Recently, my om617 was running rough and shaking so I ordered new nozzles from Mercedes source. I took out one injector, took it apart and replaced the nozzle, reassembled and put it back in to Tq spec. I continued to do this for all 5 injectors. Good to note my priming pump was also replaced. Cracked open the hard lines at the injectors and cranked until fuel came out to bleed out the air. But upon attempts to start the motor, all it does is smoke and will not start.... Any ideas on how I can fix this problem?

Have you pop tested after changing out?

shouldn't make the difference between starting or not, but does depend on how your old ones were set up.

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David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)

Call Kent?

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

I'm afraid I don't know what "pop" testing is, can you elaborate?

Oh man, beautiful.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Is it even possible to get a hold of that guy...

Run through the basics with us. How did you bleed the lines, what procedure did you use, how much did you prime the IP, how long did you crank after tightening injector nuts, when did you last adjust your valves and check timing(hopefully before you did anything with the injectors?), is there fuel leaking out of the injectors anywhere, etc etc. You can hose them off with carb cleaner and then use a UV flashlight to check for diesel. At least the stuff around here glows in UV light quite nicely.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Unfortunately, no valve and check timing before changing nozzles, but it ran beautifully when i got it for this project.... I bled the lines by loosening them where the hard line connects to the injector and cranked the motor without the glow plugs hooked up to pump fuel through them. I used the hand primer and pumped until fuel went through the return lines backwards like an old skidsteer.... Fuel does leak around the fourth injector and was the only injector that squirted and didnt ooze when bleeding. I figured one injector shouldnt be the reason it doesnt even want to start.... I have a video of me cranking the motor after bleeding and it goes for 40 seconds of pure cranking, lots of smoke... Ill see if i can upload it somehow... still new here

Youtube is great and easy to use.

On that fourth injector leaking, where is it leaking from? From the hard line, from the connection between the upper and lower injector pieces, from the socket where the injector screws into? What do you mean by "squirted and didn't ooze when bleeding"?

Did you hook the glow plugs back up, and is your battery still cranking strongly after bleeding? Marginal compression from who knows when valves were adjusted + no glow plugs and/or slow cranking speed could give you exactly what you're describing.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

Injector Leaks from socket where injector screws in I believe. And as far as squirting vs Ooze, the squirt seams more pressurized while the ooze goes at their own pace... Glow plugs were hooked up everytime for cranking over, battery jumper/charger was hooked up...

How long since the last time the car started and ran?

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Only bought the motor, guy started it for me when I bought it in March 2016

Here is Video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiILMrX92r8

There are spring heights which need adjusted by adding and removing shims from between them and the injector body inside each injector. Those springs hold the injector closed until the pressure builds to a point where the pressure overcomes the springs and forced itself through the nozzle.

Each nozzle must have a customized spring height to pop under the right pressure. Replacing nozzles without pop testing them is a hit or miss project. Ken is a turd for selling those without instructions. He did that for years and put a lot of (DYIer) do it yourselfers in a pickle over the years selling stuff that people can't install without his 'special,' instruction books and tapes.

Remove the injectors and send them to Greazzer. He lives in Cootlumbia, SC and will balance them according to specifications and get them back to you as soon as possible. He is our resident rebuilder for injectors.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/greazzer.html

If you want to go it on your own I may be able to help you if you live in the upstate of South Carolina. I'm in Greenville, SC. If not then search this forum for instruction on what you'll need and how to use it.

Start here: DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Best of luck and if you break those injectors down again I challenge you to keep them too clean.

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84 300SD
85 380SE
83 528e
95 318ic

Vince Walden how to rebuild IDI Injectors.
vincewaldon.com - HOW-TO: Rebuild Diesel IDI Injectors

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel