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  #1  
Old 09-02-2017, 05:36 PM
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Front damper bolts

I have tried various wrenches and sockets and not enough clearance between the damper eyelet and the bolt. Anyone ever come across a spline and if so, what tool?

Thank y'all in advance!

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1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

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  #2  
Old 09-02-2017, 08:17 PM
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I found a thin-wall socket at Northern Tool and ground flats on it so I could turn it with an open-end wrench.
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  #3  
Old 09-02-2017, 11:22 PM
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Do you get more clearance if the wheels are unweighted hanging down? How about turning the wheels to one side?
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Old 09-03-2017, 06:25 AM
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I'm assuming w123? I just did this job on my car. It's not a spline socket, just a 12 point socket. I removed the top nut and used a ratchet strap to compress the shock, then you can swing it to the side and remove the lower bolts.

To install the new one I played the same game with the ratchet straps to get it in place. I was going to take pictures of the process, but had my right arm in a sling... At least that shows it shouldn't be too hard a job.
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Old 09-03-2017, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocky raccoon View Post
I found a thin-wall socket at Northern Tool and ground flats on it so I could turn it with an open-end wrench.
Thank you! Will look into that, their brand, right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post
Do you get more clearance if the wheels are unweighted hanging down? How about turning the wheels to one side?
Thank you for the help!

Big issue is the driveline is out, plus the spindles off. Tried jacking, but not really any help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisgt View Post
I'm assuming w123? I just did this job on my car. It's not a spline socket, just a 12 point socket. I removed the top nut and used a ratchet strap to compress the shock, then you can swing it to the side and remove the lower bolts.

To install the new one I played the same game with the ratchet straps to get it in place. I was going to take pictures of the process, but had my right arm in a sling... At least that shows it shouldn't be too hard a job.
Thank you for this fantastic idea!

This would have been the ticket for one side. But, didn't get it in time... Though, might work for something else or in the future or the other side where the top broke off (almost taking out my man parts).

You were very lucky and had original Mercedes hex bolts. Look in the paper F.S.M. and you will see them. However, Bilstein uses a 12 point spline like the flywheel bolts. However, found unlike hex heads, you can use pliers and grab one spine at a time and turn out a bolt where on a hex you need more room and only have six or 12 flats. What think be the best is hex socket bolt, as can come in from the top and not the difficult sides.
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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
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  #6  
Old 09-03-2017, 11:38 AM
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The bolts are a 12-point, not splined. The W126 uses the same bolts for the same purpose. They're nothing special, they just require a standard 12 point socket. You can pick one up in the hardware dept of Home Depot for like $2. No need to reinvent the wheel or seek specialty tools.
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  #7  
Old 09-03-2017, 11:48 AM
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The Bilsteins may be splined. I put Sachs on my car which were 12pt. The thin wall socket was a 12pt.
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  #8  
Old 09-03-2017, 11:49 AM
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Bilsteins are 12 point as well. Just did the job in January.
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  #9  
Old 09-03-2017, 01:59 PM
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Who cares if spline or hex, it is a bolt that comes out with a 12 point socket.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
The bolts are a 12-point, not splined. The W126 uses the same bolts for the same purpose. They're nothing special, they just require a standard 12 point socket. You can pick one up in the hardware dept of Home Depot for like $2. No need to reinvent the wheel or seek specialty tools.
Thank you for the help!

Trouble is my 3/8" sockets are six point. As I said, I tried sockets (6 and 12) and wrenches (open, boxed 12 standard and offset), and all would not go on due to the clearance between the damper eyelet and the bolt. Same issue on the '79, but not as bad (had Japanese dampers).

So I quit looking for a special tool and went looking for my reciprocating saw. Then had the idea that worked.

However, thanks to Rocky Raccoon, chrisgt, and you, well equipped to go after the other side.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
Bilsteins are 12 point as well. Just did the job in January.
Odd, as what I have on three vehicals here and what Tram has seen are splines. Fun seeing these differences that happen over years of various owners and mechanics.

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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
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