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#1
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fuel leak by pump
hey ya'll, my car stalled out, i changed the fuel filter, it was pretty dirty, i pumped the primer before starting, and then it's running again. but, there's a fuel leak from or just below that primer pump. it only leaks while the engine is running...
1) what's the next step??? 2) do you always change the larger screw on filter every time you change the little clear plastic one? 3) should i be worried about why the fuel filter got so much gunk in it? i'm nog running bio anymore, just regular petro diesel. thaaanks.
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w123 1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present 1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present looking for biodiesel in nyc |
#2
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Quote:
Quote:
How long was that filter in use? Did you change it after you switched back to #2 ULSD, or is this the first change?
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#3
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Be sure to remove the old copper crush washer if you remove the old hand primer.
Note that there is Fuel Supply/Lift Pump rebuild kits that have all of the copper crush washers and new valves for the inside. The generic versions used to be about $17 and that included the shipping cost. The real Bosch kits are in the $25-$30 range.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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Yo dude, why tell us what car u got? If older white plastic primer pump, replace it. Cheap, many posts.
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#5
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hey,
i thought the car was in my signature, it's a 1985 300D turbo diesel sedan, w123, by new bosch kit, you mean new bosch primer pump? i've been back on the petro diesel for a few months now, and hadn't changed the filters after stopping bio i went thru the switching filters after starting bio, but didn't realize it was expected to need change again after, especially considering people blend all sorts of ratios of bio to petro. if it's not necessary to change the screw on filter, i don't like to do what's not necessary, or just doesn't hurt to do. i'll look into changing the primer pump, it looks hard to reach, but do you just need to unscrew it from above? thanks!
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w123 1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present 1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present looking for biodiesel in nyc |
#6
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pelican parts has the
genuine mercedes $31.25 bosch $15.50 febi bilstein brand $9.50 since you guys defaulted to mentioning the bosch, is that better than the genuine mercedes part?
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w123 1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present 1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present looking for biodiesel in nyc |
#7
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I would go with the Bosch. The old style primer pump can be removed with a vise grip type pliers, and the new pump takes a 17mm. A crows foot works best, as there is not much room to swing the shortest of wrenches.
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#8
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The problem with the old style hand primers is that the body is made of thin soft Aluminum. When you get a wrench on the flats and start to turn they most often deform and strip around the flats.
Due to the close quarters some people use a Basin Wrench (plumbing). You or one of your neighbors may already have one. The also make a Basin Wrench head that goes on socket extensions. Be sure to get the correct new type hand primer because the look similar but have different threaded ends.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#9
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Sorry, I was/am viewing on a phone, where page doesn't show signature.
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#10
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it seems the leak has stopped now, maybe it was just backed up due to the clogged filter.
thanks
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w123 1985 300D turbo sept 2015 - present 1985 300TD turbo oct 2023 - present looking for biodiesel in nyc |
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