranny cooler?) in front of the main radiator was sitting lower than on the other side. When I pushed up on it it moved up. I found a bolt screwed into a little brass tube had come loose. Pictures are below. It seems like this bolt and tube go through a bracket to support the radiator. Does anyone know what this brass tube is? Could the fact that it came loose have anything to do with all my coolant leaking out? Ideas are appreciated...
IMG_20170509_231328152_HDR.jpg Photo by graysilm | Photobucket

engatwork · #2 05-15-2017, 08:15 PM

That is the fastener that secures the intercooler. There should be one at each end. The brass part has "pulled" out.

graysilm · #3 05-15-2017, 08:29 PM

So should there be two bolts that screw into the single brass tube? Any idea why this would have caused a leak? Perhaps when it lost support it pulled on the hose a bit?

ROLLGUY · #4 05-15-2017, 09:23 PM

Chances are you need a new radiator. The plastic tanks are not repairable.

graysilm · #5 05-16-2017, 12:55 PM

New radiator?...that's not what I want to hear. Is there anyway to tell that I absolutely need a new radiator?

ROLLGUY · #6 05-16-2017, 10:00 PM

Pressure test the system, and if there is coolant leaking from any part of the plastic radiator, then yes you need a new one.

graysilm · #7 06-05-2017, 05:32 PM

Does anyone know of a link for DIY radiator removal for a diesel W210? Also, if only the plastic part is broken could it be possible to repair it with JBweld or some other 2 part epoxy? I was always told that the thick aluminum radiators on these cars rarely fail, so it would be pretty disappointing if I had to replace the entire radiator because a plastic part was broken...

engatwork · #8 06-05-2017, 06:04 PM

Unfortunately that is the way it is. If plastic parts are used they will eventually fail. I've been somewhat soccessful with an epoxy radiator repair kit that comes with a fiberglass mat you embed in epoxy. I'd say I've had a 60% success rate using it. Otherwise get a new radiator coming.

The top cross piece unbolts and provides room to pull radiator out. Four 10mm, two at each seam IIRC. Most cumbersome thing is dealing with fan if you remove it. Once the cross piece is out it is pretty evident how to remove radiator.

ROLLGUY · #9 06-05-2017, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by engatwork

Unfortunately that is the way it is. If plastic parts are used they will eventually fail. I've been somewhat soccessful with an epoxy radiator repair kit that comes with a fiberglass mat you embed in epoxy. I'd say I've had a 60% success rate using it. Otherwise get a new radiator coming.

The top cross piece unbolts and provides room to pull radiator out. Four 10mm, two at each seam IIRC. Most cumbersome thing is dealing with fan if you remove it. Once the cross piece is out it is pretty evident how to remove radiator.

Actually, the trans cooler lines are the hardest part. The condenser and fan unit sit inside a hook on each side of the Rad, so it has to be lifted up and out of the hook so the rad can be lifted out after cooler lines are removed. It is easiest to lower the intercooler, so the lower cooler line banjo bolt is accessible. The top line can be removed with the rad moved back from the condenser. Also, the fan clutch and fan need to be removed (8mm allen) to get the shroud out. With these parts out of the way, the lower two coolant hose clamps can be accessed.
I have done this job numerous times, and it is not as easy as it may look. It is easiest to remove the condenser and fan, but you would need to discharge (recover legally) the refrigerant to do so. Removing the rad without removing the condenser is much harder, but very doable.....Rich

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode