hey everyone. So yesterday when i was headed home my ignition switch got stuck in the on position... after about 5-10 minutes coercing it, i got it to turn off, and then was able to turn it on and get the car started.. I drove right home, where I parked.. turn the key off and then got lock lube and lubricated the lock... i tried the ignition switch again in an attempt to spread the lube except this time, the key got stuck in the start position....

I was able to get the car to turn off, but the key was stuck in there so good that the key broke off in the ignition... I unplugged the battery and went to bed.

today I was trying to use wire to get the ignition tumbler out, but it came to my attention the key isn't in the "on 1 position" but instead more in the " start position" so I am guessing I can't get the ignition tumbler out in the position..

I am hoping someone could give me some advice as to where I should go from here...

thanks in advance!

Get an entire used steering column that has a key and working ignition, and replace your steering column. Get new ignition cylinder and key from MB dealer, VIN coded so the key works in the doors.

Careful cutting with a dremel tool will free the ignition switch from the back of the ignition lock, and then you can get the electrical connector free (switch needs to be in position corresponding to key at position 1 in order to release the connector).

OR you can pay a locksmith hundreds of dollars to drill it out.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

There is a tool to remove the cylinder from the lock while it is in position "1" I believe. You should search this site as there are DIY postings on removing the cylinder before failure. With your key in the cylinder, you still may be able to remove the lock. Read up on the procedure before trying anything.

I noticed my key was acting difficult to turn and replaced the cylinder for about $40 a number of years ago. When I removed the cylinder, it came apart in 2 pieces. It would have failed at anytime.

Mine had about 170k miles on it......check your high mileage vehicles before you have this same problem.

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-- Chris

'95 E300, 216k miles, Silver Surfer
'05 E320 CDI, 138k miles
'07 S550 4matic, 69k miles

Gone but not forgotten:

'76 300D, 350k miles?, SOLD in 1995
'75 240D, 300k miles, SOLD in 1991

Fortunately, your ignition is in the unlocked position. Meaning that the steering isn't locked. You should be able to just loosen the collar on the steering lock mechanism, depress the steering lock pin and easily remove it as a unit. Then purchase a new steering column lock and a new tumbler.

Good point, I missed that!

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Phew.. that sounds way better.. Maxbumpo.. you scared the pie outta me, bro! I was like a steering column?!

I think i must've got lucky that at least it got stuck in the "2 position" I tried for about 45 minutes to use a tool i crafted to remove the lock tumblers.. but realized it must need to be in position "1" for it to work. I tried to get the lock to turn to position 1 (with the key broken off inside) and it was not budging... what a fiasco.. this car doesn't even have the original ignition key... The things we do for the ones we love (mercedes) I have a honda with 220k and it has never had half the issues I have with mercedes..

SO I am going to try to take the assembly out tomorrow.. and gonna see about ordering a replacement.

Removing the steering column is not really that hard if you've ever removed the instrument cluster. The hardest part is a guard that goes around the steering lock, two 13mm bolts in front and two behind, and they are hard to reach. Once the IC is out of the way, two bolts hold the steering column to the dash support, and then there is the bolt hold the steering column to the steering gear box.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

OK i removed the assembly today, wasn't too hard! thank you all for your help!

I ordered a used assembly from Ebay with key.we will see how well it works! if not it's returnable and it does have the valve for the diesel shut off!

You can swap the valve and internal cam from a gasser ignition to a diesel. It's quite easy actually.

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CENSORED due to not family friendly words

Do you have a procedure for that? I have the complete interlocked shifter system from a later 124 that I want to put in my wagon. The only thing I was not able to get that day (it was getting late) was the key switch assembly. I didn't have time to get it and I didn't think it was worth the trouble since it was a gas engined car, so I didn't think it would work anyway.

Also if I get a key switch from the yard it will not have a key (our yard does not put the keys out with the cars). What are my options to be able to get the donor switch's cylinder out without a key?

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The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech

oh jeeze.. i hope i don't need to swap anything. I have a feeling you need to be able to take the tumbler off to swap anything out? and it's jammed. though "unlocked" position.. thankfully.

so I swapped out the ignition assembly and it worked great.. only problem with the assembly i got from ebay was the key was bent. Ordered a new meyle keyset (made in china) got it, installed it.. works great EXCEPT now the car buzzes like the key is in the ignition even when it's removed.

so everytime the door is open the car buzzes omg.. i switched it back to the old keyset and the buzzing stops... Can't I catch a break? has anyone else had this problem any fix i am missing?

Order a new cylinder and key from the Classic Center, and be done.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC