Window switches problem
 

So, all of a sudden my passenger window won't go down. I recently replaced the console trim, so I feel like it must somehow be related to that - that particular switch was making poor contact, so I had to press down a little bit on the wood trim, which worked intermittently, but now is no help at all.

I've swapped the driver's-side and passenger-side switches - both work in the driver's-side position, so it's not the switch. When I depress the switch, I do hear sort of a click, like a relay going off, but no movement. Could it be a motor or regulator problem? It just seems way too coincidental for something in the door to fail right after I was messing with the switches.

Thoughts?

Another thing, does anyone know how to release the bottom halves of the switchgear from the black plastic panel underneath the wood trim, like in this picture: http://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W124/131-INTERIOR-Window_Switch_Replacement/images_small/pic04.jpg

I didn't think it was possible, until I saw that picture, but I can't seem to remove the lower halves. But, I'm also trying not to force it too much and break anything.

They just unplug, but there is probably a bit of corrosion if they haven't been unplugged in the past 25 years.

A little spritz of electric contact cleaner on the wires on the back of the plugs will make it easier to unplug the connectors from the switches.

Grasp the top and bottom of the switch (on the unfinished side of the console panel) with one hand.
Then grasp the top and bottom of the plug with your other hand and gently rock the plug top to bottom while tugging at it.
It may be a little stiff at first, but they do eventually unplug.

On the DS window switches, I find it is easiest to first remove the central child lockout plug by rocking it side to side, before unplugging the DS front and DS rear window switches.

Maybe I'm not understanding you - I know how to separate the upper male half of the switch from the lower female half. I'm asking if the lower female halves comes loose from the plastic panel that they all look snapped into. Is that what you're talking about, too?

Ah, I think I misunderstood your original question.

I believe you want to know how to remove the switches from the wood panel without damaging the panel.

1) From underneath, squeeze one (either top or bottom) of the integral metal spring steel clips flat with your finger or a blunt key.
You may have plastic prongs rather than spring metal clips on your switches
Avoid using a screwdriver as you may shear off the locking tab in the wood panel if the tool slips.

2) Simultaneously, gently push the same (top or bottom) pin side of the switch up to release the switch fom the locking tab of the wood panel.

Repeat step 1) and 2) on the other side of the switch.

Once the top and bottom of the switch are released from the locking tabs you can push the switch up and out of the wood panel.

No, I'm sorry, that's not what I mean.

Okay, picture this: you remove the wood panel, and the upper half of the switches are clipped into the trim piece. You look underneath, and the lower half of the switches are clipped into a plastic housing like this:


Anyway to get the lower switch halves out of this plastic housing, without breaking anything?

Also, does anyone have any ideas about the sudden loss of window function?

Thanks.

It's about the same process as described above (that was for a 123), on a 124 the switches are clipped into the plastic frame, and release from below in a similar manner. There are release tabs that need to be pushed in and then the switch pops out of the frame.

Your 1992 W124 has the convenience control system with the express down feature. Unlike all prior models, where the switches in the console directly switch the motor current, the switches in the console just send low current voltage signals to the convenience control module located under the left rear passenger seat. This module actually does all the switching of the four window motors.

If you look at the long ends of the switch where they push through the plastic crib, you'll see a tab on both ends, one will be longer than the other. Use something skinny but sturdy like a paring knife and pry gently on the long end (usually towards the top of the panel) while also pressing on the switch. It'll just lever out.

Did you have the switches out to swap driver/passenger in your test above? Can you elaborate on what you did and what the results were?

Got it!, I 'm familiar with the W116, W123 and W126 consoles...I hadn't seen that style before.
The photo really helped!

From the photo it looks like you need to wedge a small screwdriver or plastic bone tool between the side of the plug-in connector and the outer "ear" on the plug holder.
This should allow you to free the plug-in connector from the plug holder.

As to why the the PS window function failed...possibly frayed wiring near flexure point in PS door, bent regulator, siezed window motor, loose/corroded pin receptacle (female side) of console PS window switch connector.

I'm leaning toward the last option, as you had intermittent operation of the PS window when you pressed harder on the PS switch.
You should be able to open the plastic body of the plug-in connector and remove the wires (take a photo of wire locations beforehand to aid in reassembly).
Lightly, gently crimp each female connector so it will have better contact with the male pin when the connection is renewed.

Hope this solves your loss of PS window function.

Thanks all for the info. Oddly enough, about halfway through my commute this morning I decided to try the window again. The first time I got the relay clicking noise, and then all of a sudden it worked. Auto down, up, repeated several times, worked every time.




So the release tabs are on the tops side, and then push up from the bottom? Or vice versa?



That explains why I heard the relay clicking back there. Sounded like it was coming from the same place as the heated seat relay, which was clicking until I had everything hooked up and fused properly.


Yes, I switched switches L to R, and the R side continued to be inop. Bothe switches worked on the L side.


Thanks! If I can free the switches from the plastic frame I'll definitely have a look at the pins...at least clean them up. I've already taken apart several of this style of pin connector on various places throughout the car.

Ok, so how's this for weird? I get back in the car to drive home and the passenger side window is no longer working (again). Just relay clicking noise. About 2-3 miles into the drive, I tray again - and it works! WTH? I've never heard of a switch having to "warm up" before. Make me think it really must be something to do with the contacts. Will dig in when I get some time.

I'd suspect contact problems as well. Either in the plug or somewhere in the wiring. Driving the vehicle causes vibrations that can make an "iffy" connection work again. Could also be questionable solder joints in your "convenience module" wherever it may be.

most likely. backseat left side. remove the bench you'll see it. on the other side is a vacuum pump for the door locks etc

Windows have all worked for the last week and a half, and then all of a sudden the passenger window stopped working again. The switch is plugged in all the way, so I don't think the issue is there, even though I was messing with the switch right before the first time this happened. Now that I think about it, I also pretty recently messed with the convenience module - I had to move it in order to install the heated seat relay, which fits underneath.

I read somewhere to test the convenience relay by holding the key in the locked position, and that all open windows/sunroof should close (I didn't even know I had this feature!). So I tried it - driver's side goes up, nothing happens with the passenger side. Supposedly this is a completely different circuit than the switch, so it eliminates the switch as the problem (I guess). Obviously the relay isn't toast, because some of the windows work - are there individual solder joints to each window? Are they repairable with a solder gun (I assume yes)?

Time to check motor connections I think.