Interchangability of parts question
 

My daughter's 1987 300SDL (w126) was in an accident the other day, where she rear ended another car (she's fine).
The damage to her car was to the driver side headlamp area. Heavy damage to the headlamp, hood, grill, radiator and the cross brace that goes across the top of the headlamps/radiator.
The bumper and the fenders were untouched. So, structurally it appears fine.
There's a 1984 300sd (W126) for sale nearby for $700.
Does anyone know if the 1984 parts, described above, are 100% interchangeable with the 1987?
I may attempt to repair this if I can get all of the parts I need at one time and not have to spend half my life buying a piece here and there, waiting for parts to arrive.
I'd post a photo but every time I try, I always have issues.
Anyway, thanks in advance.

Link to photo
 

I believe probably most will interchange. I'd take a close look at both cars and try to determine all that is different.

I can't even take measurements. The two most important pieces are the hood and the "crossmember" and mine are mangled.
I don't want to take the step of buying a parts car and the major parts are off a bit.

Headlamps, radiator, and crossbrace are different. Hood and grille should be the same.

Radiator is specific to the 300SDL/350SDL only and have been out of production since 2010. Prepare to be patient and have deep pockets to find a used one.

Thanks Diseasel 300.

Not doubting, but why would the core support ("cross brace") be different?
If the hood, grille, and core support are brought over from the parts car, they should work. Agreed that the radiator is different. The oil cooler for the 5 cyl is next to the narrower radiator, the 6 cyl radiator takes up the entire space. I was able to source an all aluminum rad for my 350SDL, but they may not be available anymore. Also, if the rest of the donor car is intact, I would hesitate to turn it into a parts car. I would look for a car that is already a parts car to cut the core support out of. However, if the car is rusted out and destined to be a parts donor anyway, have at it! Just my opinion though......Rich

It's too bad for you that you're in the far end of the country. I have an 84 300SD from which I have removed the engine transmission and the glow wiring, dash/interior and such small stuff as window motor-regulator assemblies. The rest is up for a non-aggressive sale. I'm thinking 50 bucks for hood, trunk lid, fenders, doors etc.

The hood is the same on the newer sedans and so are the front doors. Bumpers, grills, headlights, though I've no experience with headlight wiring but the FSM would reveal problems with that. I have a dash from an 86 in my 84 so the width is correct. As for the cross members I'd bet they are identical.

The only difference between the early and late models that I can tell is the length of the body which shows up in the length of the rear doors. There is some superficial interior changes and some of the systems are different.

Thanks for everyone's opinion/comments.
Another question, the core support - cross brace, is it welded in or bolted?
It kind of looks like it's bolted in. Does anyone know for sure?
Thanks again.

Lemme know if you need headlight assembly.

Because there is a large difference between the first and second generation W126 radiator support, crossmember, etc. I found this out when I went to install first generation Euro sedan wiper motors on a second generation sedan body--they didn't fit--too shallow by about an inch and offset by about an inch.

I'm honestly surprised anyone else here knew this because I had been asking on this and other forums why the wiper motors didn't fit and no one knew or could confirm any differences in the body between first and second generation.

I had almost the same damage to my SDL about a year ago, and know exactly what you will be going through. The entire core support is spot welded. Replacing it usually requires cutting further back into the donor car, and drilling out the spot welds to remove the unwanted parts. The damaged car needs the spot welds drilled, and the bent part removed. You will probably need to remove both fenders to gain access to the spot welds on the ends (under the fender flanges) of the core support. If you are lucky you won't need the services of a frame rack to pull any sheet metal into place. The new part can be "button" welded at each factory spot weld with just a flux core welder. Be sure to grind off all the paint on both pieces where the welds are, before welding.

There were far more 1986-1991 126 Gen II & Gen III vehicles sold in the US than the 1979-1985 126 Gen I vehicles - 343K vs. 278K

Considering the attrition rate over those years I suspect Gen II & Gen III carcasses would be more prevalent still today and therefore more available. It probably might makes more sense to find and make use of parts from the same generation vehicle than to try and make parts that are close but not exactly the same work from a time/cost perspective.

Here on the east coast late 126 cars are still pretty plentiful in the boneyards I frequent, earlier 1980's models are less frequent for sure.

You might check around at the various towing companies in your area, lot's of times they tow junks for scrapping they will sell for the scrape price. Might make a difference where you are located in NE?

Follow up
 

Well, I got my answer - I'm not going to start getting into cutting, welding and such.

Looking at the damage, I was going back and forth - I will, I won't, I can't.

Well, I came to the conclusion, I won't.

If it was a matter of pulling the parts and replacing them, I was thinking, maybe/probably.

But once I realized I have to start cutting and welding and so on...it's just not worth it. It's a shame, I love these cars but sometimes you just have to measure how much time is involved and how much it's worth.

Once again, thanks to everyone for their time and responses. I love this forum!!

I would have taken it off your hand had you been nearer. The car is definitely fixable without too much work. The fenders are not damaged so the frame was not pushed in that far. It's a shame to part it out. At least take the hood, radiator, condenser, lights out. Take a look and attempt to pull the top frame out. This was what I did with almost identical damage. I pulled it out with some home made leveraging setup.