Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 09-18-2017, 10:26 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 312
OM606 head machining info

So i have my head removed and at work. I just so happen to have access to an r&d department with several journeyman tool and die makers. Unfortunately none of them have done engine work. I would like to skim the head .002 thou. But im not sure if i would remove material around the valve area or only around the chambers. Head is currently sitting on my bench with layout dye. Going to stone the surface and remeasure to get a better idea.

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-18-2017, 10:32 AM
Diesel Preferred
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,788
Don't do it, unless it is REALLY not flat. Aluminum heads will flex a little when you torque them down. Read the factory service manual. A certain amount of out-of-flat is allowed. If you take off any material, you have to take off the amount specified in the manual and use the thicker "repair" head gasket. If you remove material but don't use the thicker gasket, you will have at least two problems. The pre-chamber nozzles may contact the pistons. The timing chain will be effectively longer, and cause problems with valve timing and injection pump timing. You can correct the valve timing with an offset key IF they are available. IP timing is adjustable.
__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-18-2017, 10:35 AM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
You should check the head to see if it is flat across the entire surface. Most machine shops have a precision ground straightedge that is used with feeler gauges. .002 may not be enough to make the head flat. The head surface laying on a stone table (not exactly sure of the exact name) will work too, using feeler gauges around the edges. The straightedge is better for measuring the center between combustion chambers.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-18-2017, 12:04 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 51,250
Sounds like a close reading of the factory service manual is what is needed.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-18-2017, 01:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 312
I don't have the manual, only what is on w124 performance site. I tried buying some tek star time but keep getting an error with a known good card. So we setup the head using some GDT. Geometric dimensional tolerance. The head has a .010 thou bow in the middle. I will check after work what the parallelism is between top and bottom. Perhaps the head is flat but slight curved, which will be remedied by being bolted down.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-18-2017, 01:56 PM
Diseasel300's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 6,032
There's a reason why so many folks suggested getting a copy of the FSM before touching that first bolt.
__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 149K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 120K (SLoL)

Black Sheep:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 09-18-2017, 02:40 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by diesellover 92 View Post
........... Perhaps the head is flat but slight curved, which will be remedied by being bolted down.
It needs to be flat and not "curved" BEFORE it is bolted down. If the head is sitting on a precision flat surface, and there is a gap on opposite corners, or a gap in the middle with both ends tight on the surface, (I assume that is what you mean by "curved"), it will need to be machined flat BEFORE it is bolted to a block.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-18-2017, 03:30 PM
spock505's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Blighty
Posts: 1,388
The metal MB sandwich gaskets are pretty chunky, wouldn't have thought that sort of distortion would matter.
__________________
David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-18-2017, 05:34 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 312
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diseasel300 View Post
There's a reason why so many folks suggested getting a copy of the FSM before touching that first bolt.
Yeah and I tried to get one. It's not a big deal, I picked up this car for cheap. Worst case scenario I wait until I get a used motor. Feel free to send me a pdf if you have one. Haven't decided, might skim it and put the stock gasket on and see how it runs or I'll put a new gasket and see how it runs. Based on the vmi, first head gasket was done at 95k. Had the timing chain done at 150k along with the second gasket, rebuilt injectors, trans service and a.c. compressor replaced. Guy I bought it from paid 4100 a few months ago at 190k. Now at 195k head gasket went.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-18-2017, 05:38 PM
spock505's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Blighty
Posts: 1,388
Could be the garage re-used the stretch bolts, this can be done but need to be in spec, wouldn't use them a third time however.
__________________
David


1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project -

1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle)
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 09-18-2017, 05:41 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
ROLLGUY
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by diesellover 92 View Post
Yeah and I tried to get one. It's not a big deal, I picked up this car for cheap. Worst case scenario I wait until I get a used motor. Feel free to send me a pdf if you have one. Haven't decided, might skim it and put the stock gasket on and see how it runs or I'll put a new gasket and see how it runs. Based on the vmi, first head gasket was done at 95k. Had the timing chain done at 150k along with the second gasket, rebuilt injectors, trans service and a.c. compressor replaced. Guy I bought it from paid 4100 a few months ago at 190k. Now at 195k head gasket went.
Sounds like a substandard head job last time (they might not have surfaced the head, and/or used the head bolts over). You can also get thicker prechamber seals. Measure the seals that came out, and compare to the thickness of stock and oversize. Yes they will compress a little, so your measurement may not be exactly the same as a new one.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-18-2017, 06:00 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 312
I am also not to keen at spending much on this engine due to the amount of sludge i found when i pulled the valve cover. It did start up instantly and idled smooth with nice cloud of smoke, but i would not consider the substance lubricating the engine "oil". Cam journals did not look bad, not heat damage or scoring so maybe its find but who knows.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-18-2017, 06:34 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,534
Specifically where and how did the head gasket fail?

With a cam in head engine, the cam bore will be warped also. Some automotive machine shops will measure the amount of bow, place shims on each end of the deck then bolt the head to a flat surface. The whole mess is then baked in an oven to pull the head back flat, at this point it only needs a slight cut to clean the surface.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-18-2017, 06:47 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 312
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
Specifically where and how did the head gasket fail?

With a cam in head engine, the cam bore will be warped also. Some automotive machine shops will measure the amount of bow, place shims on each end of the deck then bolt the head to a flat surface. The whole mess is then baked in an oven to pull the head back flat, at this point it only needs a slight cut to clean the surface.

Couldn't tell you, bought it blown. Guy was early 20s. He said that he added coolant a few times when the light came before he realized where it was going. Then parked it at the random shopping center he was at 15 mins from his house. I will never know how hard he beat on it,
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-18-2017, 07:48 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,534
What I'm asking is did you look at the actual gasket to determine point of failure?

Many people call any loss of coolant a blown head gasket / cracked block.

When making any repair, it is critical to determine the exact point of failure in order to make a lasting repair.

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:02 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page