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617 Nipple at Upper Oil Pan
'83 300TD (purchased and resided in CA entire life) I decided to tackle what I assume is a leak at my turbo drain tube. When I ripped into the engine I found an unconnected nipple at the upper oil pan between the turbo train tube and what I though is an oil separator line. That had me scarring my head, until I moved the oil separator line and realized that it's never been connected. Before I tear into the god forsaken turbo drain tube, could this be the source for the oil leak?
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#2
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Quote:
The separator tube should be secured by a one-bolt clamp down under the turbo. Those bolts tend to vibrate loose and the pipe shakes off the nipple.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. Last edited by tangofox007; 07-30-2017 at 04:19 PM. |
#3
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That's right. My separator tube was loose with no connections. Well I'm off to replacing the o rings. That o ring at the bottom is a real PITA to get to.
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#4
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Was the clamp still on the tube? If so, all you need is a bolt and self-locking nut. I used an aircraft-quality stop nut and have had any trouble with it since.
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. |
#5
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I remember having to go pretty deep to get the tube bolted back. I don't remember the details but it was in the process of stopping all of the leaks.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#6
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That Drain Tube from the Air Filter housing has either a welded tab somewhere in the middle of the Tube or has a clamp. Both attach behind a metal strap below the Turbo.
The tube can come loose from the clamp or the welded on metal tab breakes off (sometimes leaving a hole in the tube). Both ends of the tube have to have a nipple with an O-ring inserted into them and that clamp in the middle secured in order for it to stay in place. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/280787-turbo-drain-blow-drain-seal-replacement%3B-mein-kampf.html
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#7
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Changed out the o-rings and secured the tube with a clamp, since original welded connection broke. 617 really makes the filter shake at idle, so I am not surprised that it failed and shook the pipe loose. Well, seems like the turbo drain is still leaking - I guess I am not done. Is there any reward in trying to plug the leaks on these engines?
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#8
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You might want to research "rack idle pin adjustment."
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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl. Last edited by tangofox007; 07-31-2017 at 10:49 AM. |
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Quote:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#10
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Leaks Weeps & Seeps
" Is there any reward in trying to plug the leaks on these engines? ".
Most certainly so ! .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#11
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No reason the turbo drain tube would inherently leak. You can replace the gasket, O-ring, and rubber bushing where it enters the upper oil pan. Parts are cheap and many posts w/ photos. Can't expect 34 yr old rubber and gaskets to still be good on any car. I recall using an HBNR (green) O-ring, but would have used Viton if one that size was in my kit. The factory used cheaper Nitrile (Buna-N). No reason to have to go thru auto parts suppliers to get an O-ring (ditto for bearings), but many keep whining "can't get".
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
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