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#1
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What is the most quick and dirty way to get a crankshaft from the junk yard?
I need a crankshaft for a OM603 engine. How can I get it from underneath the car in the junk yard? I am thinking of cutting the cross member, hammer the engine bottom pan, hammer the engine face plate, cut the timing chain, basically just cut or hammer anything in the way. Then undo the rod and main bearings to get it out. How is the rear end mate to the transmission? Can I hammer my way there also? Basically I want a quick and dirty job. Anyone has done it before? Any info is appreciated.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#2
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I'd prolly pay the yard to pull it and do it with the engine out. I'd have trouble destroying an engine just for the crank.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#3
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The rear of the crank has the flexplate/flywheel bolted to it which in turn is connected to that big torque converter which is piloted into the pump and input shaft of the transmission and then you have the main seal carrier which is bolted to the block.
so unless your hammer is a gas axe or something from a mineshaft, best would be to drop the powerpack, undo trans, undo the pans, cut the chains, undo the rods and mains and other bits and take it out. It will be a really sweaty and cussing task any way you cut it.
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2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model) 1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017) 2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017) |
#4
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That'd be an extreme waste of the engine for someone else who could use the parts. Easiest way is to pull the motor and take it apart. Not all too hard.
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Only diesels in this driveway. 2005 E320 CDI 243k Black/Black 2008 Chevy 3500HD Duramax 340k 2004 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 220k |
#5
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Everything is butchered up at the junk yard anyway. So I would have no 2nd thought about crash and burn method to get the part. I forgot the rear of the engine. So now is back to square 1. The alternative is to get a short block. I will take my time to locate what I wanted. Thanks.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#6
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It's a tough one. Much of that stuff goes to the smelter unused anyway. I struggle with how hard to butcher carcasses at the bone yard.
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1986 300SDL, 362K 1984 300D, 138K |
#7
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I've got 2 603 short blocks sitting in the garage. A 3.0 and a 3.5.
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO |
#8
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surely someone has a crank out of the engine to sell.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#9
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You need a hammer with a really long handle and a 27mm socket at one end to remove the crank pulley flange.
Sixto 98 E320s sedan and wagon |
#10
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I would buy the whole engine and sell off the extra parts, or store if you have room. Up here, PicNPull has half off days, but San Diego has Ecology which is fussier. But all junkyards nickle and dime on every engine accessory. If you have time, better to luck into a craigslister selling a complete engine, or even car. I bought one w/ starter and other valuables for $300 and it ended up being great (>400 psig all cyl). Before that, I bought a 1984 car for $400 to get the engine, but ended up fixing that car.
I don't worry about smash and grab at yards. Next time I visit, that car was long since crushed. But, I do close hoods and doors to minimize rain damage.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's 1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport 1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans |
#11
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Alot of places require you to take the whole engine and not dissassemble any parts from its internals.Ask before you do all this work ,they can refuse purchase ,they put a warrenty on the engine and if you pull the motor apart and find a bad crank they will refund the money ,you then get to bring the whole motor back ,alot of extras that come with saving a few bucks ,mostly a waste of time .
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