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  #1  
Old 06-18-2017, 04:28 PM
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W123 300D Brakes

Help!

I had a stuck caliper on the front left. It was making a grinding noise when I applied the brakes as the inner pad was down to nil. I put on a new caliper, new pads, bled it out, etc.

Now, I get back in it and I have to put the pedal practically to the floor to get it to stop and it STILL makes the grinding sound.

Any ideas?

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  #2  
Old 06-18-2017, 04:42 PM
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You still have an air bubble. Try bleeding both front brakes.
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  #3  
Old 06-18-2017, 05:20 PM
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Front rotors are very inexpensive, should do them as a set L+R with the pads. The noise/grinding may just be the new pads being ground down to match the previous gouges in the old rotor. Then bleed.
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  #4  
Old 06-18-2017, 06:07 PM
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Mxfrank, you were right on it. The OTHER caliper is not letting fluid flow through, so, it's as though it's got air in it. Ordered a new caliper for that side, too. Go ahead and throw fruit at me. I should have known to do them both at once anyway. Trying to save some money... grrrrrr.
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  #5  
Old 06-19-2017, 02:07 AM
dkr dkr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elcaBob View Post
Mxfrank, you were right on it. The OTHER caliper is not letting fluid flow through, so, it's as though it's got air in it. Ordered a new caliper for that side, too. Go ahead and throw fruit at me. I should have known to do them both at once anyway. Trying to save some money... grrrrrr.
FYI... the brake hoses rot from the inside out. If you think you have bad calipers, you may just need $20 in replacement hoses and to re-bleed the system. Also, if you replace just one caliper you will get uneven wear on the new pads.

Dkr.
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  #6  
Old 06-19-2017, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elcaBob View Post
Help!

I had a stuck caliper on the front left. It was making a grinding noise when I applied the brakes as the inner pad was down to nil. I put on a new caliper, new pads, bled it out, etc.

Now, I get back in it and I have to put the pedal practically to the floor to get it to stop and it STILL makes the grinding sound.

Any ideas?
Did you do both left and right fronts?

Grinding can also come from bad wheel bearing.

While you are in the Car driving it is often difficult to pinpoint where sound is coming from. What about the rear Brakes?
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  #7  
Old 06-21-2017, 05:13 PM
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OK, update. Got the caliper replaced on both sides... but, the right side is not receiving any fluid. loosened the nuts at the source near the master cylinder and only one of the three is squirting any fluid. Does that mean teh entire master cylinder is gone?
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  #8  
Old 06-21-2017, 08:35 PM
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Update #2. Replacing the master cylinder seems to have cleared up the no flow of fluid. About to test drive.
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  #9  
Old 06-21-2017, 09:18 PM
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Replaced master cylinder, bled, drove and Klaus-Jurgen is back on the road! Thanks, all!
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  #10  
Old 06-21-2017, 09:26 PM
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Good deal. A lot of times we get no follow-up and it is especially important for future posters to see what happened - successful or not. Thanks for the report.
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  #11  
Old 06-22-2017, 11:55 PM
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Thanks for the follow-ups. I am guessing the old fluid was rusty, which caused the port to plug. Insure the rubber test caps on the reservoir aren't cracked. New ones are cheap at PP. Normal glycol brake fluid can absorb moisture from the atmosphere, so all must be air-tight.
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  #12  
Old 06-23-2017, 07:53 AM
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I believe normal wear of the rubber seals makes fine rubber dust and permeates the fluid. When your brake fluid looks black folks, change it and purge your lines until clear.
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  #13  
Old 06-24-2017, 09:59 PM
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I do have an update. Aince i changed the above parts, my alignment is way off. Ok, thats understandable. But the steering is way loose. I dont even know where to start on that.
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  #14  
Old 06-25-2017, 07:46 AM
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If you jack up the front end, all the joints are visible and accessible. With the car on jackstands, you can find which ones are loose. Tie rods, drag links and upper ball joints are easy, the guide bars are not bad, the lower ball joints and bushings are not easy.

If the joint is tight and the boot is cracked and torn, it is easier to replace the boot on the LBJ than the LBJ itself.

The steering box can be loose too. There are threads on this.
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  #15  
Old 06-25-2017, 05:40 PM
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Search on how to refurbish front end, replace ball joints, replace lower & upper control arm, replace guide rod mount. There is lots of information but it is scattered. Look in the DIY section (126 & 123) here too.

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