300SDL axle shaft removal.
 

I saw a write up based on generation 1 w126 rear suspension based cars, but couldn't find a write up on generation 2 1986 + suspension/driveline based cars.

What are the differences I need to know? You WILL NOT offend me by giving me "obvious" information. I have no clue how to do this so every bit of information helps.


In short, what are the differences in procedure on the 300SDL from this write up.


PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Axles


Thanks

Ttt

Patience, jack, patience.

A couple of pictures of the differential in your car will be helpful; the inboard CV joints may be of a different type, and hence the removal would be different.

I only have axle shaft photos at the moment.
Inboard of cv

https://www.flickr.com/gp/133071441@N02/w9Da08

Outboard of cv

https://www.flickr.com/gp/133071441@N02/7Ns5LX

Note that the inboard CV joint is attached to the differential stub shaft with six bolts. When those bolts are removed the CV joint can be separated from the flange of the stub shaft. The differential cover is not removed, and the stub shafts stay in place. The bolts that retain the CV joint require a triple-square (aka, XZN) driver to remove. The driver may be either 10mm or 12mm (probably 10). They ARE NOT hex sockets (aka, Allen).

A single bolt retains the splined outboard stub shaft in the wheel hub. When that is removed the axle assembly can then be withdrawn to the inside.

Does he need Loctite on the threads when he re-installs the bolts?

I appreciate your post Frank.
So I can essentially remove the axle without dropping the differential cover...great!

My axle makes noise, (but boots are not torn). So I wonder if I can still reboot them. I've read where some say it's still possible, while many others say you're better off buying an entirely new axle unit.
I presume I'll finally have the answer when I go to remove and inspect both axles for "clunkiness" soon. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the joints should move around freely without being forced to "clunk" to a different position. Also there should be very little, if any play with respect to torsion on the shaft of the axle.
If one or both of the inspections are found to be a failure, then a new axle unit will have to be ordered straight from the dealer.
And even if only one axle is bad, with regards to the mileage my car has, it would be a really good idea to reboot the (so far) good axle VERY SOON.

What are brands I can trust to purchase when I need the tool to reboot my axles? I'm looking for manual axle pliers. Not sure if the ones our sponsor carries will get the job done. And if they do, I'll simply buy them used.

I believe the half shafts are the same size and that you can switch the right for left.

They haven't worn in that direction of rotation, and won't clunk... unless they were switched previously.

Switch them.
If it works, then reboot them.
If that does't work, then replace the damaged one(s) and if one of the pair is still good, reboot it.